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Failed Rear Lower Control Arm / Service Bulletin SB-19-31-001

Discussion in 'Model S' started by airsailor, Aug 31, 2020.

  1. No CO2

    No CO2 Member

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    @demundus
    You made your own control arms? Can you reply with a drawing or how you made the part?
    How much did it cost?
     
  2. No CO2

    No CO2 Member

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    Just trying to learn more about this, as my car is a Aug 2013 build

    In this rear suspension photo, the arrow points to the place of failure. Correct?

    Does anyone know where the part number is located on this part? I am curious if a previous owner already fixed this on my car.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. David.85D

    David.85D Active Member

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    #43 David.85D, Sep 3, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2020
    The part numbers are on stickers. You can rub the numbers off while cleaning, so take pictures first. Hope your stickers are present and readable!

    I’m not sure about your cartoon. It’s a weird perspective for me. It looks more like this part (circled)

    BB1BA3E5-05BE-4614-A1EC-9016C800243F.jpeg
     
  4. demundus

    demundus Active Member

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    Theres a drawing floating around on the forum that I modified to fit my needs and then went to a water jetting place locally and explained the tolerances and we got a pair jetted up. I don't know where MY drawings have gone, its been a few years and two computers later. The other ones are under lolachamp's post on the forums. I used that as a starting point. Understandably, he wants nothing to do with syndicating the drawings due to liability. So search, use, modify, cut, at your own risk.
     
  5. houstonian

    houstonian ಠ_ಠ

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    Houston. Duh.
  6. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    @TSLA Pilot: Yes, you're correct -- this is accurate and not embellished in any way. I really, really wish it weren't true.

    @No CO2: Yes, your black arrow points to the large boss that cracked and failed. My car is an August 2013 build just like yours. I am guessing that Tesla Service would be able to tell you if your lower control arms have already been replaced with the updated part. For reference, the new control arm assembly costs $350 and installation at Tesla is $205, so having them replace both sides will run $1110. My total bill for replacing both sides plus damaged air spring and half shaft and other bits is now $4500, so I would recommend replacing both control arms before one fails, as it only gets more painful after the fact. And, of course, there's the small matter of safety....
     
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  7. Zuikkis

    Zuikkis Member

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    @airsailor , can you make out the part number in the original lower arms? In the SB the new partnumber is listed as 1027459-99-A, I wonder if the original weak one is without the -A suffix?

    Just checked the part numbers on my 2013 P85+ and they both are 1027459-99-A, so perhaps they are already replaced and I'm safe? :)
     
  8. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    @Zuikkis, the car is still at Tesla and won't be ready till middle of this week. I've instructed them to save all the parts they R&R so once I have the failed control arm in hand I will let you know what that part number is if I can make it out. Your part number matches the upgraded replacement part number, so if it were my car, I would assume the arms have been replaced already. Couldn't Tesla review the service records for you car and let you know date of their replacement? And, why is it that we don't all have access to the complete Tesla service records for our car? Wouldn't it make sense for that to be part of the app or otherwise shared with current owners? Kind of like the difficulty accessing electronic medical records!

    BTW, Tesla service is now telling me that during the repair they found a coolant hose that was chafing and that must be replaced, once they get the replacement hose in stock. My used MS is getting more expensive by the day. I have a cousin who is a used car dealer and he says: "If you can't afford a new Jaguar, you definitely can't afford a *used* Jaguar!" I am coming to the conclusion that this applies to Teslas equally!
     
  9. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    The A suffix is the first version of a part. The base (numeric) part number would need to be different.
     
  10. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    The SB calls out part number 1027459-99-A as the updated part to replace the original control arms with. That appears to be what's already in @Zuikkis car.

    The Service Manager told me that they have a later TSB about this issue that doesn't include the USA or Canada and lists only a few European countries, and he said as a result SB 19-31-001 doesn't apply. I asked him if the later SB specifically supercedes SB 19-31-001 and I didn't get a clear answer, so I have a hard time believing that's the case. He said he "opened a case" with his higher-ups and is waiting to hear if they will show me some consideration. In my phone conversation he agreed that this is a safety issue and that I am right to expect the suspension not to spontaneously fail, but he lead me to believe that he is powerless to make a decision about making this, or some part of this repair, a goodwill fix. I still think this should probably be a recall item. Wait and see mode continues.
     
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  11. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    So here's Tesla's resolution: I pay for the failed control arm and all the parts damaged in the collapse of the suspension: $3,921. They will replace the other side control arm as a goodwill gesture, which would cost $555. They are also replacing a coolant hose that they discovered has been chafing, gratis. Finally, they are discounting my bill by 10% to $3,529. So not a huge goodwill gesture, but not nothing. Of course I am still out-of-pocket a non-trivial amount for a suspension failure that I think should never have occurred.
     
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  12. dark cloud

    dark cloud Active Member

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    Sorry if I missed this; just quickly scanned this thread again, but when you say you bought it from a used dealership and not privately did you bring it to their attention? Don’t dealerships typically offer at least a 30 day warranty? Hit them up for some of the repair bill or smear your experience all over social media threat?
     
  13. TSLA Pilot

    TSLA Pilot Active Member

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    A NDA can't prohibit filing a report with NHTSA, and NEVER should either.

    File your report at Safercar.gov (or similar) ASAP please.
     
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  14. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    I filed a report with NHTSA on August 29th, before any of this discussion with Tesla Service occurred: Check for Recalls: Vehicle, Car Seat, Tire, Equipment I haven't had any contact from NHTSA yet and don't really expect to.

    The failure occurred just outside the 30 day power train warranty from the NJ used car dealer. I'm going to let them know about it, but I honestly don't think it's their fault in any way. They did share the cost of replacing the eMMC which restored my MCU.

    The letter I FedEx'd to Service Disputes in Palo Alto was just delivered yesterday. I don't know if I will get a response or if they will decide that the matter is settled, once they have my payment. I'm running out of steam and will probably just chalk this up to bad luck and poor customer service, although I persist in thinking this should be a recall -- I can't fathom how Tesla can know these parts are subject to failure and just leave them in customers' cars....
     
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  15. DGates

    DGates Member

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    Just found this thread after the service centre replaced my rear control arms while I had the car in for some other work. I agree this is rather scary and should have been a recall. For me at least, they did it as warranty work.

    My car is a 2013 S85, delivered in October 2013, P23170. I do have the ESA on this car too.

    upload_2020-9-24_13-42-12.png
     
  16. TSLA Pilot

    TSLA Pilot Active Member

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    To which I would have added, " . . . and add another $3k to that for my aggravation, time, and trouble, and for having to serve you with these legal papers, especially since I have all records showing that I maintained my car to factory specifications."

    Gotta ask, what brand was it?

    I'll guess it was Porsche or BMW?
     
  17. hpartsch

    hpartsch Member

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    Mine car is a 2013 S85, manufactured in 6/2013....

    April 2019: I inquired about this concern and received the following on my invoice:
    Client requests rear lower control arms be inspected for cracking as described in SB-19-31-001 (attached). Please note this vehicle has not been identified as an affected VIN. Technician inspected both rear lower control arms and verified no replacement necessary Correction: Raise Vehicle - 2 Post Lift

    I'm wondering if I need to look into this again...? I bought a Tesla jack pad -- so I'll try to find out what part number I have shortly after it arrives...
     
  18. hpartsch

    hpartsch Member

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    Please file a complaint and upload your Service Invoice to the complaint (if you didn't already).
    File a Vehicle Safety Complaint | Safercar.gov | NHTSA
     
  19. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    @DGates, Thanks for posting this -- really good to see that someone had these parts repaired under warranty. Would you be kind enough to let me know which Service Center did the work for you and when that occurred?

    I picked up my repaired car on Sept 12 but the Service Center said they were revising my bill to reflect a 10% goodwill discount as well as free replacement of the left side lower rear control arm -- the side that hadn't failed. I am now expecting a bill of approximately $3600. They told me to take the car and they would be in touch when the bill was ready, and that hasn't happened yet. I am wondering if the letter I sent out to "Repair Disputes" in Palo Alto has them reconsidering, but that is likely just wishful thinking.


     
  20. airsailor

    airsailor Member

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    Two shots of the failed control arm removed from the car by the SC. Interestingly, no one at the SC made any noise about this being impact-related damage -- it's clear to them that this thing just cracked like the Service Bulletin says it might. The crack farthest away from the arm is oxidized, suggesting that it occurred some time ago and the part held together until the other two cracks nearest the arm occurred and the part failed completely. I am struck by how lightweight the material is -- the two broken parts of the circular boss weigh almost nothing. My non-engineer impression is that the material simply doesn't seem strong enough to deal with the huge amount of load it has to carry. In this particular case it wasn't. One last note: these original arms are PN: 1021416-00A and the SC replaced them with PN: 1027459-99-A, which I am hoping is the latest revision.

    c.jpg d.jpg
     
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