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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

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The alert has been present ever since getting the v2.5 kit. The alert only shows in service mode under service alerts, so you won’t see it under the normal service menu or notifications.
Must be something different about my config I guess, though couldn’t tell you what. I’ve never had any alerts in service mode or otherwise about trunk lights.

My 3.0 kit turned up today, when EVOffer did finally ship it it arrived very quickly. Looks pretty daunting to fit. ☹️
 
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EVOffer have confirmed that the loom to the trunk lights aren’t needed once the Toolbox config is updated. Looks like I have a bit more work to do to remove the buzzer and reconnect the lights to the OEM loom. This will remove the soft alert from the service menu that thinks the lights aren’t working.
I noticed these alerts recently when I was in service mode during my Toolbox config a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for sharing. I will revert back to original connections based on this info. Did EVOffer explain why this was needed prior to the Toolbox config changes?
 
Must be something different about my config I guess, though couldn’t tell you what. I’ve never had any alerts in service mode or otherwise about trunk lights.

My 3.0 kit turned up today, when EVOffer did finally ship it it arrived very quickly. Looks pretty daunting to fit. ☹️
It’s possible that when your kit was fitted the person who fitted it didn’t bother attaching the loom to the trunk lights.

It looks harder than it is. The risk of something going wrong is low, but the impact is high if it does as you know. If you’re careful and patient you’ll be fine.

I noticed these alerts recently when I was in service mode during my Toolbox config a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for sharing. I will revert back to original connections based on this info. Did EVOffer explain why this was needed prior to the Toolbox config changes?
No, I suspect it’s to mitigate behaviour between the lights and the tailgate operation.
 
OEM as in the parts Tesla provide for the retrofit, or retrofit of the OEM powered trunk? Or the EVOffer 3.0 one?
I installed an official OEM Tesla power trunk retrofit
One you would get from the service center.
 

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So they actually just gave you the kit to fit yourself? Nice.

I know what I would guess but I think it would be as good as anyone else's. So I'd recommend getting input from Tesla directly on it.

I'm not planning on delving into Toolbox anytime soon, but if you can't wait then your best bet is to create an EU/UK service account with a different email address. You'd be able to access 1-hour for about £40 before conversion fees.
 
So they actually just gave you the kit to fit yourself? Nice.

I know what I would guess but I think it would be as good as anyone else's. So I'd recommend getting input from Tesla directly on it.

I'm not planning on delving into Toolbox anytime soon, but if you can't wait then your best bet is to create an EU/UK service account with a different email address. You'd be able to access 1-hour for about £40 before conversion fees.
Yeah actually Tesla refused for me to even purchase the kit/parts from them.
Somehow I found an entire Tesla OEM retrofit kit available on eBay don't know how the guy sourced it but I bought it up for $500.

Not sure if I want to make another email account and sign up for another Tesla account and whatnot.

Is there a UK specific forum or anything I can hit up anyone for?
 
Somehow I found an entire Tesla OEM retrofit kit available on eBay don't know how the guy sourced it but I bought it up for $500.
I see...would be interesting to see the difference between the OEM and aftermarket kit. Where does the ECU go and how do you get to the CANBUS?


Is there a UK specific forum or anything I can hit up anyone for?

There is a UK&I sub forum you can search for, but the members in that region likely to be using Toolbox are probably in this thread anyway. I might be wrong though.
 
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I see...would be interesting to see the difference between the OEM and aftermarket kit. Where does the ECU go and how do you get to the CANBUS?




There is a UK&I sub forum you can search for, but the members in that region likely to be using Toolbox are probably in this thread anyway. I might be wrong though.
ECU goes right behind the passenger tail light on a bracket that comes with the kit.
Canbus is just like any other aftermarket kit I'm sure, plugs into the rear center console.
This video was actually very helpful for installing:
 

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Still trying to build up the courage to do this.

Since I already have the 2.5 kit I need to work out what I am removing, in what order, etc. I presume I have to pull through the old cable that was a nightmare to get through the first time, before then pulling through the replacement one, etc.

Using @doats1 's post here as the basis for a howto guide.

Where do I situate the small ECU on the trunk lid? Is there an ideal or correct place for it? @doats1 said "[the] cable lengths have been adjusted so they're just right, which means no cable ties needed" which makes me think there's a right and wrong way to install this, but EVOffer don't provide any instructions or video to show retrofitting 2.5 to 3.0, and I tend to overthink things without guidance :)

Do I have to wire it up to the OEM lights like the old system? The suggestion seemed to be that with the Toolbox change this is no longer required? But does this mean I have to wire it up to the lights to begin with, verify it all works, change the config and then remove the lights from the circuit, etc?

Feel like an idiot for asking all these questions, but I'm not good at just getting stuck in to these sorts of things.
 
Still trying to build up the courage to do this.

Since I already have the 2.5 kit I need to work out what I am removing, in what order, etc. I presume I have to pull through the old cable that was a nightmare to get through the first time, before then pulling through the replacement one, etc.

Using @doats1 's post here as the basis for a howto guide.

Where do I situate the small ECU on the trunk lid? Is there an ideal or correct place for it? @doats1 said "[the] cable lengths have been adjusted so they're just right, which means no cable ties needed" which makes me think there's a right and wrong way to install this, but EVOffer don't provide any instructions or video to show retrofitting 2.5 to 3.0, and I tend to overthink things without guidance :)

Do I have to wire it up to the OEM lights like the old system? The suggestion seemed to be that with the Toolbox change this is no longer required? But does this mean I have to wire it up to the lights to begin with, verify it all works, change the config and then remove the lights from the circuit, etc?

Feel like an idiot for asking all these questions, but I'm not good at just getting stuck in to these sorts of things.

The first thing I would want to do in your situation is see if I can remove the cable that runs from the main ECU to the lid. Because if I can't remove that then at least I can just connect it back again. It's also the first thing I'd try to run through with the new kit, because if I can't then at least I haven't wasted energy on the other things. Fairy liquid and patience for both procedures will help a lot.

Small ECU - I just put it where I placed the previous one. It doesn't matter where you place it as long as you can get to it and there is a bit of slack on the cables. I'd personally avoid placing it on a surface that is exposed to the most heat to reduce the risk of the adhesive loosening though.

Boot lights - you need to check if it has been wired to the ECU or not. One of your previous posts suggested it might not have been done. But either way I don't think it will matter. It doesn't affect the actual boot operation. The cable that connects the lights to the the ECU is also what is used to power the buzzer for the v2.5 kit, which we know is not needed in v3. You can completely remove this cable from the main ECU as a result.

Once you've done it you'll realise how straightforward it is.
 
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Replacing the kit is far easier than fitting it from scratch. Just make sure you’re not working against a time line.
The trick is to remove both ends of the rubber tube from the chassis and to undo the two strips holding it in place. Don’t cut them, they can be opened and reused. When you pull out the old cables, make sure you attach another cable, or something that can be used to pull back the new harness cables.

There are a lot of YT videos showing the trunk kit installation. It’s more or less the same regardless of manufacturer. So might me an idea to scroll through some before you go ahead.

Good luck.
 
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One thing worth mentioning is that I installed 2024.14.6 yesterday and have the latest iOS app 4.33.0 on my phone. After the 2024.16.4 update I am not able to close the trunk from my phone.
It works fine with my Apple Watch Ultra and Watch app for Tesla app. And also from car screen etc. Just not the Tesla app on my phone. App visualisation on car screen and app are correct showing open/close etc. just that nothing happen when I tap to close from Tesla app.
 
One thing worth mentioning is that I installed 2024.14.6 yesterday and have the latest iOS app 4.33.0 on my phone. After the 2024.16.4 update I am not able to close the trunk from my phone.
It works fine with my Apple Watch Ultra and Watch app for Tesla app. And also from car screen etc. Just not the Tesla app on my phone. App visualisation on car screen and app are correct showing open/close etc. just that nothing happen when I tap to close from Tesla app.
I assume you haven't changed the gateway config to tell the car you have the OEM retrofit? (I have no idea if this is only safe with EVOffer's 3.0 kit, or earlier ones).

Tesla did similar with the frunk a while ago. You used to be able to open and close a powered frunk via the "open" button, which just sent the command dumbly. They changed it so that the button stopped working if you opened the frunk - on the basis that Tesla have never fitted a powered frunk to 3/Y/S/X.

I guess they're doing the same thing now with the trunk - i.e. only people who have an OEM powered trunk, or the powered trunk retrofit, get to have a button that has two active states.
 
Tesla did similar with the frunk a while ago. You used to be able to open and close a powered frunk via the "open" button, which just sent the command dumbly. They changed it so that the button stopped working if you opened the frunk - on the basis that Tesla have never fitted a powered frunk to 3/Y/S/X.
Not on both our MY and MS. Just tried the close button inside the frunk on both and they both work fine. The remote app buttons also opens and closes the frunk as well as the visual indicator showing them in the correct open or closed positions. I do have the latest and greatest firmware available on both cars. (2024.3.25) Have EV offers unit on both cars.
 
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