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DIY guide for cleaning/servicing parking brake?

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I own a 85D with the old 4-piston Brembo rear calipers and stand-alone parking brake.

Once or twice a year, I clean and lubricate my brakes as preventative maintenance. I would also like to do this with the parking brakes, but before doing so, I would appreciate some guidance.

Does anyone have a DIY guide for parking brake maintenance?

P.S. Not that it should matter, but I had the parking brakes (calipers/pads) replaced during the infamous "Parking Brake Needs Service" period.
 
The only maintenance I see having value is replacing the pads.
Did you want to push the pins out and lube them as well?
You have to disconnect the wire by using the tab on the harness and pulling hard. It feels like it's too hard to be the real way, but that is the way.
Then untorque the two bolts and the entire assembly is free.
You can push the pins out and lube them with the pads if you want.
 
The only maintenance I see having value is replacing the pads.
Did you want to push the pins out and lube them as well?
You have to disconnect the wire by using the tab on the harness and pulling hard. It feels like it's too hard to be the real way, but that is the way.
Then untorque the two bolts and the entire assembly is free.
You can push the pins out and lube them with the pads if you want.


Thanks. Yes I was thinking about lubing the pins and pads. Can't quite figure out how prone they are to seizing. I'm not familiar with this type of design.

With the normal brakes, I know how important it can be to clean and lube, but not sure about the parking brake. Just got a little concerned after the whole "Parking Brake Needs Service" incident.
 
I have not had it off or inspected it that closely yet but I am guessing it is not near the importance of the main caliper due to where and how it is located.

1) it is on the top of the hub so less road crud will make contact with it

2) what crud does come in the direction of the caliper has less an area to settle and deposit, and gravity helps to dislodge whatever may contact it

3) lastly the pads do not create their own residue but some of the main brake dust might be blown on it

But of course there is only one way to know for sure. You have perked my curiosity and I will inspect it when I take the winters off.
 
The problem with the parking brake is that the brake pad rusts out since it is never used with friction.
If you want to maintain it, press and hold the park button while driving 50 mph for a few seconds with no one behind you
 
Thank you for bringing this up and admitting the brakes need regular maintenance, too many here swear that is not the case.

Looking forward to the rest of the discussion so I can add it to my tire rotation checklist


Yes, they definitely need regular maintenance to avoid potential surprises later on. All conventional brakes do. Especially in cold and humid climates. Coupled with regen and little use of the brakes, it is even more important on Teslas/EVs.

Those who might think otherwise, 100% do not live in cold/wet climates and do not have basic understanding of car mechanics. Even if the brakes seem to work, they can still have started to seize and at some point in time, new calipers/pads might be needed.

My advice is to have them cleaned/lube once a year. It's a very small price for safety and to avoid paying a potentially very expensive bill in the future.
 
The problem with the parking brake is that the brake pad rusts out since it is never used with friction.
If you want to maintain it, press and hold the park button while driving 50 mph for a few seconds with no one behind you
I have not had it off or inspected it that closely yet but I am guessing it is not near the importance of the main caliper due to where and how it is located.

1) it is on the top of the hub so less road crud will make contact with it

2) what crud does come in the direction of the caliper has less an area to settle and deposit, and gravity helps to dislodge whatever may contact it

3) lastly the pads do not create their own residue but some of the main brake dust might be blown on it

But of course there is only one way to know for sure. You have perked my curiosity and I will inspect it when I take the winters off.


Makes sense. I didn't have any issues with seizing either before the widespread fault arose. This was over 2 years after I got the car and there had been no parking brake issues before then.
 
Yes, they definitely need regular maintenance to avoid potential surprises later on. All conventional brakes do. Especially in cold and humid climates. Coupled with regen and little use of the brakes, it is even more important on Teslas/EVs.

Those who might think otherwise, 100% do not live in cold/wet climates and do not have basic understanding of car mechanics. Even if the brakes seem to work, they can still have started to seize and at some point in time, new calipers/pads might be needed.

My advice is to have them cleaned/lube once a year. It's a very small price for safety and to avoid paying a potentially very expensive bill in the future.

First symtom on mine was soft brake pedal. When the pad seizes to the caliper the piston flexes the center of the pad in anyway, as the friction material wears the pad had to flex more and acts like a spring pushing the piston way back in eliminating the typical natural self adjustment of discharge brakes.

So many here will tell you EVs have nearly no maintenance just because there is no oil to change. The rest of it is still just a car.
 
Interesting, in 40 years of driving, I've never had a problem with dirty brakes and have never even heard of someone cleaning their brakes. I've never seen it in a manual as a manufacturer recommend activity.

And in most EVs, the brakes are used so much less than in other vehicles.
 
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Interesting, in 40 years of driving, I've never had a problem with dirty brakes and have never even heard of someone cleaning their brakes. I've never seen it in a manual as a manufacturer recommend activity.

And in most EVs, the brakes are used so much less than in other vehicles.

Where do you live? It is a semiannual event for me in BC with any vehicle I have owned.
 
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Interesting, in 40 years of driving, I've never had a problem with dirty brakes and have never even heard of someone cleaning their brakes. I've never seen it in a manual as a manufacturer recommend activity.

And in most EVs, the brakes are used so much less than in other vehicles.

That is exactly the point. Because the brakes are used much less, they require even more attention. To be in the best condition, brakes need to be exercised frequently. And the bigger the brake system like the 4-piston Brembos on a Model S/X, the more exercise is needed. This goes for all cars with big brakes.

It's not "dirty brakes" as you call it. It's potential rust and seizing. Cold/snowy climates can be very harsh on brakes due to water, salt, residue and lack of brakes being exercised/heated sufficiently on EVs.

One of the reasons why many people don't hear about brake cleaning/lubing, is because it is often carried out when pads need to be changed. On a Tesla however, they mostly don't need to be changed due to limited use.

Brake cleaning is one of the most basic types of maintenance and has been for decades. That you don't know about it or hasn't been done on your previous cars, doesn't make it wrong. There are many other types of maintenance that people don't know about or don't feel are necessary too. In most cases, those who fall into this category have very limited understanding of how a car works. Which is fine - just don't advise people on the subject matter.

People who fall into this category, often also do not feel when a car does not behave optimally. Partly because of their senses and interest in/knowledge of cars. I have driven many cars having issues with the suspension, brakes, steering or engine response. But the owner was oblivious to it.

The brake mechanics/dynamics (and suspension, etc) are the same on a Tesla as any other car. They should be maintained, especially in cold climates and given how little they are exercised. If not, there's a good chance you will suffer the consequences later on and Tesla will likely not cover this on warranty, even if they can be generous at times. Where I live there are quite a few Model S owners who have paid thousands of dollars for seized calipers/pads because they never/hardly use the brakes and didn't service them.

My advice (especially for those in cold/wet places):
1) service the brakes once a year. I do it myself, but otherwise it'll cost maybe 150-250 bucks if it's not included in other service. Money well spent.
2) Set it to low regen and do some heavy braking (3-4 times) at around 40-50 mph once a week. Just to exercise the brakes and wear off surface rust. Will also eliminate brake squeal.
3) Change brake fluid every 2-4 years depending on condition and brake feel.
 
I replaced both of my parking brake assemblies on my 2014 S. The pads became stuck to the pins, wore unevenly and the solenoids got really loud, I suspect as a result of pushing against a seized pad.

I suggest knocking the pins out with a punch, cleaning, wire brushing, and lubing them.

I live in MN, very harsh, salty, dirty roads in the winter.

The corrosion/build-up on the pins was a big blob and took a hammer with a flathead to remove.
 
Basic question-
how do You loosen the two screws??
Mine are pretty stuck and the location doesn't´t make it easier to apply the necessary force.

How do You do it?
WD40 and a hammer pushing a wrench?

You mean the pins? Or the caliper bolts? Pins: Yeah they are hard to get at as you have to punch them out from the inside of the car out. Opposite to the regular calipers where you hit them inwards. Mine were seized on the parking brakes. Had to buy a set of ebay; but if you remove them you can get a better more forceful hit on them. The wiring plug is difficult to disconnect also if it has not been apart and some grit has worked its way inside. I never could budge mine even with the caliper on the workbench.

As far as the bolts just a rachet and pressure with one hand and a few whacks with the other hand got them loose. About 60-70 ft-lbs was needed I would guess.
 
FWIW, there are “plastic safe” electronic cleaners that work well to clean grit out of plastic electrical connectors. I use this, since I can get it locally.

CRC QD 11 oz. Contact Cleaner-02130-6 - The Home Depot

Then, before assembly, treat all electrical connectors with deoxit shield which lubricates and protects.

DeoxIT® Shield, #SN5S-6N (Non-Flammable, NO-DRIP) - CAIG

If the connections are corroded, use their cleaning products (D5, etc) to clean before applying the shield product.

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