Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

[doats1]

On a slightly different note, after the install I noticed this gap between the rubber and the bumper. I'm not sure if it was the large before, should I be worried?

View attachment 1029437

It shouldn’t be that large but you should be able to adjust rubber back in. It might be that it hasn’t been re-fitted properly.

 

[Durzel]

Do you not have tracking information? I can see mine landed in the UK today so I’m hoping it gets delivered this week.

It’s not been shipped, so no. Sat on “Processing”.

 

[TSteve]

Getting a bit cheesed off with EVOffer now

I placed an order for this retrofit kit back at the start of February. In about a weeks time it will be 2 months since I placed the order. One can reasonably assume it’ll take almost another month to actually get here once it does ship (I didn’t pay for expedited shipping as it was considerably more, and didn’t think I’d need to).

Whilst initially responsive on Telegram, I haven’t had a reply from them since 21/03. Admittedly that wasn’t that long ago, but again - ~2 months past the point I placed an order and paid in full. It costs nothing for them to give me an update.

Don’t really know what to do at this point - they are the only source for the retrofit kit, which I am keen on getting, and they have only one way of contacting them. Raymond doesn’t seem to reply to anything directly anymore, as far as I can tell. Doesn’t instil me with much confidence.

That's been disappointing to hear as he's been very responsive to my questions, even after my purchase.

 

[doats1]

It’s not been shipped, so no. Sat on “Processing”.

That is odd and disappointing. I was given a DHL tracking number a couple days after ordering.

Have you asked for a tracking number?

 

[Durzel]

That is odd and disappointing. I was given a DHL tracking number a couple days after ordering.

Have you asked for a tracking number?

I was told it was backordered when I first contacted them on Telegram, a few days after ordering, after nothing had happened. It showed as in stock on the website, there was no indication that it wasn’t available.

I’ve been contacting them off and on since. I haven’t been pushing it because I’ve been busy and would no doubt have to build up the courage to fit it anyway, even after it has arrived. Having to wait days between replies on Telegram gives me anxiety over not only getting this order but support in the event I have any issues with it, now and in the future.

I’d never felt like that before with EVOffer. They were to my mind one of the reliable ones.

 

[doats1]

Anecdotally I'm still quite happy with their service, but at this stage I'd be on the phone to my credit card company.

 

[doats1]

So...my upgrade kit arrived today.

It was a bit of an effort but managed to fit it with no problems. The biggest issue for me was actually the tailgate panel and trying to get the clips back on.

I'm looking to make the Toolbox changes this weekend so if anyone wants to share a 1-hour pass, let me know. I would have to do a remote session because of the 2FA process but you can then do what you need to do after authenticating.

 

[Durzel]

So...my upgrade kit arrived today.

It was a bit of an effort but managed to fit it with no problems. The biggest issue for me was actually the tailgate panel and trying to get the clips back on.

I'm looking to make the Toolbox changes this weekend so if anyone wants to share a 1-hour pass, let me know. I would have to do a remote session because of the 2FA process but you can then do what you need to do after authenticating.

Nice one. I have to get that panel off to fit my inner global rear lights. What was the hard part with getting the clips back on, just tight?

Also can you remind me what you had before? I presume you took out the big control unit in the boot (near amp?) and replaced the “little ECU” behind the trim panel, and ran the new cable up the sheath again (removing the old one?)

 

[doats1]

Nice one. I have to get that panel off to fit my inner global rear lights. What was the hard part with getting the clips back on, just tight?

Also can you remind me what you had before? I presume you took out the big control unit in the boot (near amp?) and replaced the “little ECU” behind the trim panel, and ran the new cable up the sheath again (removing the old one?)

I'm almost certainly in the minority here but I prefer the pre-facelift rear lights.

Yeah not all of the clips came off with the panel, so negotiating them back onto the panel was annoying. EVOffer provif=de replacements but I wanted to keep as many spare as possible. Only one casualty so can't complain.

I had v2.5. So I needed to replace both ECU's and some cables. I have the poor man's Model 3 so no amp! But I presume it's wherever the amp would be.

80% of the connectors are the same apart from the one that goes to the buzzer and lights and of course the one that runs to the lid. I also had to switch all the cables connected to the lid buttons and the top latch because they run to the new small ECU. But that is not an issue; it's all self-explanatory and the connectors are all obvious. It would have been the easy part if I was starting from scratch. The cable lengths have been adjusted so they're just right, which means no cable ties needed.

The part that had me nervous was running the cable through the conduit twice. I was sure this was asking for trouble. But I lubed it up with Fairy Liquid and it just slipped out. Running the v3 cable was so much easier because it's PVC insulated rather than fabric.

Didn't have to do anything else except connect all the other cables and tidy things up. Works as normal, however some slight differences in behaviour:

The beep is different even though the buzzer wasn't replaced.
The minimum opening force is much more aggressive than v2.5. Noticeable but not an issue for me.
The latch motor is quieter during operation. Once again, wasn't replaced.
I'm pretty sure it opens a fraction quicker as well.

Happy overall.

 

[nicksp]

Do any of these add sensor based opening like moving your foot under the trunk area?

 

[doats1]

The foot sensor kit is separate to this. But it's been an available add-on for a while so you should be able to order it from EVOffer for earlier versions as well.

 

[TSteve]

I'm almost certainly in the minority here but I prefer the pre-facelift rear lights.

Yeah not all of the clips came off with the panel, so negotiating them back onto the panel was annoying. EVOffer provif=de replacements but I wanted to keep as many spare as possible. Only one casualty so can't complain.

I had v2.5. So I needed to replace both ECU's and some cables. I have the poor man's Model 3 so no amp! But I presume it's wherever the amp would be.

80% of the connectors are the same apart from the one that goes to the buzzer and lights and of course the one that runs to the lid. I also had to switch all the cables connected to the lid buttons and the top latch because they run to the new small ECU. But that is not an issue; it's all self-explanatory and the connectors are all obvious. It would have been the easy part if I was starting from scratch. The cable lengths have been adjusted so they're just right, which means no cable ties needed.

The part that had me nervous was running the cable through the conduit twice. I was sure this was asking for trouble. But I lubed it up with Fairy Liquid and it just slipped out. Running the v3 cable was so much easier because it's PVC insulated rather than fabric.

Didn't have to do anything else except connect all the other cables and tidy things up. Works as normal, however some slight differences in behaviour:

The beep is different even though the buzzer wasn't replaced.
The minimum opening force is much more aggressive than v2.5. Noticeable but not an issue for me.
The latch motor is quieter during operation. Once again, wasn't replaced.
I'm pretty sure it opens a fraction quicker as well.

Happy overall.

I'm regards to the buzzer, my 3.0 kit didn't come with one. I think it's just built into the box now.

 

[doats1]

I'm regards to the buzzer, my 3.0 kit didn't come with one. I think it's just built into the box now.

I just disconnected the old buzzer and you’re right there’s one built into the new ECU!

 

[TSteve]

I just disconnected the old buzzer and you’re right there’s one built into the new ECU!

Wow, you took the liner out just to check this? That's, IMO is the hardest trim to put back on. Raymond makes it look simple though in his videos. It took me about 10 minutes to get right.

 

[Durzel]

I'm almost certainly in the minority here but I prefer the pre-facelift rear lights.

Yeah not all of the clips came off with the panel, so negotiating them back onto the panel was annoying. EVOffer provif=de replacements but I wanted to keep as many spare as possible. Only one casualty so can't complain.

I had v2.5. So I needed to replace both ECU's and some cables. I have the poor man's Model 3 so no amp! But I presume it's wherever the amp would be.

80% of the connectors are the same apart from the one that goes to the buzzer and lights and of course the one that runs to the lid. I also had to switch all the cables connected to the lid buttons and the top latch because they run to the new small ECU. But that is not an issue; it's all self-explanatory and the connectors are all obvious. It would have been the easy part if I was starting from scratch. The cable lengths have been adjusted so they're just right, which means no cable ties needed.

The part that had me nervous was running the cable through the conduit twice. I was sure this was asking for trouble. But I lubed it up with Fairy Liquid and it just slipped out. Running the v3 cable was so much easier because it's PVC insulated rather than fabric.

Didn't have to do anything else except connect all the other cables and tidy things up. Works as normal, however some slight differences in behaviour:

The beep is different even though the buzzer wasn't replaced.
The minimum opening force is much more aggressive than v2.5. Noticeable but not an issue for me.
The latch motor is quieter during operation. Once again, wasn't replaced.
I'm pretty sure it opens a fraction quicker as well.

Happy overall.

That’s really comprehensive, thanks!

Surprised to hear that the latch motor is quieter, given the hardware isn’t changed. Maybe less activation force? Either way, an improvement.

I didn’t install my kit, had a forum member do it for me, and I’m probably a lot less hands on than you (took me several months to build up the courage to change my console).

Thanks again for the writeup, it’s really appreciated.

(Regards the pre-facelift lights, I didn’t mean the Highland lights, if that’s what you mean? I basically mean the 2022 on ones where the brake light are “C-type” rather than little lines, with the indicator taking up the whole horizontal bit. Twin reverse & fog lights too. Basically as in this video.)

 

[Durzel]

I'm regards to the buzzer, my 3.0 kit didn't come with one. I think it's just built into the box now.

So if you leave the buzzer connected you have two beeps? Why is it possible to have a buzzer connected if the new ECU does it anyway?

 

[doats1]

Wow, you took the liner out just to check this? That's, IMO is the hardest trim to put back on. Raymond makes it look simple though in his videos. It took me about 10 minutes to get right.

It’s a 30-second job if you place the ECU in the recommended spot.

(Regards the pre-facelift lights, I didn’t mean the Highland lights, if that’s what you mean? I basically mean the 2022 on ones where the brake light are “C-type” rather than little lines, with the indicator taking up the whole horizontal bit. Twin reverse & fog lights too. Basically as in this video.)

I mean the pre-highland facelift lights as you’ve pointed out. Not a fan.

So if you leave the buzzer connected you have two beeps? Why is it possible to have a buzzer connected if the new ECU does it anyway?

The same loom for the buzzer in v2.5 feeds the power to the trunk lights (not sure why this needs to happen). I wonder if this means this is just not needed at all.

 

[doats1]

EVOffer have confirmed that the loom to the trunk lights aren’t needed once the Toolbox config is updated. Looks like I have a bit more work to do to remove the buzzer and reconnect the lights to the OEM loom. This will remove the soft alert from the service menu that thinks the lights aren’t working.

 

[Durzel]

is that an alert that has just appeared after fitting the 3.0 kit? I have the 2.5 kit with the trunk lights connected to what I presume is the EVOffer kit (there is a spare OEM connector just hanging there unused on the left light) and don't have any alerts.

 

[doats1]

is that an alert that has just appeared after fitting the 3.0 kit? I have the 2.5 kit with the trunk lights connected to what I presume is the EVOffer kit (there is a spare OEM connector just hanging there unused on the left light) and don't have any alerts.

The alert has been present ever since getting the v2.5 kit. The alert only shows in service mode under service alerts, so you won’t see it under the normal service menu or notifications.