I saw no difference between the stock Bosal hitch and the Draw-tite when I performed the upgrade. Certainly there was no gasket in place. So I’m guessing the risk is similar, depending on the relative quality of the finish.
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Would anyone have the original 2” Bosal receiver surplus to requirements? I can not get one through Tesla locally here in Australia.
balerion
Member
Just ordered mine today. thanks for the review and all the information. It’s really helpful and insightful to find these types of posts.
Is it ok to tow with out the Tesla tow package software? Don't have tow package on my 2016 mx but would like to get capability.
If it's an early 2016 you may actually have the tow package hardware. In which case they'll activate the software. I think when I had it done it was somewhere between $750 and $1250. Can't remember exact price. Then you can go ahead and change out the hitch.
Don't know if they will activate software on an MX without the OEM hardward. Also don't know if they will activate with third party hardware.
JimVandegriff
Member
Tedkidd, I'm not sure what this has to do with the Draw-tite hitch, but Tony is a treasure. Can you say more about what you are asking?
Tedkidd
Member
Sorry, that was clear as mud. This might not be much better.
It seems people towing might have a really good understanding of what length extension cord they'd like to see. You guys are probably the biggest potential users.
Tedkidd
Member
Not really. Rarely is there a case where Supercharger spacing is more frequent than necessary on routes where people go camping, even here in California. Usually, I have to stop at every Supercharger. Unhitching and rehitching is a 5 minute process on each side of charging and is not terribly inconvenient.
What an extension might do is allow slightly more convenience certain Supercharger locations. But I think it would have to be unreasonably long/heavy/unwieldy to really be worthwhile at most locations. Pulling in head-first leaves the camper sticking out the back. In most locations, that blocks a parking lane. Parallel parking only works if there are open spots on the end, and quite a few in order to cover the X + camper combination.
In most cases where I've charged with the camper, I can still imagine that I'd have to babysit the rig while charging to ensure I'm not inconveniencing anyone. For me, it's worth a few minutes so I can take a walk and get away from things.
I don't think it would be terribly helpful. Just a slight convenience in occasional situations. That's my opinion, based on my experience towing.
An extension cable suitable for Supercharger use would weigh upwards of 10 Lb per foot, maybe more if longer than 20 feet. I am not interested in lugging a 500 lb cord out of my vehicle to charge, let alone having to carry it around.
What do I need to get to connect my 4pin trailer to the Tesla harness ending. What did Ohmman use for the 10in. harness from Tesla ending to his plastic under plate?
Sorry to bump this back up, but a couple questions:
1) so the Model X factory hitch is essientially the "bumper bar" for the car? there is not other bumper bash bar underneath the bumper cover?
2) has anyone tried to fit the model x hitch to the model S? Does it work? Bolt pattern and drop distance the same?
thanks!
1) so the Model X factory hitch is essientially the "bumper bar" for the car? there is not other bumper bash bar underneath the bumper cover?
2) has anyone tried to fit the model x hitch to the model S? Does it work? Bolt pattern and drop distance the same?
thanks!
Pismo
Member
^^ following 1) too.
I have no tow package, and I’m looking to install a hitch for bike rack and skis, however when I pulled the little compartment open I noticed the bumper support. I assume that we remove that to install the hitch but I need some confirmation too
I have no tow package, and I’m looking to install a hitch for bike rack and skis, however when I pulled the little compartment open I noticed the bumper support. I assume that we remove that to install the hitch but I need some confirmation too
Yes @Pismo i did this with my 2016 MX after others here confirmed. You remove the bumper bar. Then install your hitch in its place. The strength of the hitch and the bumper is roughly equivalent and they serve the same purpose. Those with the trailer hitch package direct from Tesla do not have the bumper bar for example....
Update 2020: I purchased a new 2020 LR+ yesterday, and had a Draw-Tite waiting in the garage. I just finished the installation today. There are some slight changes in the installation, and the manual hasn't been updated, but the changes are easy enough to figure out.
References are to Draw-Tite's installation manual, currently located here.
Step 3a: These are now 10mm bolts like the others on the underbody
Step 3b: These are a different type of fastener (photo below), and I found it unnecessary to remove them.
Step 3c: I removed a third push pin rivet at the top of the wheel well, which was helpful in getting the liner pulled back.
Step 3d: On one side of my vehicle (passenger), the yellow plastic nut that holds the screw spun freely and was very difficult to lock. I wound up raising my suspension to Very High and using a pair of vise grips to hold it in place. Same for putting it back together. Be careful, the car may not stay in Very High suspension, especially if you close the door and it locks.
Step 5: I performed this cut, but after reinstallation realized it was unnecessary unless I wind up hitching something with a very long shank. It leaves a gap behind the hitch receiver, which I find undesirable personally.
I also found that the Draw-Tite hitch receiver was chipped in a number of places. Because we are about to evacuate from local wildfires, and need this hitch receiver installed, I decided to just hit it with a few coats of Rustoleum. The chips were on the edges, and nowhere that would make contact with the X (for fear of galvanic corrosion). I doubt it would have been a huge problem, but I wanted to prevent rust from forming from condensation and humidity.
I still need to fasten the 7-pin receptacle to the underbody panel, which will be done shortly.
Wheel well fastener (anyone know the name of these?):
Stock hitch:
Draw-Tite hitch:
References are to Draw-Tite's installation manual, currently located here.
Step 3a: These are now 10mm bolts like the others on the underbody
Step 3b: These are a different type of fastener (photo below), and I found it unnecessary to remove them.
Step 3c: I removed a third push pin rivet at the top of the wheel well, which was helpful in getting the liner pulled back.
Step 3d: On one side of my vehicle (passenger), the yellow plastic nut that holds the screw spun freely and was very difficult to lock. I wound up raising my suspension to Very High and using a pair of vise grips to hold it in place. Same for putting it back together. Be careful, the car may not stay in Very High suspension, especially if you close the door and it locks.
Step 5: I performed this cut, but after reinstallation realized it was unnecessary unless I wind up hitching something with a very long shank. It leaves a gap behind the hitch receiver, which I find undesirable personally.
I also found that the Draw-Tite hitch receiver was chipped in a number of places. Because we are about to evacuate from local wildfires, and need this hitch receiver installed, I decided to just hit it with a few coats of Rustoleum. The chips were on the edges, and nowhere that would make contact with the X (for fear of galvanic corrosion). I doubt it would have been a huge problem, but I wanted to prevent rust from forming from condensation and humidity.
I still need to fasten the 7-pin receptacle to the underbody panel, which will be done shortly.
Wheel well fastener (anyone know the name of these?):
Stock hitch:
Draw-Tite hitch:
A 2” hole saw works perfectly for the wiring harness and 7-pin cassette. I had to use some temporary screws to mount the 7-pin, since the stock ones are metal screws. But I’ll replace later. Done!
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My friend, you've 100% convinced me to order the Draw-Tite. Just placed my order with Auto Zone. $193.99, due to arrive next week. As much as I appreciate eTrailer, they seem extraordinarily expensive - $336.65, ETA mid-November. Just couldn't bring myself to spend the extra $140+ - I'd like to support them but that's not just a few dollars more... it's significantly so.
And thank you for the 2" hole suggestion - I've got one and that'll work perfectly. Love the way you mounted it; what kind of screws are you planning to use permanently?
While I'm being annoying (sorry); two more questions. Any idea what the height is from the ground to the top of the receiver, I guess with the ride height in standard?
And secondly - now that you've had the Draw-Tite installed for a few years; curious if you saw any evidence of galvanic corrosion or rusting on the hitch? Want to prevent an issue - saw the article above for another brand where a gasket was used; that seems a simple solution to me, but must be unnecessary if Draw-Tite continues to manufacture without it?
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One thing to consider when mounting the plug to the pan is the orientation of the door. Ohmsman has his plug door swinging to the left. I played with a few configurations and prefer mine swinging open toward the front of the car.
BTW. You can mount the plug on the pan without changing out the hitch or removing the rear bumper cover. Can be done through the hitch door opening. Basically just unscrewing the plug, cutting a few plastic zip ties that bind the wiring, and extending down to where you cut the pan with a 2" hole saw.
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