Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

[lkstaack]

Been waiting patiently for my frunk kit to come and TeslaOffer updated me that it is almost ready. They've been revamping the kit (Mk.3) which includes some new features. As some of you know, the water-proofing solution for both companies had room for improvement. Hansshow came up with a silicone/rubber accordion sleeve around the control box which probably is a reasonable solution. TeslaOffer has redesigned the entire electronics box for water-proofness which seems to be a better solution. I understand there are further improvements to noise reduction and some other benefits for the Mk.3 so I am really looking forward to getting it.

I just installed my Tesla Offer (TO) funk, and it wasn't without issues. First as with the electric trunk, the kit doesn't come with instructions. Unlike the trunk kit though, TO had taken down their online instructions. They did have a video, but it was for the older version.

TO may have updated their e-box, but it doesn't really look like it; it looks similar in construction to the trunk e-box. I used their plastic bag work-around, but that's a micky mouse solution; I like the Hansshow rubber pouch solution a lot better.

I ordered the kit with the Homelink option. Since I really didn't know how this option was supposed to work, I didn't know what to expect. The kit came with a module that wasn't covered in the video, so I guessed that was part of the Homelink option. I could deduct where it was supposed to plug into because there was only one connector it would fit into, but I wasn't sure where it was supposed to be mounted. The module had three wires coming out of it, but only two access holes; two of the wires shared a hole. As I handled the module, one of the two wires sharing a hole came off. Opening the enclosure relieved that it had come off a terminal secured by a screw; one of the five terminals in the module.


I attempted to contact TO via WhatsApp to find out which terminal the wire was supposed to connect to, and where the module was supposed to mount. Because of the time difference, it took 8 hours for them to respond. In the mean time, I guessed where it was supposed to connect and mount. It turns out that I guessed right; black wire to the first terminal and I mounted the module near where TO recommends mounting the buzzer. I also used a small file to create a hole for the third wire.

I also guessed how the frunk Homelink option is supposed to work. You need to set it up like it's a garage door. I was able to get Homelink to close the frunk, but not open it. But, the only way I was able to open the frunk was with the Tesla App; the M3 screen kept reporting that the frunk was open (even when it was closed) and wouldn't open up from the screen.

I was able to get all my questions answered when TO finally responded on WhatsApp. They confirmed where the wire is supposed to go and that it doesn't matter where the Homelink module is mounted (though it comes with a super-long cable). They also recommend wrapping the module in electrical tape to make it water resistant. The reason my frunk wasn't opening was because the TO frunk close connector allowed the male connector to pull away from the female, even when the connector was snapped in place. I had to push in the connector and tape it.

With the Homelink option, opening and closing the frunk isn't the most intuitive. You can use the onboard screen with the M3 outline to open the frunk, but then you must use the Homelink to close it. Kind of funky. But then TO installation solutions are kind of funky too (though Hansshow doesn't seem to be better in most cases).

 

[tlr1000]

I just installed my Tesla Offer (TO) funk, and it wasn't without issues. First as with the electric trunk, the kit doesn't come with instructions. Unlike the trunk kit though, TO had taken down their online instructions. They did have a video, but it was for the older version.

TO may have updated their e-box, but it doesn't really look like it; it looks similar in construction to the trunk e-box. I used their plastic bag work-around, but that's a micky mouse solution; I like the Hansshow rubber pouch solution a lot better.

I ordered the kit with the Homelink option. Since I really didn't know how this option was supposed to work, I didn't know what to expect. The kit came with a module that wasn't covered in the video, so I guessed that was part of the Homelink option. I could deduct where it was supposed to plug into because there was only one connector it would fit into, but I wasn't sure where it was supposed to be mounted. The module had three wires coming out of it, but only two access holes; two of the wires shared a hole. As I handled the module, one of the two wires sharing a hole came off. Opening the enclosure relieved that it had come off a terminal secured by a screw; one of the five terminals in the module.
View attachment 562127

I attempted to contact TO via WhatsApp to find out which terminal the wire was supposed to connect to, and where the module was supposed to mount. Because of the time difference, it took 8 hours for them to respond. In the mean time, I guessed where it was supposed to connect and mount. It turns out that I guessed right; black wire to the first terminal and I mounted the module near where TO recommends mounting the buzzer. I also used a small file to create a hole for the third wire.
View attachment 562126
I also guessed how the frunk Homelink option is supposed to work. You need to set it up like it's a garage door. I was able to get Homelink to close the frunk, but not open it. But, the only way I was able to open the frunk was with the Tesla App; the M3 screen kept reporting that the frunk was open (even when it was closed) and wouldn't open up from the screen.

I was able to get all my questions answered when TO finally responded on WhatsApp. They confirmed where the wire is supposed to go and that it doesn't matter where the Homelink module is mounted (though it comes with a super-long cable). They also recommend wrapping the module in electrical tape to make it water resistant. The reason my frunk wasn't opening was because the TO frunk close connector allowed the male connector to pull away from the female, even when the connector was snapped in place. I had to push in the connector and tape it.

With the Homelink option, opening and closing the frunk isn't the most intuitive. You can use the onboard screen with the M3 outline to open the frunk, but then you must use the Homelink to close it. Kind of funky. But then TO installation solutions are kind of funky too (though Hansshow doesn't seem to be better in most cases).

Thanks for sharing your experience. Maybe I'll have to hit you up for pointers when mine arrives .

They told me they updated the control box but there are no pictures or video of it online yet. It's supposed to be announced shortly. Will have to see if it's a better or worse solution. No doubt the Hansshow rubber pouch is way better than the anti-static packing bag so it will be interesting to see their new solution. I like the idea of a waterproof control box more than a rubber pouch but it all depends on the execution.

I too ordered the Homelink option but I know they also have an option to open and close the frunk using the touchscreen by "injecting a signal" whatever that means. Maybe I should have just gone for that option. Sucks about the loose wire but glad you figured it out. I would have been worried I'd guess wrong and fry something. As for Homelink module location, generally those garage door systems have fairly long range and my guess is that you can even mount it inside the car under the dash somewhere (yes more work running wire through firewall but at least no moisture issue - I might do that).

Installation instructions and videos from both companies seem to focus on the easiest shortcut rather than the most reliable installation method so yes, kind of funky. For the trunk, I watched tons of videos and from there took bits and pieces from each video on what would work best and modified my own install method. Will do the same for the frunk. After installing trunk, I hope the frunk is not more difficult - please tell me it isn't.

 

[lkstaack]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Maybe I'll have to hit you up for pointers when mine arrives .

They told me they updated the control box but there are no pictures or video of it online yet. It's supposed to be announced shortly. Will have to see if it's a better or worse solution. No doubt the Hansshow rubber pouch is way better than the anti-static packing bag so it will be interesting to see their new solution. I like the idea of a waterproof control box more than a rubber pouch but it all depends on the execution.

I too ordered the Homelink option but I know they also have an option to open and close the frunk using the touchscreen by "injecting a signal" whatever that means. Maybe I should have just gone for that option. Sucks about the loose wire but glad you figured it out. I would have been worried I'd guess wrong and fry something. As for Homelink module location, generally those garage door systems have fairly long range and my guess is that you can even mount it inside the car under the dash somewhere (yes more work running wire through firewall but at least no moisture issue - I might do that).

Installation instructions and videos from both companies seem to focus on the easiest shortcut rather than the most reliable installation method so yes, kind of funky. For the trunk, I watched tons of videos and from there took bits and pieces from each video on what would work best and modified my own install method. Will do the same for the frunk. After installing trunk, I hope the frunk is not more difficult - please tell me it isn't.

The frunk is a lot easier than the trunk. It doesn't have a CAN Bus connection and everything comes off easily in the frunk (did you have problems with the CAN Bus PnP like me?). I spent way to much time routing the wires and then rerouting them so they are intrusive. I wish I had watched this Youtube video from Electrified Garage prior to my install.

.

I received my control box the week before last. It isn't water tight. Maybe I got the last of the old ones?


As mentioned previously, TO installation instructions advise actions that will cause their units to eventually fail. I guess they figure they'll be out of business when it does. Like the trunk, the TO solution for most mounting problems is double-sided tape. This may be OK for lightweight items in a dry location, but the mounts for heavy objects accessible to the elements will eventually fail. I tried to prolong these mounts by using liberal amounts of silicone adhesive around them.

 

[tlr1000]

The frunk is a lot easier than the trunk. It doesn't have a CAN Bus connection and everything comes off easily in the frunk (did you have problems with the CAN Bus PnP like me?). I spent way to much time routing the wires and then rerouting them so they are intrusive. I wish I had watched this Youtube video from Electrified Garage prior to my install.

.

I received my control box the week before last. It isn't water tight. Maybe I got the last of the old ones?
View attachment 562140

As mentioned previously, TO installation instructions advise actions that will cause their units to eventually fail. I guess they figure they'll be out of business when it does. Like the trunk, the TO solution for most mounting problems is double-sided tape. This may be OK for lightweight items in a dry location, but the mounts for heavy objects accessible to the elements will eventually fail. I tried to prolong these mounts by using liberal amounts of silicone adhesive around them.
View attachment 562138

My CANBUS was quite straight forward. They gave me the proper pre-2019 connector and I ran the wire from the right side rear trunk, through rear right door/seat area, along base of rear seat toward center of rear seat, then under carpet from center rear seat to the console. Hardest part was the short run under the carpet (their video had a slightly different path).

Double sided tape can be pretty effective if surfaces are prepped (alcohol or even better, adhesion promoter) and it's good quality tape like VHB. That stuff is incredibly strong and if it can hold down a body part like the oem rear spoiler, it should be ok for this application. That being said I think its smart to add silicone. And you weren't kidding about liberal...lol

Your control box is one of the old ones. The new one is not even released - be another week or two as I understand.

As for being in business for the long haul, I think they are around to stay even though some of the install instructions are not the most ideal. I was at a small Model 3 meet last night and ended up talking to someone who knew these TO guys and he gave me some history that their company has been around much prior to the Model 3 itself so they have a lot of knowledge about Tesla cars in general. Also seems they are making consistent efforts to improve their products over time.

Maybe they should do videos with the best way to install and give people verbal options for the shortcuts.

 

[William_Chan]

The first video I saw for a power trunk, I thought that is super convenient and wish it was installed as a factory option. But my initial view was that these kits were just too expensive so I ended up with the stronger struts that force the trunk/frunk lids to raise up on greater pressure. I did recognize this was for up only. The stronger struts were nice but very first thing I noticed was the additional effort needed now to close the frunk/trunk and whether this would cause any long-term issues. I decided I would just live with that and then seasons/temperatures change and then these struts became less effective in popping the frunk/trunk open to the point they didn't open automatically anymore. Also, if I didn't open the frunk/trunk for a while, it also affected the effectiveness. With all these issues, it was time to rethink the power frunk/trunk mod.

First and foremost, the kits are expensive so you have to be prepared for that. For many, it's not good value but at the same time there are also many that like the convenience. In my research, I did not come across anyone who installed one of these kits feel regret for their decision.

My next decision was to decide between these 2 major sellers. I also noted that there are some available on AliExpress but those did not seem any more affordable so thought the best choice was either of these 2 sellers who both seem to have a strong online presence and provide good customer support.

Here are the differences I found between the two:

Cost: If you get the full set up from both companies, seems Hansshow is about 10% less money - win Hansshow.

Flexibility: both appear to open and close through the Tesla app, Tesla fob, optional foot sensor, and buttons located at frunk/trunk but Tesla Offer can close the frunk on the onboard screen. Tesla Offer appears to do this through built-in Homelink or recently just by touching the hood icon on the onboard screen. I really appreciate this functionality in this pandemic situation where I can pull up an online order for curbside pick up and I have the option of having someone load it into the frunk where I can open/close remotely. I guess you can do this through the phone app for the Hansshow but I like the additional convenience of using the onboard screen. - win Tesla Offer.

Quality: from what I've seen, the component quality is very similar in appearance but Tesla Offer chose to encase the rear strut in a soft material (silicone or rubber) cover. As the rear struts are mounted near the weather strip in the back, the contact of the hard strut on the Hansshow kit may cause more wear and tear to the weather stripping - win Tesla Offer.

Usability: Both units do what they are supposed to do which is open and close your frunk/trunk. From what I've seen, the Hansshow implementation of the trunk has this toggling of status between open and opened which means 1/2 the time (if in the wrong status) you cannot close the trunk so you would have to make additional attempts. Again, seems not to be an issue for many but I like it to be able to close by making a single attempt whether by foot-switch,app, or fob. Personally I would find it really annoying that I'd have to either wait for the right status or make more than 1 attempt to close my trunk but that's just me being picky and liking things to work as close to OEM as possible. - win Tesla Offer

Install: both appear to be similar for the install process which appear to be doable but I wouldn't describe as simple. The v3 Hansshow is reportedly more difficult to install than their previous versions due to wiring under the rear parcel shelf. The Tesla Offer system, being able to read status of the trunk, involves tapping into the canbus. Although this serves a purpose, doing so may make some nervous but at least this is an optional step. Doing the extra tap gives you the correct trunk status and eliminates that toggling issue previously mentioned. I know many either find it difficult or just uncomfortable to tap the canbus. What I did find out from contacting Tesla Offer is that on newer cars (2019 and 2020) there is a way to do a plug and play canbus tap at the very back/bottom of the console. There's a panel there that's easy to access and newer cars have a 26 pin molex whereas older cars (like mine) have a 20 pin. You can tap the canbus with the 26 pin connector. This is really a matter of preference. V3 Hansshow is now harder to install compared to before and professional installers are actually charging more to install the v3 Hansshow than their previous versions. Tesla Offer requires tapping canbus but at least some cars will be easier. Winner - tie.

Overall, at least for me, the positives of the Tesla Offer system providing smoother operation by being able to read via canbus, more protective rear strut assemblies, screen option to close the frunk, etc, outweighs the negatives of slightly extra cost and complexity of tapping the canbus. The better protection of the weather-seal could mean the price difference for the two systems if it gets damaged.

Full Tesla Offer kit ordered! My advice is don't look at price alone. Compare all the differences and figure out what's important to you before choosing. Also, look at lots of reviews but keep in mind some are from people that have been given free product and even when they provide full disclosure, there is still a bias.

Hansshow latest version Frunk V3 can open and close the frunk on the console screen button.
V4 Trunk has CANBUS plug. Foot sensor, key fob can work 100%.
With the best soft close function and quiet strut.

The reason why we use the aluminum shell is that it can work for over 10 years.
We had use the rubber shell before, but we do not use that anymore, because rubber life is a problem, it may broken 1 or 2 years later.

The first video I saw for a power trunk, I thought that is super convenient and wish it was installed as a factory option. But my initial view was that these kits were just too expensive so I ended up with the stronger struts that force the trunk/frunk lids to raise up on greater pressure. I did recognize this was for up only. The stronger struts were nice but very first thing I noticed was the additional effort needed now to close the frunk/trunk and whether this would cause any long-term issues. I decided I would just live with that and then seasons/temperatures change and then these struts became less effective in popping the frunk/trunk open to the point they didn't open automatically anymore. Also, if I didn't open the frunk/trunk for a while, it also affected the effectiveness. With all these issues, it was time to rethink the power frunk/trunk mod.

First and foremost, the kits are expensive so you have to be prepared for that. For many, it's not good value but at the same time there are also many that like the convenience. In my research, I did not come across anyone who installed one of these kits feel regret for their decision.

My next decision was to decide between these 2 major sellers. I also noted that there are some available on AliExpress but those did not seem any more affordable so thought the best choice was either of these 2 sellers who both seem to have a strong online presence and provide good customer support.

Here are the differences I found between the two:

Cost: If you get the full set up from both companies, seems Hansshow is about 10% less money - win Hansshow.

Flexibility: both appear to open and close through the Tesla app, Tesla fob, optional foot sensor, and buttons located at frunk/trunk but Tesla Offer can close the frunk on the onboard screen. Tesla Offer appears to do this through built-in Homelink or recently just by touching the hood icon on the onboard screen. I really appreciate this functionality in this pandemic situation where I can pull up an online order for curbside pick up and I have the option of having someone load it into the frunk where I can open/close remotely. I guess you can do this through the phone app for the Hansshow but I like the additional convenience of using the onboard screen. - win Tesla Offer.

Quality: from what I've seen, the component quality is very similar in appearance but Tesla Offer chose to encase the rear strut in a soft material (silicone or rubber) cover. As the rear struts are mounted near the weather strip in the back, the contact of the hard strut on the Hansshow kit may cause more wear and tear to the weather stripping - win Tesla Offer.

Usability: Both units do what they are supposed to do which is open and close your frunk/trunk. From what I've seen, the Hansshow implementation of the trunk has this toggling of status between open and opened which means 1/2 the time (if in the wrong status) you cannot close the trunk so you would have to make additional attempts. Again, seems not to be an issue for many but I like it to be able to close by making a single attempt whether by foot-switch,app, or fob. Personally I would find it really annoying that I'd have to either wait for the right status or make more than 1 attempt to close my trunk but that's just me being picky and liking things to work as close to OEM as possible. - win Tesla Offer

Install: both appear to be similar for the install process which appear to be doable but I wouldn't describe as simple. The v3 Hansshow is reportedly more difficult to install than their previous versions due to wiring under the rear parcel shelf. The Tesla Offer system, being able to read status of the trunk, involves tapping into the canbus. Although this serves a purpose, doing so may make some nervous but at least this is an optional step. Doing the extra tap gives you the correct trunk status and eliminates that toggling issue previously mentioned. I know many either find it difficult or just uncomfortable to tap the canbus. What I did find out from contacting Tesla Offer is that on newer cars (2019 and 2020) there is a way to do a plug and play canbus tap at the very back/bottom of the console. There's a panel there that's easy to access and newer cars have a 26 pin molex whereas older cars (like mine) have a 20 pin. You can tap the canbus with the 26 pin connector. This is really a matter of preference. V3 Hansshow is now harder to install compared to before and professional installers are actually charging more to install the v3 Hansshow than their previous versions. Tesla Offer requires tapping canbus but at least some cars will be easier. Winner - tie.

Overall, at least for me, the positives of the Tesla Offer system providing smoother operation by being able to read via canbus, more protective rear strut assemblies, screen option to close the frunk, etc, outweighs the negatives of slightly extra cost and complexity of tapping the canbus. The better protection of the weather-seal could mean the price difference for the two systems if it gets damaged.

Full Tesla Offer kit ordered! My advice is don't look at price alone. Compare all the differences and figure out what's important to you before choosing. Also, look at lots of reviews but keep in mind some are from people that have been given free product and even when they provide full disclosure, there is still a bias.

Hansshow latest version Frunk V3 can open and close the frunk on the console screen button, no need HomeLink.

V4 Trunk has CANBUS plug.
For this version:
Foot sensor, key fob can work 100%.
Foot sensor would not work in low speed, trunk would not open accidently when you are driving.
The trunk motor is very quiet, close action is very soft.

The reason why we use the aluminum shell is that it have a longer use-life, it can work for over 10 years.
We had use the rubber shell on other car power trunk before, but we do not use that anymore, because rubber life is a problem, it may be broken 1 or 2 years later.

If you do not like the trunk blink function, just need to cut the green wire on the main harness. The reason why we make the screen button blink function just wants the user can check the trunk open and close status easier.

We provide 2 version power trunk, DIY version and professional verion.

For the DIY version, we put fish wire in the box, very easy to do the installation, but you need to connect the signal wire yourself.
For the professional version, everything are plug & play installation, but you need speed some time to install the rear plug near to the speaker.
For more details, please click here:
Tesla model 3 automatic frunk and trunk

 

[tlr1000]

Hansshow latest version Frunk V3 can open and close the frunk on the console screen button.
V4 Trunk has CANBUS plug. Foot sensor, key fob can work 100%.
With the best soft close function and quiet strut.

The reason why we use the aluminum shell is that it can work for over 10 years.
We had use the rubber shell before, but we do not use that anymore, because rubber life is a problem, it may broken 1 or 2 years later.

Hansshow latest version Frunk V3 can open and close the frunk on the console screen button, no need HomeLink.

V4 Trunk has CANBUS plug.
For this version:
Foot sensor, key fob can work 100%.
Foot sensor would not work in low speed, trunk would not open accidently when you are driving.
The trunk motor is very quiet, close action is very soft.

The reason why we use the aluminum shell is that it have a longer use-life, it can work for over 10 years.
We had use the rubber shell on other car power trunk before, but we do not use that anymore, because rubber life is a problem, it may be broken 1 or 2 years later.

If you do not like the trunk blink function, just need to cut the green wire on the main harness. The reason why we make the screen button blink function just wants the user can check the trunk open and close status easier.

We provide 2 version power trunk, DIY version and professional verion.

For the DIY version, we put fish wire in the box, very easy to do the installation, but you need to connect the signal wire yourself.
For the professional version, everything are plug & play installation, but you need speed some time to install the rear plug near to the speaker.
For more details, please click here:
Tesla model 3 automatic frunk and trunk

Thanks for the update. Sounds like both companies constantly improve which is a good thing. I am wondering what the reason was for going the CANBUS route for v4? I thought Hansshow was against the CANBUS connection due to warranty concerns? I believe I have seen comments saying "ours is better as it doesn't connect to the CAN and therefore won't void Tesla's warranty".

 

[univ0298]

I am wondering what the reason was for going the CANBUS route for v4? I thought Hansshow was against the CANBUS connection due to warranty concerns? I believe I have seen comments saying "ours is better as it doesn't connect to the CAN and therefore won't void Tesla's warranty".

My guess is that the relates to the older way of using CANBUS which required tapping into wires, and isn't valid any more since these days both products use a plug into the CANBUS below the back row A/C vents now.

 

[tlr1000]

My guess is that the relates to the older way of using CANBUS which required tapping into wires, and isn't valid any more since these days both products use a plug into the CANBUS below the back row A/C vents now.

Definitely a possibility but let's hear it from William as the way it came across seemed like a blanket statement that any connection to the CANBUS was a bad thing to do. Trying to get some insight on the direction change.

 

[nhooyr]

So which one do you guys recommend now then? I'm a complete beginner and I'm not really sure what to pick.

I'm in Toronto if anyone knows a good professional installer.

 

[William_Chan]

Thanks for the update. Sounds like both companies constantly improve which is a good thing. I am wondering what the reason was for going the CANBUS route for v4? I thought Hansshow was against the CANBUS connection due to warranty concerns? I believe I have seen comments saying "ours is better as it doesn't connect to the CAN and therefore won't void Tesla's warranty".

If you connect the CANBUS by cut the wire, it will against the warranty, but CANBUS plug would not have that problem.
With CANBUS plug, it can solve the foot sensor problem. Before that, foot sensor may work in low speed (under 5km/h), it have risk to open the trunk accidentally.
With CANBUS plug, foot sensor would not work when you are driving.

 

[tlr1000]

If you connect the CANBUS by cut the wire, it will against the warranty, but CANBUS plug would not have that problem.
With CANBUS plug, it can solve the foot sensor problem. Before that, foot sensor may work in low speed (under 5km/h), it have risk to open the trunk accidentally.
With CANBUS plug, foot sensor would not work when you are driving.

Thanks for clarifying. As far as I know, there has been no trunk kit that actually cut a wire. I believe TeslaOffer previously used a positap which poked a small pin-hole in the wire. If this posi-tap was removed it is almost impossible to notice the spot it was tapped. I asked a technician and they said no one would check every inch of wire to look for a pin-hole and they'd never find it nor have that kind of time to look for it. I'd be surprised if anyone has had their warranty denied by Tesla because of this. So I guess there was never a kit made by Hansshow, TeslaOffer, or anyone else that voided Tesla's warranty because of accessing a CANBUS signal. I'm glad Hansshow is now adopting the CANBUS tap as well.

I think they are both good kits but ultimately I chose the TeslaOffer because it had the CANBUS access benefits - when I ordered Hansshow didn't have this and still not sure if Hansshow has a CANBUS connector for pre-2019. I also like the TeslaOffer for the soft strut material. I understand their are pros and cons and the Hansshow full aluminum strut casing is longer lasting than the silicone material but I'd rather replace the strut if the silicone was damaged than replace the weather seal around the rear windshield. I suspect that rear weatherseal is more problematic and expensive to replace than a new strut. Yesterday I found a French YouTube video

comparing Hansshow vs TeslaOffer and the video showed close-up pictures of the rear window seal after 6 months ( at 4:44 in the video) and there appeared to be significant wear. That was the other reason I chose TeslaOffer.

 

[univ0298]

Thanks for clarifying. As far as I know, there has been no trunk kit that actually cut a wire. I believe TeslaOffer previously used a positap which poked a small pin-hole in the wire. If this posi-tap was removed it is almost impossible to notice the spot it was tapped. I asked a technician and they said no one would check every inch of wire to look for a pin-hole and they'd never find it nor have that kind of time to look for it. I'd be surprised if anyone has had their warranty denied by Tesla because of this. So I guess there was never a kit made by Hansshow, TeslaOffer, or anyone else that voided Tesla's warranty because of accessing a CANBUS signal. I'm glad Hansshow is now adopting the CANBUS tap as well.

I think they are both good kits but ultimately I chose the TeslaOffer because it had the CANBUS access benefits - when I ordered Hansshow didn't have this and still not sure if Hansshow has a CANBUS connector for pre-2019. I also like the TeslaOffer for the soft strut material. I understand their are pros and cons and the Hansshow full aluminum strut casing is longer lasting than the silicone material but I'd rather replace the strut if the silicone was damaged than replace the weather seal around the rear windshield. I suspect that rear weatherseal is more problematic and expensive to replace than a new strut. Yesterday I found a French YouTube video

comparing Hansshow vs TeslaOffer and the video showed close-up pictures of the rear window seal after 6 months ( at 4:44 in the video) and there appeared to be significant wear. That was the other reason I chose TeslaOffer.View attachment 564363

Your post is very good here. I think you’re exactly right that the old way of connecting to Canbus (only used by Tesla offer)was never really a problem. But some people maybe were intimidated or worried by it. It’s good that both companies are doing Canbus plug and play install now so they both have the safety feature and easy Install.

I will try to post some experiences of Hansshow trunk struts when I finish my install (half done) . I think you have a balanced viewpoint on pros /cons already though.

overall I think that price, support, and install guidance are starting to become the differentiating factors, more than the product itself. Both companies could do better with first-language install instructions and videos. I plan to try and add some useful videos and photos as I still think the stuff available online is imperfect or stale (older versions).

 

[tlr1000]

Your post is very good here. I think you’re exactly right that the old way of connecting to Canbus (only used by Tesla offer)was never really a problem. But some people maybe were intimidated or worried by it. It’s good that both companies are doing Canbus plug and play install now so they both have the safety feature and easy Install.

I will try to post some experiences of Hansshow trunk struts when I finish my install (half done) . I think you have a balanced viewpoint on pros /cons already though.

overall I think that price, support, and install guidance are starting to become the differentiating factors, more than the product itself. Both companies could do better with first-language install instructions and videos. I plan to try and add some useful videos and photos as I still think the stuff available online is imperfect or stale (older versions).

Totally agree @univ0298. Being intimidated by the positap CANBUS connect is up to the individual but I think some potential customers were scared into thinking this would jeopardize their warranty from Tesla and that was presented as fact rather than a needle in the haystack possibility. In my area, there is a reseller advertising on CL that their product will not void warranty because it doesn't "take power from the CAN" which no kit actually sources power from the CANBUS so typical scare tactic for sales.

From what I've read I think support is pretty close. I hear good things overall about Hansshow support and I know from experience TeslaOffer gives excellent support. TeslaOffer being in Hong Kong as a timezone difference yet still seem to be quite responsive whereas Hansshow has a presence in New York so they don't have that service delay problem.

Would be great to see any videos or information you post. Always good for me to learn from others.

As a side note, my frunk kit is coming by end of the week and I got a preview of what it looks like. The waterproofing solution TeslaOffer implemented is a waterproof enclosure rather than a silicone sleeve and rather than having 7 or 8 separate connectors to the box, it has 1 large connector. Looks like a great solution.

 

[univ0298]

All my Hansshow support has been from China actually - I'm not aware of any NY presence. But between Hanshow's flexibility (FaceTime calls at 10:45pm their time!) and mine (working at 3am isn't that unusual) it's worked out ok!

That TO frunk kit sounds significantly different from what they have on their website. https://teslaoffer.com/Manual/M3_Auto_Frunk/TESLA MODEL 3 ELECTRIC FRUNK INSTALLATION GUIDE v1.0.pdf (by the way the TO PDF is much better than Hanshow's !)

 

[tlr1000]

All my Hansshow support has been from China actually - I'm not aware of any NY presence. But between Hanshow's flexibility (FaceTime calls at 10:45pm their time!) and mine (working at 3am isn't that unusual) it's worked out ok!

That TO frunk kit sounds significantly different from what they have on their website. https://teslaoffer.com/Manual/M3_Auto_Frunk/TESLA MODEL 3 ELECTRIC FRUNK INSTALLATION GUIDE v1.0.pdf (by the way the TO PDF is much better than Hanshow's !)

I assumed it was New York based on @William_Chan's location in his profile. Maybe he can clarify New York vs China and where their tech support is. But if they're responsive, and sounds like they are, doesn't matter too much.

Yes, the new TO frunk kit is much different than what's on their website. I am assuming they have been focused on getting the new kit out and didn't have time to update their site. I'll post a picture when mine arrives but I assume any new frunk kit orders going forward would be their new version but probably best to confirm with them directly.

 

[Lombo2018]

Thanks guys for your postings, lots of good info. I ordered a frunk opener from TO I'm also expecting the new version.
I may be reaching out for help, so stand by. thanks again

 

[tlr1000]

Thanks guys for your postings, lots of good info. I ordered a frunk opener from TO I'm also expecting the new version.
I may be reaching out for help, so stand by. thanks again

By the time you get yours, I should have mine installed. I'll try to post any install tips/tricks along the way. By all the frunk install videos I've seen (both companies), appears that the provided wiring is quite long so I plan to spend a few extra minutes on tidy cable management. I think this is a worthwhile thing to do and like the trunk install I made some clips that will hold the strut cables to a flat surface where it's inconvenient to use zipties.

 

[tlr1000]

The eagle has landed. Shipped Monday from Hong Kong and arrived at my door 2 days later. Here's the new waterproof control box and note the single point connection. The oval shape on the left I assume is an LED and on the right it is the push-button for programming. Big improvement over the static bag.

 

[WhiteP3D]

The eagle has landed. Shipped Monday from Hong Kong and arrived at my door 2 days later. Here's the new waterproof control box and note the single point connection. The oval shape on the left I assume is an LED and on the right it is the push-button for programming. Big improvement over the static bag.
View attachment 564989 View attachment 564990

A weatherproof case with a single sealed connector. Very nice design. Wonder what the wire harness looks like. I guess it has multiple connectors for the power structs and latch motor. Are those sealed connectors?

 

[tlr1000]

Here's one of the main connector - it has a seal around the connector. Sure beats connecting all the separate molexes and has a sturdy lock mechanism. Will take more shots of the other end of the harness when I install the kit but suspect the connectors on the other end have not changed from before. The other major difference is the latch motor which is no longer a large rectangular enclosure. It looks to be 1/2 the size so maybe more location options for placement. Latch motor mechanism is 4" x 3" x 2".