Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

[yerEVan]

Your light cable has 4 wires black, white, blue and red right?

I failed to mention I hooked up the connector in the trunk lid as well that I didn’t see originally so maybe I pulled something else when I put the trim back up.

 

[KenC]

I tested foot sensor with two different boxes for accidental opening.
The testing repeated a couple of times, and it never opened by itself.

https://youtu.be/QCIH-VVusqYView attachment 468522

Haha, how do we know your foot sensor actually works? All jokes aside, I thought there was answer, a long time ago from the OP, that the foot sensor needed something to be close for over a quarter second to activate, in order to eliminate false opens. Maybe you should stop just over the box.

 

[Garlan Garner]

We used the same method, but not sure if it's the best. One of us had a small leak couple of days ago.
Personally I'm not fan of this method, we're investigating another one using the rear bumper.
I will let you know if it's easy and doable.

It works perfectly for me. No leaks or anything.

I'm more interested in how you got water to run up a wire. That would be far more interesting than getting the automatic trunk/frunk to work.

 

[Marcuir]

It works perfectly for me. No leaks or anything.

I'm more interested in how you got water to run up a wire. That would be far more interesting than getting the automatic trunk/frunk to work.

I can explain, but first let's put the sarcasm/jokes apart for a second .

To install the struts of the trunk we are here using a hole used to plug the rear lights, to run a wire inside the trunk. So if you're aware of gravity, when it's raining it's easy to imagine water running down the little spaces and going through the hole were the plug of the light and your wire are placed.
Sorry, but this solution is not elegant, we're squishing a wire between two objects, it's not meant to be there. One more time, I'm not suffering from any issue for the moment, but a friend complained couple of days ago about this (small water drops inside the trunk around the left rear light plug).

 

[netjack]

Yes, it shows rear trunk always closed after the installing the kit.
Hansshow foot sensor is only about 3 inch wide unlike modern 20 - 30 inch OEM vehicle’s.
You need kick the specific spot where the sensor installed. It is a little harder than OEM vehicle’s sensor.
The bumper has to removed and the sensor cables(3 wires) need to be soldered to existing Hanssow positive power wire and two light wires.
It is really up to personal preference.

I haven't found any vids or clear instructions on how to connect the foot sensor cables to rest of the harness. What did you follow?

 

[netjack]

Can someone provide me with a little bit more description about what that oval shaped switch button does? BTW, it looks like I got the "updated" version of the harness with the respective cuts

 

[netjack]

I failed to mention I hooked up the connector in the trunk lid as well that I didn’t see originally so maybe I pulled something else when I put the trim back up.

So it looks like I'm just behind you in the install and waiting for some insight into your situation in case I run into it myself when installing the foot sensor.

 

[netjack]

@not4antoher,

Appreciate the inner bumper foot sensor photos. That was my plan as well. On the foot sensor wires did they include the wire taps or did you have some handy (what size)?

Ski

Did you end up using wire taps or sodering?

 

[yerEVan]

So it looks like I'm just behind you in the install and waiting for some insight into your situation in case I run into it myself when installing the foot sensor.

Yeah, i'll be doing that tonight. i hope to find the culprit under the trunk lid trim. I'll definitely update this thread tonight.

 

[yerEVan]

Haha, how do we know your foot sensor actually works? All jokes aside, I thought there was answer, a long time ago from the OP, that the foot sensor needed something to be close for over a quarter second to activate, in order to eliminate false opens. Maybe you should stop just over the box.

Not sure if this is related but while driving, maybe 10 miles an hour, in the app, i tried to open the trunk and it did not allow it, oddly it allows you to try. so not sure if while out of park that it just doesn't allow the trunk to open.

 

[netjack]

Ok - I'm done installing mine successfully. I followed a combination of the instructions that were provided by the manufacturer (which are terrible):

Tesla Model 3 electric tailgate installation instructions | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow

And this YouTube video:

I wasn't anticipating having to remove the bumper to do this installation, so it was more work than I originally thought. Going through the firewall was really not a big deal at all because you're just going through a rubber grommet that's already there. I didn't use the 1/2" bit like suggested in the video. I used a much smaller bit and then shoved the power connection through so it makes a nice tight seal. Really, running the power was actually the easiest part even though I thought it would be the hardest. Also note you need to remove the plastic piece under the passenger side dash to get to that grommet where you need to drill through. I already knew how to do that from having to replace the air filters. If you need help with that step, just find one of the videos on replacing the air filters and it will show you how to pop that piece off.

Also, my kit cable with an extra button and an extra cable which apparently I don't need unless I want to use the second button. It doesn't look like you need to connect the CAN-H or CAN-L connectors and I never figured out what the Yellow wire is for. Here is the cable that I ended up not using:

View attachment 466030

In order to get the car to think the trunk is always closed so that I can close the trunk from inside the car or from the app (by clicking OPEN when it's already open) I had to make one modification. There is a blue wire on the harness that goes to the existing trunk latch that needs to be removed from the harness. This is not documented anywhere. I'm not sure if maybe some kits come with this wire already removed?

View attachment 466031

Once that wire was removed, I could control open and close from inside the car.

Also worth mentioning is that with the default settings, it wouldn't close at all. You need to increase the closing power setting to 5 to get it to close properly. In order to do this, you need to use a screwdriver and put it in the latch so that the box thinks the trunk is closed, then hold the little black button on the controller until it beeps 5 times I think. I had to increase the speed setting as well by holding down the trunk close button. These steps are outlined in the written documentation link at the top of this post, but the english is not great, so it might be confusing.

Overall I'm very happy with the final results, even if it did take the better part of a day to get it done.

In what instance do you think you'd want to open the trunk from inside the car vs being outside the car if you got the version with the foot sensor? Trying to figure out if it's worth doing this modification. Also, I don't seem to have the connector you seem to mention that has this blue wire (am I looking at it wrong?).

 

[netjack]

BTW - take a look at this video:

At the 23:24 mark, he shows a new way to run the 12v using a gap behind the side of the dash - pretty ingenious! Still not sure why I shouldn't just run it to under the rear passenger seat.

 

[netjack]

Another thing I want mention,
Those who install the kit by them self.
Please, turn off the vehicle and disconnect 12v negative cable, and also DISCONNECT main 12v cable from high voltage battery pack. If you don’t disconnect that cable 12v current still alive even though you disconnect 12v negative cable. View attachment 467307View attachment 467308

You're referring to the 12v cable under the red cap in your top pic? Disconnect that? That's also where I'm planning on running my power to.

 

[not4antoher]

You're referring to the 12v cable under the red cap in your top pic? Disconnect that? That's also where I'm planning on running my power to.

Yes.
I am not sure that tapping power from the cable is okay.
It will cause a problem if the power is monitored by some modules.

 

[netjack]

I ran the cable though lower quarter panel grommets since rear bumper was already detached. View attachment 468301 View attachment 468302 View attachment 468303 View attachment 468304

So that means you don't really need to remove the tail lights do you?

 

[Marcuir]

Yes.
I am not sure that tapping power from the cable is okay.
It will cause a problem if the power is monitored by some modules.

Yes, that's true also when running the cable to the 12V battery you're not doing any modification to the wires of the car. So if one day you want to rollback everything and get the car as new, you can disconnect the whole thing and no one will know you did any modifications.
We used the same method from tesla offer video ,it's very easy to do.

 

[Marcuir]

New Update for the trunk(Hansshow):

A few days ago I reported to Hansshow an issue concerning the trunk. During the opening the Trunk never reaches the maximum extension of the struts. (You can easily see if you have the same problem by pushing up the trunk when it's wide open, you will notice it's not completely open).

So this morning I got an email with an update. I just tested it and it's working great. the file is attached here, please make sure to change the extension of the file to ".bin" before doing the update. I had to change it to ".txt" to get the right to attach it here.

Tools:
1. A TF card with 8G memory (under 16G is ok).
2. An equipment can read TF card (notebook, etc).

Upgrade process:
1. Format the TF card (format selection "FAT32", default cluster size)
2. Put the file into the TF card.
3, change the file name to update.bin
4. Insert the TF card into the control box slot.
The control box red light will flash rapidly (upgrading). After about 5 seconds, it will stop flashing and the red light will be on (upgrade is complete). Then pull out the TF card and the red light will return to normal flashing (red light flashes slowly). (The green light is always on during this process)
5. If there is no fast flashing or the flashing time is short (within 2S), or after upgrade the red light is not always bright, this is a phenomenon that the upgrade is not successful.
You can insert the upgrade again, you can insert the card first and then plug in the power. If you still can't upgrade normally, you need to change the TF card. (The name must be changed to update.bin or it cannot be upgraded normally).

After the update you need to reset the position and speed of the struts.

Feel free if you have any questions.

 

[yerEVan]

I failed to mention I hooked up the connector in the trunk lid as well that I didn’t see originally so maybe I pulled something else when I put the trim back up.

Yep, that was it. Hansshow was super cool and helpful. I’m an idiot. Everything is working great. Going to do the frunk tomorrow.

For the foot sensor i have to tap the bottom of the bumper a little bit for it to detect my foot. But I’m fine with that. Also put a piece of thicker fabric tape over the red speaker thing so it’s not so ear piercing.

 

[yerEVan]

So that means you don't really need to remove the tail lights do you?

I believe you do to get access to the bolts on the top of the bumper to remove bumper.

 

[yerEVan]

BTW - take a look at this video:

At the 23:24 mark, he shows a new way to run the 12v using a gap behind the side of the dash - pretty ingenious! Still not sure why I shouldn't just run it to under the rear passenger seat.

Yeah i ran it that new way, around the top part of the door. It was really easy so no pushing through the firewall.