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Did Voltage for front USB ports change w/ 50.6?

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This is a long shot and could just be coincidence. I have a wireless QI charger that I got from Amazon that I plugged into the front USB ports. It's an off-brand Kumary Wireless charger that I purchased for its slim design, rather than the name brand. I used velcro to attach it to the flip up cubby so that I could just drop my phone in. Worked great for a year.

Coincidentally, right after I upgraded to 2018.50.6, the charger will no longer initialize. It just flashes like it's starting up but won't charge. I'd post a link to the device on Amazon but it's long gone.

Strangely, I can charge my phone from the front USB ports using the same cable direct to phone. And the wireless charger works just fine outside the car, i.e., in home plugged into wall outlet with USB ports. It only doesn't work from IN the car. Haven't tried the back USB ports but not going to go there anyway.

I'm hoping that after I receive one of the 2019 builds that this will somehow (mysteriously) start working again. I don't want to buy 20 different QI charges to test.

Is it just me and my crappy off brand (but slim) Kumary Wireless charger?
 
All USB is 5 Volts.
There would never be a Software Update that would or could change it.

As far as the USB Amperage changing.
Amperage is OnDemand. If a Wireless Charger had nothing sitting on it there would be say a 100 milliamp draw. Once you put your phone on it then it could output up to the Maximum designed in the Output Stage of that Circuit. There could be things implemented to limit the Draw in Software.
 
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Amperage has changed in the last via the software. I've documented in another thread.

Would like to see this Thread.
If the Circuit outputs 2 Amp Max (don't know what the max is, just an example)
If I plug in a 5 Watt Load my Amperage would be 1 Amp.
If I plug in a 10 Watt Load my Amperage would be 2 Amps.
If I plug in a 33 Watt Load my Amperage would be 2 Amps.

The only thing in software they could possibly change if implemented in the circuit is to Raise or Lower the Maximum allowed Current (2 Amps in example above)
If your measuring Amps with an Amp Meter, you may just be looking at a Different Draw...
A 1% Phone Charging will have a Different Draw than a 95% Phone Charging, thus you'd see different results on a Meter.
Temperature will also effect this as it does on a Cold Car at a SuperCharger
 
@supratachophobia Thanks for the link. Still reviewing.

Did some additional tests. When I plug the wireless charger into the rear passenger USB ports, using the same cable, the charger works perfectly. Only the front USB ports are not working correctly with my charger. To be thorough, I tried both front ports and unplugged the USB drive that I use for TeslaCam. No charge for my wireless QI charger for now. We'll see on the next update if something mysteriously changes.
 
@supratachophobia Thanks for the link. Still reviewing.

Did some additional tests. When I plug the wireless charger into the rear passenger USB ports, using the same cable, the charger works perfectly. Only the front USB ports are not working correctly with my charger. To be thorough, I tried both front ports and unplugged the USB drive that I use for TeslaCam. No charge for my wireless QI charger for now. We'll see on the next update if something mysteriously changes.

Interesting about your Qi charger. Please note my comments in the other thread, when I tried to power my 3 coil pad with the Schoshe, it did not work, but the PNY USB charger did (2.4amp). I'm currently on an Anker 5 port x 2.4amp adapter and the Qi works with that as well. Not sure if under voltage causes the same problem for both of us, but in my case, more power seemed to do the trick even though the Schoshe was supposedly rated for 2.1amps. And as if to confuse the issue even more, the Anker still makes the Raspberry Pi throw an under-voltage lightning bolt even though the recommended AC adapter is rated at 2.1amps and the Anker claims 2.4amps per port. You'd think it would be happy with the Anker, and it is as far as functionality goes, but still throws the error.
 
Interesting about your Qi charger. Please note my comments in the other thread, when I tried to power my 3 coil pad with the Schoshe, it did not work, but the PNY USB charger did (2.4amp). I'm currently on an Anker 5 port x 2.4amp adapter and the Qi works with that as well. Not sure if under voltage causes the same problem for both of us, but in my case, more power seemed to do the trick even though the Schoshe was supposedly rated for 2.1amps. And as if to confuse the issue even more, the Anker still makes the Raspberry Pi throw an under-voltage lightning bolt even though the recommended AC adapter is rated at 2.1amps and the Anker claims 2.4amps per port. You'd think it would be happy with the Anker, and it is as far as functionality goes, but still throws the error.

Your voltage error could possibly be a current inrush issue???
The rating is typically Continuous Output. Just a thought
 
I just updated to 2018.50.6 in my 2016 Model X last night and noticed that my Qi charging pad isn't working when plugged in the front ports as well. It had been working fine for months before and works fine when plugged into 2.1A wall chargers inside the house.Spec says it requires an input of 2A and Ampere is now measuring 1.1A max. Unfortunately I didn't measure the draw pre-software update since it wasn't an issue, but something has definitely changed if we're seeing multiple instances of wireless chargers not working. I guess the fix is to get a low profile plug in adapter as suggested above.
 
I guess the fix is to get a low profile plug in adapter as suggested above.

That might work but for me there's a catch. In my case, I had the QI Charger velcro'd against the flip up door of the cubby. When I get into the car, flip open the cubby door and drop the phone into that area so that it's sitting upright against the charger.

With the low profile cigarette adapters, there is a cover on that plug port that flips up. In the flipped up position, i believe it prevents the cubby door from closing properly. So this isn't a great workaround for me. Also, none of low profile options I've looked at are "low profile enough" and still stick out a bit.

The best solution would be to put the voltage back...or whatever caused my QI to stop working. Still crossing fingers for the next update to correct this.
 
I have a cigarette adapter with quick charge 3.0. Worked fine to quick charge my Note 9 until 50.6 and now it no longer quick charges. Thought the adapter went bad so replaced the adapter and the cable but nope. Something changed in the car.