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Dragy times for Plaid and LR

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Did you precondition/heat the battery?
And properly launch on a good surface?
And take out the mobile charger, chad3mo adopter cat litter, laundry detergent and other flotsam from the trunk?
And turn off the AC and other prower draws?
And check your own weight?


I didn't see you on dragy but I saw this

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All the crap is out of the trunk. Not hard to blow the launch. The 3.18 above is still not 3.1. Many of the other Teslas I tested were able to hit their numbers such as the M3P and MYP when I tested them.

The sad thing is my M3 LR w/boost is just a bit slower than my S, with stuff in the trunk, car seat, and at a 70-75% charge. It wasn't even fresh off a charge and had just been sitting there when I took it out and made some runs. It ran a 3.78, 3.79 and 3.81 vs my S of 3.5, 3.6 and 3.61. That was with the S just off a charge session and 96-97% battery level. That is an average time 3.57 vs 3.79 and again with the 3 at a lower state of charge.

The last M3P I tested would definitely take my S to 60 with no issue at all. Nothing special to launch other than hit the throttle and watch the S disappear at least until 70 mph. Running an MYP would be a very tight race to 60.

I still have seen a single 3.1 from anyone for the LR. You see lots of Plaids hitting their claimed times. Every M3P I tested last year either hit their times or was close enough to give the benefit of the doubt. One M3P I tested did 3.07 vs the claimed 3.1 when adjusting it for rollout. If comparing the same way of measuring the times they do for the P versions, the LR would be running about 2.9 flat (similar to the time shown above omitting 1' rollout). The M3P and MYP don't need anything special to hit their times. Enough charge, decent surface, and hit the throttle. I got good times with the 3/Y on just generic roads.

Given the relatively low HP of the MS LR vs Plaid, I don't think dragstrip mode is going to make any difference. Especially how soft the car launches now.
 
You didn’t use dragstrip mode?
Not yet. I plan to do it when I have more time. I can see where it would potentially help the Plaid more than the LR. If I had to make a bet, I doubt it will make any difference since Tesla says basically it just pre-warms everything and lowers the CG. The car just came off the charger, it was a pretty warm day, and a few full throttle runs would tend to warm up everything anyway.

Previously I ran dragstrip mode without anything to measure the acceleration before. I couldn't tell any difference as far as rate of acceleration. Just to rule out something else, I'll do it but if it makes more than 0.2 seconds difference, I'll be shocked.
 
Not yet. I plan to do it when I have more time. I can see where it would potentially help the Plaid more than the LR. If I had to make a bet, I doubt it will make any difference since Tesla says basically it just pre-warms everything and lowers the CG. The car just came off the charger, it was a pretty warm day, and a few full throttle runs would tend to warm up everything anyway.

Previously I ran dragstrip mode without anything to measure the acceleration before. I couldn't tell any difference as far as rate of acceleration. Just to rule out something else, I'll do it but if it makes more than 0.2 seconds difference, I'll be shocked.
I use the S3XY buttons to measure battery temps and “Max Discharge” in my Model 3 Performance.

I have seen as low as 432 KW for “Max Discharge” and as much as 462 KW with 90%+ SOC.

I have seen as much as a .3 second difference for the 1/4 mile between a fully preconditioned battery and one that doesn’t have temps optimized at all.

Preconditioning is the single most important thing for improving performance of my Model 3 Performance. Maybe it is different for the S but I doubt it.

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Not yet. I plan to do it when I have more time. I can see where it would potentially help the Plaid more than the LR. If I had to make a bet, I doubt it will make any difference since Tesla says basically it just pre-warms everything and lowers the CG. The car just came off the charger, it was a pretty warm day, and a few full throttle runs would tend to warm up everything anyway.

Previously I ran dragstrip mode without anything to measure the acceleration before. I couldn't tell any difference as far as rate of acceleration. Just to rule out something else, I'll do it but if it makes more than 0.2 seconds difference, I'll be shocked.
So you expect it to perform at its peak performance numbers without optimizing it including by using the settings that explicitly are for peak performance.
 
Not yet. I plan to do it when I have more time. I can see where it would potentially help the Plaid more than the LR. If I had to make a bet, I doubt it will make any difference since Tesla says basically it just pre-warms everything and lowers the CG. The car just came off the charger, it was a pretty warm day, and a few full throttle runs would tend to warm up everything anyway.

Previously I ran dragstrip mode without anything to measure the acceleration before. I couldn't tell any difference as far as rate of acceleration. Just to rule out something else, I'll do it but if it makes more than 0.2 seconds difference, I'll be shocked.
A couple of things about drag strip mode:
1) It pre-torques the wheels -- here is a link to a pic that shows it: #365
2) It does not drop to CoG as much as move it. Dropping only the nose makes sure the front wheels stay loaded and maintain max traction when you launch
 
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So you expect it to perform at its peak performance numbers without optimizing it including by using the settings that explicitly are for peak performance.
I am not saying there isn't some benefit, I highly doubt it is worth .4 seconds. If you have to do all this just to get it to run 3.1, that is pretty sad. Like I've seen, the M3P, with absolutely no prep, across several examples I've seen, easily runs very close to it's claimed 3.1 time. Granted the 3.1 seconds are measured slightly differently so they aren't directly comparable but it still ran what it should have compared to the claim.

Another counterpoint is running my 3. Cold pack, not a warm day, not even full charge, and it still ran very close to what Tesla claimed. No preconditioning of the batteries.

If the only way the MS LR will run a 3.1 0-60 is going through all the hassle of drag strip mode, it will be pretty sad. If this is what you have to do to get the LR to run the claimed times, then they should not that somewhere. It also means you might not want to run an M3P on the street either.

I don't think the LR is having traction issues like the Plaid might. It has the same amount of tire as the Plaid and 300+ HP less.
 
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I am not saying there isn't some benefit, I highly doubt it is worth .4 seconds. If you have to do all this just to get it to run 3.1, that is pretty sad. Like I've seen, the M3P, with absolutely no prep, across several examples I've seen, easily runs very close to it's claimed 3.1 time. Granted the 3.1 seconds are measured slightly differently so they aren't directly comparable but it still ran what it should have compared to the claim.

Another counterpoint is running my 3. Cold pack, not a warm day, not even full charge, and it still ran very close to what Tesla claimed. No preconditioning of the batteries.

If the only way the MS LR will run a 3.1 0-60 is going through all the hassle of drag strip mode, it will be pretty sad. If this is what you have to do to get the LR to run the claimed times, then they should not that somewhere. It also means you might not want to run an M3P on the street either.

I don't think the LR is having traction issues like the Plaid might. It has the same amount of tire as the Plaid and 300+ HP less.
I haven’t seen much variance in 0-60 mph times until I changed to lighter wheels. Up top is where I have seen differences with temps and SOC. Preconditioning seems to affect 1/4 mile trap speeds tremendously.

I saw a full weight Plaid with stock 21” wheels running 9.27 @ 157 mph on a really well prepped and FAST track. Charging to 100% at the track and preconditioning with cheetah and Drag mode seemed to help there.
 
Making any judgments with just 0-60 on Dragy is not worth the effort. Much better to use at least 1/8 mile or better 1/4 mile which gives you a longer time, a longer curve, and the crucial 60 foot times that tell you what is happening at the start with traction.

0-60 is for marketing and car magazines.

1/8 mile and 1/4 mile on a proper surface (which you can tell by the 60 foot time) is for actually making any intelligent informed determinations about your car and whether it is performing at its peak.
 
I haven’t seen much variance in 0-60 mph times until I changed to lighter wheels. Up top is where I have seen differences with temps and SOC. Preconditioning seems to affect 1/4 mile trap speeds tremendously.

I saw a full weight Plaid with stock 21” wheels running 9.27 @ 157 mph on a really well prepped and FAST track. Charging to 100% at the track and preconditioning with cheetah and Drag mode seemed to help there.
With my car, I have not seen much variance with SoC, at least for 0-60. Even on the 1/4 mi, my fastest run was at something like 80%. Conditioning definitely makes a difference, somewhere around here I posted pics of Draggy runs before and after.

EDIT: Oh yeah, in this thread: #2 :)
 
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Making any judgments with just 0-60 on Dragy is not worth the effort. Much better to use at least 1/8 mile or better 1/4 mile which gives you a longer time, a longer curve, and the crucial 60 foot times that tell you what is happening at the start with traction.

0-60 is for marketing and car magazines.

1/8 mile and 1/4 mile on a proper surface (which you can tell by the 60 foot time) is for actually making any intelligent informed determinations about your car and whether it is performing at its peak.
Even running 0-60 times will give me useful data. I have no good areas where I can really run the S out. In the 1/4 mile I would be in the mid to upper 120's. I have no track nearby to run the car on. So running those speeds on a public road are a recipe for going to jail here. I already have that problem with my really high performance motorcycles.

The problem here is my LR is not running anywhere close to the claimed 0-60 stat and that is the ONLY stat Tesla has published for the LR. There is not a single reference anywhere that I could find in Tesla's website regarding the LR's 1/4 mile times. For the Plaid they made a big fuss over the 1/4 mile time as well as the 0-60 times.

From 0-80, and any speed range in between, are the ones I can use on a daily basis and not have a lot of risk of going to jail or losing my license on the highways where I am at.

If the car is not running like Tesla claims, I want irrefutable evidence that there is an issue and they can't sweep it away with the typical BS of it is within spec. Soon I'll have enough data to see what my particular car is capable of. I assume they will still try and tell me it is within spec but this is an important issue to me so I will push it as hard as I have to.

My other Teslas have been pretty close to their claimed times that it wasn't an issue for me. My LR isn't even remotely in the same ballpark and one of the key reasons I bought the car was the claimed 3.1 sec 0-60 time. I wanted something quicker than the M3P but I had no need for a Plaid. I had driven enough M3P's to know that I something with a bit better performance than it with more comfort and range was probably about ideal for what I was looking for.
 
Sorry if it’s already been discussed but what impact does ambient temperature have on the plaids performance? Say 100F vs 75F. Also, does anyone know if the car shuts off the AC compressor at full throttle as an ICE motor would.

Pulled out my dragy and did a non drag mode launch with ac on and very hot, over 100 ambient. Was surprised to see 3.1. After I left gym and car had a while to cool off and ambient dropped to low 90s it did a 2.5 and pulled much harder (ac off). This was roughly half a percent uphill as well. Id love to try some more and get a 2.2 so I know my plaid is performing as well as it should.
 
I use the S3XY buttons to measure battery temps and “Max Discharge” in my Model 3 Performance.

I have seen as low as 432 KW for “Max Discharge” and as much as 462 KW with 90%+ SOC.

I have seen as much as a .3 second difference for the 1/4 mile between a fully preconditioned battery and one that doesn’t have temps optimized at all.

Preconditioning is the single most important thing for improving performance of my Model 3 Performance. Maybe it is different for the S but I doubt it.

View attachment 830266
View attachment 830267
Is there such an app available for model S plaid / LR ?
 
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Sorry if it’s already been discussed but what impact does ambient temperature have on the plaids performance? Say 100F vs 75F. Also, does anyone know if the car shuts off the AC compressor at full throttle as an ICE motor would.

Pulled out my dragy and did a non drag mode launch with ac on and very hot, over 100 ambient. Was surprised to see 3.1. After I left gym and car had a while to cool off and ambient dropped to low 90s it did a 2.5 and pulled much harder (ac off). This was roughly half a percent uphill as well. Id love to try some more and get a 2.2 so I know my plaid is performing as well as it should.
I never have been able to get better than 2.12 on the plaid (gutted) on street. there is just not enough traction at least on the roads around here.

On dragy it shows that anything past 1.3g accel result in wheel spin on street. stock 19" with stock pirellis
 
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For anyone interested in Dragy times for an LR, and my observations of effects of SoC on the LR, starting with post #63 to 86 (currently), I've posted a lot of Dragy runs for reference. My observations so far is things that might help the Plaid make no difference on my LR.

Dragstrip mode (I abbreviate- 'DSM') and cheetah (I abbreviate 'C' and combined 'DSMC') seem to make no difference. Same as running AC or not. From mid 70% to 100% SoC don't really seem to matter (I haven't tested lower). My hypothesis is all the stuff done to handle the Plaid's load on the battery pack give an incredible amount of headroom for the LR. So even if not up to temps, or other load on it (AC), there is a surplus of available power from the battery to handle the relatively (compared to Plaid) load.

To quantify the variations in time, for best run to worst run is .13 seconds when in similar load in the car. Some of my best runs were with about 75% charge and no DSM or DSMC. Just a touch off my absolute best which was 100% SoC and DSMC. At 97% charge, no DSMC, I was only .02 seconds slower and now wait for it to get into cheetah stance. I also found I can make 10 runs back to back with very little variation in time and no real drop off in performance.

So what I learned so far is my car is pretty consistent at least between 75-100% SoC. DSM or DSMC has no real benefit, even to warm up the batteries after my car sat for 5 hours and ambient temp was mid 80's. I could see the benefit on a really cold day for sure, but all my runs were mid 70's or better for temps.

Lastly it never once hit the claimed times by Tesla. The last M3P I drove could beat the claimed times. I don't think traction is really an issue her but someday I'll take it to a track and see if it matters. Based on my runs, on my car, a freshly charged M3P is going to beat my S off the line every time, and highly likely to 60 mph. At 30 mph though the LR has closed the deficit it had at the start and will start to reel in the M3P. Tesla REALLY neutered the launch on this car. If it launched as hard at the M3P to 30 mph, this car would be running probably 2.8 0-60. The LR would be a perfect candidate for boost. The launch really lets down the overall acceleration of the car.

 
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