brainhouston
Active Member
Explain please, i fail to see how it affects the bearing since races will stop whatever torque u put on there...
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Help me diagnose possible high wh/mi highway usage
- Thread starter geordi
- Start date
brainhouston
Active Member
I agree with u in general but like i said earlier it depends on the bearing type
Tesla hubs are factory pre-loaded.
One of my hub bearings is a bit loose right now, i torqued it over spec to test, it still has play...
See this video of someone cutting it open, axle nut is not contributing to pre-load
Cool video, I look forward to watching that a little bit later. Preload really only matters with a tapered bearing like on a trailer. We’re talking about the axle nut which is compressing the inner race of the bearing and trying to basically crush it against the inside shoulder of the axle shaft. You would have to put so much force on that to cause deformation that you would break your tools before you reach that point.
They have to be manufactured properly and as stated, preload established at the factory with a gigantic press. There’s nothing that we are applying to these that moves the inside race against the outside race which loads the bearings themselves. The distance between the inside and outside race or side to side position is locked in from the factory.
As long as you are not trying to be a gorilla with a 10 foot pipe wrench, you’re not going to hurt these.
They have to be manufactured properly and as stated, preload established at the factory with a gigantic press. There’s nothing that we are applying to these that moves the inside race against the outside race which loads the bearings themselves. The distance between the inside and outside race or side to side position is locked in from the factory.
As long as you are not trying to be a gorilla with a 10 foot pipe wrench, you’re not going to hurt these.
Got the car back yesterday from Service..... And I promptly departed on another 1500 mile (one way) road trip. Return will be next week. I get to go back to service after that, because those numpties charged me for the CCS adapter kit, left the adapter in the back of the car (Ok, as I was expecting)..... But left the module and wiring IN THE BOX rather than installed and configured. I'd like to think that when they screw up it is an isolated thing, but EVERY TIME I go in for something? That's not a coincidence, that's a trend. *sigh*
Anyway.... Brought my thermal gun on this trip for giggles, and have been doing fairly consistent speeds. Not towing, nothing outside the car. AC is on, fan speeds are down around 2-5 depending.
The watts per mile have been fairly consistent right around 400, DESPITE an extended period at 50-65mph in rain in Florida (390wh/mi) or whipping along in Georgia at 85mph (415 wh/mi) yet last night further south in Florida when I first left, I was doing 80 (autopilot) and alone on the road.... and saw 480wh/mi again!
I'm stumped. I checked just now on the wheel temperatures after more than 30 miles from the last stop. 85mph, 395 wh/mi in South Carolina, and the wheel temperatures 1/10 of a mile from the exit ramp were: LF 125, LR 95, RF 105, RR 115
The difference is curious, but otherwise I don't think anything is dragging. The calipers (parking brake too) were colder. The centers were also colder - the warmest reading was the disc itself on each. For a 77 degree exterior temperature, that seems pretty good overall.
Don't really know where to look next - I think I may have to lean on virtual support again and see if they can find anything in the logs that would suggest a cause, b/c I'm still also not seeing the range that even Tessie claims for "real world" even though that HAD been pretty accurate before. Now it's 40+ miles high, consistently.
Lastly - as I'm posting this from a supercharger.... The car tosses a GTW_w174 at me, wanting me to schedule to replace the 12v battery. I've already replaced it (2 weeks ago) with an Ohmmu. Service also didn't say boo about that, and I'm 550 miles into this trip with no other errors... So I'm going to message Ohmmu about this new glitch.
Anyway.... Brought my thermal gun on this trip for giggles, and have been doing fairly consistent speeds. Not towing, nothing outside the car. AC is on, fan speeds are down around 2-5 depending.
The watts per mile have been fairly consistent right around 400, DESPITE an extended period at 50-65mph in rain in Florida (390wh/mi) or whipping along in Georgia at 85mph (415 wh/mi) yet last night further south in Florida when I first left, I was doing 80 (autopilot) and alone on the road.... and saw 480wh/mi again!
I'm stumped. I checked just now on the wheel temperatures after more than 30 miles from the last stop. 85mph, 395 wh/mi in South Carolina, and the wheel temperatures 1/10 of a mile from the exit ramp were: LF 125, LR 95, RF 105, RR 115
The difference is curious, but otherwise I don't think anything is dragging. The calipers (parking brake too) were colder. The centers were also colder - the warmest reading was the disc itself on each. For a 77 degree exterior temperature, that seems pretty good overall.
Don't really know where to look next - I think I may have to lean on virtual support again and see if they can find anything in the logs that would suggest a cause, b/c I'm still also not seeing the range that even Tessie claims for "real world" even though that HAD been pretty accurate before. Now it's 40+ miles high, consistently.
Lastly - as I'm posting this from a supercharger.... The car tosses a GTW_w174 at me, wanting me to schedule to replace the 12v battery. I've already replaced it (2 weeks ago) with an Ohmmu. Service also didn't say boo about that, and I'm 550 miles into this trip with no other errors... So I'm going to message Ohmmu about this new glitch.
