In my case, no roi for batteries, or my generator. Now if I had an EV, I would think differently. Or even on ev2a, I might change stuff. I just keep wondering if folks have thought about all the stuff, pro and cons, roi, costs, etc. before they buy batteries? The ones I talk with did not. They have no idea about any of the details.
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Energy limit from solar sending back to PGE?
- Thread starter h2ofun
- Start date
Perhaps your sample size is too small or skewed by some unknown selection factor. That view is not representative of the typical Powerwall purchaser. I belong to a number of forums and this one typically is populated by people with fairly good critical thinking skills and most people here have a pretty good idea about the details.
I belong to another forum where most of the participants are off grid, using lead acid batteries, diesel generators and drive pick up trucks. That group has no idea about TOU rates.
Then there is a recent discussion on NextDoor where everyone is complaining about their PG&E bill tripling but they can't read their bill detail to even explain if their Therms consumption went up or their kWh consumption went up.
As I often say, it all depends on where you are standing. My PG&E bill quadrupled but it is clearly because I consumed six times as many Therms as in the prior month. Long term my plan is to convert to a heat pump and eliminate that winter Therm consumption.
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here, I'm going to do this for your again. Here is month to month comparison of my Solar Only and then adding PWs. Do you see the difference? Over $1000 savings because of PWs and that's not yet a full year
right. but i was only adding storage so there's no requirement to go to NEM2 in that case as i understand it.
i have analyzed PW and non-PW scenarios across EV-A, EV2-A and E-TOU-C (with my own real consumption and production data) and by far EV-A is the most advantageous to me with powerwalls. EV2-A is next and E-TOU-C is last. in the case with no powerwalls, E-TOU-C is the best plan.
i think this is consistent with your spreadsheet since IIRC upthread you were saying you are on EV (or EV2). bottom line is the big deltas between peak and shoulder (or off-peak) with the EV plans really help a lot in lowering the overall bill when you're able to load-shift.
Yep, makes sense. But, what is the ROI compared for each option. Is it worth the hassle of dealing with all the stuff? If one has an EV car , I fully get it. But for the folks buying batteries WITHOUT an EV car, how does it make sense? Without batteries, my true up will be zero, with 99.9% of my energy cost. Meaning, many seem to not have heat pumps for heating so the need to add their gas or propane costs to their total yearly energy use. If one afford to buy and EV, one can afford to upgrade to heat pumps.
In my case, if I want to do this game, I would have buy by the temp control hw for each of my mini split heads. Lets see, 500 bucks each time 10, so another 5K out of pocket.
I just continue to try and ask why, when I see posts that say they "save" all this money, but never talk about ALL the things involved. But, I understand, when one spends all the money, no one is going to say but maybe I should not have. Well, I am willing to say maybe I should not have spent 17K for a whole house generator since zero ROI and added another set of things for me to deal with.
Yep, makes sense. But, what is the ROI compared for each option. Is it worth the hassle of dealing with all the stuff? If one has an EV car , I fully get it. But for the folks buying batteries WITHOUT an EV car, how does it make sense? Without batteries, my true up will be zero, with 99.9% of my energy cost. Meaning, many seem to not have heat pumps for heating so the need to add their gas or propane costs to their total yearly energy use. If one afford to buy and EV, one can afford to upgrade to heat pumps.
In my case, if I want to do this game, I would have buy by the temp control hw for each of my mini split heads. Lets see, 500 bucks each time 10, so another 5K out of pocket.
I just continue to try and ask why, when I see posts that say they "save" all this money, but never talk about ALL the things involved. But, I understand, when one spends all the money, no one is going to say but maybe I should not have. Well, I am willing to say maybe I should not have spent 17K for a whole house generator since zero ROI and added another set of things for me to deal with.
An EV makes no difference for a PW. EVs charge from the grid at night at Off Peak rate. Did you look at my spreadsheet and see the impact?
If you got PWs, you could set your house at normal temps in the summer and winter and still get a zero true-up
charlesj
Active Member
So, what are "normal" temps? My upstairs is now 68, with a setting of 64. I expect to keep the summer 76. All of this with no PW's
or huge extra costs, or anything to worry about when I use and I expect a zero true up. I fully understand you spent the money and will die on the hill defending. Great, I think what each of us does with our money is great. I believe if I get the batteries, I logically will never say it was smart!! Just the amount of money I may need to pay in taxes makes them not free and no ROI, IMO, for me.
So, whats better, a ford or chevy?
Plus you would have a hedge against further erosion of NEM benefits by TOU period shifts. Also you could have future access to Virtual Power Plant revenue when Tesla implements that in California.
"Normal temps" are the temperature settings that your significant other decides to set the thermostat at. Furthermore if she is menopausal it could vary from hour to hour. You can't put an ROI number on that.
Clearly an EV is better from a cost of operation standpoint. It will also allow you to leverage your solar panels and get you a more favorable TOU rate.
Call the PG&E solar support line, with some luck you will get someone who will know how to pull up what they have on record.
