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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
Maybe it means :
the two rubber pieces shown in the diagram, can be twisted to screw them in. You need to twist them in as far as possible to allow the trunk lid to close down firmly and avoid any possible leaks.
I am still a bit confused though. The trunk already closes properly (from Tesla’s original setup) with the rubber pieces in their original position. So why would it be necessary to change them?
apchoo
Member
To be honest I didn't even see that step. Their printed and online instructions were so bad I gave up on them a long time ago, and instead used the multitude of online videos as guides.
I just checked those 2 rubber pieces on my trunk lid. Screwing them in or out didn't appear to change the size of the gaps between the lid and the chassis. I reverted them back to their original positions.
apchoo
Member
Appreciate your contribution to the installationSorry for not good English. I just want to help.
. Do you work for Hansshow?I reckon as long as you do not see any light ingress into the trunk with the back seats down, you can be confident that water would not ingress as well. I'll do the following test in a dark garage or at night time.
- Close trunk lid.
- Fold down rear seats.
- Ask someone to shine a torch along the gap between lid and chassis while you try and spot any light coming thru from the back seats.
- Adjust the appropriate rubber knob if you see any light and retest.
@apchoo thanks for your thoughts on this step.. I expect you're right in your advice, but it did specifically say Precaution so I wanted to be a bit careful. I figured it's possible the videos just glossed over this (in fact even the Hansshow video shows some unclear steps about the rubber parts), or this might be new lessons learned info that wasn't in the older videos. Just being ultra cautious basically, and also I want to try and put together some more definitive and complete and clear steps at the end of this install, for others to read, and therefore I want to be as 100% as I can.
apchoo
Member
Regarding the V4 foot sensor ... the only installation instructions I could find on the Hansshow website is this page which isn't the V4 version as you have to tap a couple of wires. When I asked William@Hansshow on WhatsApp about how to install the V4 foot sensor, he sent me these photos.
He said to remove the trunk trim, then make a hole to pass thru the foot sensor cable out underneath the car. You'd still have to remove the bumper to secure the two screws to the piece of plastic inside the bumper. He said to make sure that the hole is waterproof.
I don't like this solution for many reasons.
My Model 3 has the tow hitch panel, so in theory I could stick the sensor on the inside of the panel. Using the fish tape I would thread the cable thru the larger right hole together with right strut cable. Sounds like a plan?
He said to remove the trunk trim, then make a hole to pass thru the foot sensor cable out underneath the car. You'd still have to remove the bumper to secure the two screws to the piece of plastic inside the bumper. He said to make sure that the hole is waterproof.
I don't like this solution for many reasons.
- Running the cable under the car like that is a recipe for disaster. The cable can snag on a fallen branch, etc. You could secure it with (black) duct tape all the way to the hole but it's ugly and unprofessional .
- You still have to remove the bumper to attach the screws---in doing that you may as well drill a hole where the cable leaves the sensor and feed it into the bumper thru a grommet which you also seal with silicone. Much neater and safer than doing the way in the photos.
- The sensor is outside. I prefer the clean lines of the Model 3 instead of having a piece of visible plastic stuck to the underside.
My Model 3 has the tow hitch panel, so in theory I could stick the sensor on the inside of the panel. Using the fish tape I would thread the cable thru the larger right hole together with right strut cable. Sounds like a plan?
All of the adjustments or tinkering with the rubber pieces/shocks, seem to be a possible way to introduce sealing issues. I'd guess the factory puts these there for a reason and to loosen or remove them is a bit unsettling. The new motorized latch and struts are unlikely to make up for the intended functionality of these parts. I think it's best to leave all these in tact and test to see if there are any issues before lessening or removing their intended functionality.
The suggestion to mount the foot sensor outside in the open like that appears to be a bad idea and not sure why they would tell anyone this. On the TeslaOffer unit, I ran the foot sensor cable through the oval blue rubber grommet on the right side behind the bumper and mounted sensor inside the panel and nothing is visible, no holes drilled, all water tight. Can't see any reason the Hansshow unit can't be mounted the same way.
The suggestion to mount the foot sensor outside in the open like that appears to be a bad idea and not sure why they would tell anyone this. On the TeslaOffer unit, I ran the foot sensor cable through the oval blue rubber grommet on the right side behind the bumper and mounted sensor inside the panel and nothing is visible, no holes drilled, all water tight. Can't see any reason the Hansshow unit can't be mounted the same way.
Appreciate your contribution to the installation
I reckon as long as you do not see any light ingress into the trunk with the back seats down, you can be confident that water would not ingress as well. I'll do the following test in a dark garage or at night time.
- Close trunk lid.
- Fold down rear seats.
- Ask someone to shine a torch along the gap between lid and chassis while you try and spot any light coming thru from the back seats.
- Adjust the appropriate rubber knob if you see any light and retest.
Good suggestion. An additional step is when you wash your car next, crawl into trunk through rear seats and see if there's any water coming in. Water will travel a different path than light.
On a separate note, I'd recommend buying some a protectant/lubricant for the weather seals like GummiPfleger (google it if you've never heard of it.) especially if your struts are making contact with your weather seal. GummiPfleger is great stuff and I'd recommend the Sonax brand.
That seems totally crazy - no way I would do this. I think (as mentioned below and shown on some videos) it should be possible to install the foot sensor inside the bumper and reasonably easily *except* having to remove the bumper during installRegarding the V4 foot sensor ... the only installation instructions I could find on the Hansshow website is this page which isn't the V4 version as you have to tap a couple of wires. When I asked William@Hansshow on WhatsApp about how to install the V4 foot sensor, he sent me these photos.
View attachment 565570 View attachment 565571 View attachment 565572
He said to remove the trunk trim, then make a hole to pass thru the foot sensor cable out underneath the car. You'd still have to remove the bumper to secure the two screws to the piece of plastic inside the bumper. He said to make sure that the hole is waterproof.
I don't like this solution for many reasons.
I asked William if the V4 sensor could be located inside the bumper (a la Frugal Tesla Guy's installation video by Mr Larry Lee) and he said yes---the V4 sensor is the same sensor as the previous versions. Like in the FTG video, you can stick it inside the bumper with double-sided tape.
- Running the cable under the car like that is a recipe for disaster. The cable can snag on a fallen branch, etc. You could secure it with (black) duct tape all the way to the hole but it's ugly and unprofessional
- You still have to remove the bumper to attach the screws---in doing that you may as well drill a hole where the cable leaves the sensor and feed it into the bumper thru a grommet which you also seal with silicone. Much neater and safer than doing the way in the photos.
- The sensor is outside. I prefer the clean lines of the Model 3 instead of having a piece of visible plastic stuck to the underside.
My Model 3 has the tow hitch panel, so in theory I could stick the sensor on the inside of the panel. Using the fish tape I would thread the cable thru the larger right hole together with right strut cable. Sounds like a plan?
I think the main rubber posts (the ones that are like a spring) exist only to “pop” the lid out of the latch when you unlock it (I’m talking about as it comes from the factory). Once you have motorized they aren’t needed and are understandably replaced.
But the ones that I was talking about above (that screw in/out to adjust the seal tightness) seem like you say - best left alone unless a tweak is needed.
I received v4 Hansshow trunk kit for my '20. Also received upgrade to v4 kit for my '18 which has v1 trunk kit.
I noted the different model years in the order. Both CAN adapters appear to be the same. Both are for '19+ ?
Is functionality different if CAN connector is not used with upgrade?
Good point. If the main rubber post springs are for helping the trunk push up only, then replacing is 100% fine. I was thinking they may also serve to stabilize the trunk lid while closed since they sit at the far corners of the trunk lid and push on it to create some stability.
The CANBUS connection is supposed to allow the control unit to know when the car is in gear and therefore not allow it to open. Presumably, if you don't plug it in you don't have this safety feature. Also, I don't think anyone has confirmed this feature is functioning yet on the Hansshow kit but that is the idea behind it. I don't think anyone on this forum has written about receiving a pre-2019 connector from Hansshow yet and possible they may not even have one at this point. Hopefully they'll make one soon.
apchoo
Member
Just did a little work on my trunk install tonight. Some notes:
it’s mostly simple! The latest install (unless I find something to change this viewpoint) has nothing daunting or difficult or irreversible or error prone. That’s really important.
it’s a bit unclear from the instructions. Not in an “I have no idea what to do” kind of way, but more a slight unnerving uneasiness about whether you’re doing it correctly. Videos and forums to the rescue.
it’s interesting. Any engineering curiosity will enjoy it. It’s like being a car hobbyist again, even just to look. Learning and hacking stuff is fun and educational. For example I removed the back seat this evening and it took less time and effort than unscrewing the back of a desk side clock. And underneath it I found this really interesting guts of the future car. A slight flux capacitor/Delorean experience. And yeah I get it, I was just installing a trunk not exploring time travel! But still it’s a motivating factor for doing this project, I suggest
I am trying to install and wire it all up and test, without actually permanently dealing with final touches like replacing all trim and doing all wiring in a final way. I think that’s smart to learn the main points first, and to verify it all works.
recording videos, and worrying about lighting, and working after 11pm, and dealing with a hot an humid night - not exciting or good !
I’ll keep sharing updates as I get the install more completed.
it’s mostly simple! The latest install (unless I find something to change this viewpoint) has nothing daunting or difficult or irreversible or error prone. That’s really important.
it’s a bit unclear from the instructions. Not in an “I have no idea what to do” kind of way, but more a slight unnerving uneasiness about whether you’re doing it correctly. Videos and forums to the rescue.
it’s interesting. Any engineering curiosity will enjoy it. It’s like being a car hobbyist again, even just to look. Learning and hacking stuff is fun and educational. For example I removed the back seat this evening and it took less time and effort than unscrewing the back of a desk side clock. And underneath it I found this really interesting guts of the future car. A slight flux capacitor/Delorean experience. And yeah I get it, I was just installing a trunk not exploring time travel! But still it’s a motivating factor for doing this project, I suggest
I am trying to install and wire it all up and test, without actually permanently dealing with final touches like replacing all trim and doing all wiring in a final way. I think that’s smart to learn the main points first, and to verify it all works.
recording videos, and worrying about lighting, and working after 11pm, and dealing with a hot an humid night - not exciting or good !
I’ll keep sharing updates as I get the install more completed.
This is pic received from Hansshow
"This is the line replacement picture of CANBUS in 2018".
This is upgrade trunk to v4. new latch/sd card for software upgrade/CAN-obd connector.
This is CAN connector for full v4 trunk kit on left and CAN connector for upgrade kit. Both appear to be what they call 2018 connector.
I requested full kit for my model year 2020 and upgrade for my 2018.
Will report back.
"This is the line replacement picture of CANBUS in 2018".
This is upgrade trunk to v4. new latch/sd card for software upgrade/CAN-obd connector.
This is CAN connector for full v4 trunk kit on left and CAN connector for upgrade kit. Both appear to be what they call 2018 connector.
I requested full kit for my model year 2020 and upgrade for my 2018.
Will report back.