I dealt with it by using a jack to help me align the top hat against the FUCA mount and using a thin 13mm socket from Ko-ken (2300MZ-13). My new front damper assemblies came with pretty crooked top hats because the springs were not flat on the top, so I had to use substantial force from the jack to help mate the top hat against the FUCA mount. The jack pushes the bottom of the damper assembly towards the FUCA mount. The studs have to be almost perfectly coaxial with the holes for the socket to be able to spin the nuts onto the studs. Without a jack there's no way to defeat the spring force that is causing the top hat to be misaligned with the FUCA mount. However, the axial alignment continues to improve as tighten whichever of the nuts you can tighten at the start, because the nuts are pulling the top hat up, incrementally overcoming the spring and making the top hat flat against the FUCA mount.
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Highland suspension on 2019 Model 3
- Thread starter Guod
- Start date
When I had my Koni front shocks installed they took whole FUCA mount of as there was no room for sockets to get just top mount off.. My next mission might be these highland suspension parts so is it better to do same way or drill narrow openings on top more open to get sockers past sheet metal on top of topmounts?
I believe newer model 3s also have larger holes. So you should be good to use any standard socket.
superflyrolla
Member
^Interesting. I'm sure that's a common service complaint. If you have attempted to make the minimal adjustment to camber/caster by moving the mount at those holes, they can be misaligned even more.
I tried going through those holes in the chassis at the 13mm nuts one time. IMO way easier to take the whole FUCA mount out. I've swapped front suspension probably 6+ times.
I tried going through those holes in the chassis at the 13mm nuts one time. IMO way easier to take the whole FUCA mount out. I've swapped front suspension probably 6+ times.
getting same pricing in UK. Tesla must have raised prices.
What version of model 3 you upgrading from?
So I ordered Tein EnduraPro adjustable dampers a while back and have so far only fitted the rears.
I'm now wondering whether to install the Tein dampers to the front or get the highland shocks instead (easier as they're fully assembled).
Also, if I go with the Tein shocks, curious if there's any difference between my 2021 LR springs and the highland springs?
Any advice appreciated, especially from anyone who has installed the Tiens....
I'm now wondering whether to install the Tein dampers to the front or get the highland shocks instead (easier as they're fully assembled).
Also, if I go with the Tein shocks, curious if there's any difference between my 2021 LR springs and the highland springs?
Any advice appreciated, especially from anyone who has installed the Tiens....
And in case anyone is wondering, my opinion of just installing the Tein rear dampers (on a softish setting) is that they are certainly squishier, but most importantly lessen the car "shimmying" effect. Not sure I feel much difference in the bumps though, but how much difference can rear dampers make?
The rear dampers have always been the weakest point with the original Model 3. Personally, I'd forget about the Teins and fit Highland dampers all round.
As one of the first adopters of Tein EnduraPro Plus on a Model 3 (and OP of the main Tein thread), I'd say the highland suspension is superior. Plus getting a whole assembled strut and not having to screw around with spring compressors is almost worth it by itself.
Bear in mind, I drive a Highland now, so I can't say how much of the improvement in the 2024 comes from the new springs/shocks and how much comes from bushings and rubber isolators throughout the suspension and subframe that were also improved in the Highland.
Help! I do the occasional tree shade mechanical work but this will be my first suspension job. I've gotten the Highland front struts and rear damper, the requisite bolts, ordered the various sockets including a thin wall 13mm socket. I have my digital torque wrench, breaker bars, torzlx bits and even brought an electric ratchet wrench and proper cordless torque wrench. So I am Ready. Until I see this in the Tesla manual.
I see no one has mentioned the use of a hub jack adapter nor the significance of 423mm ride height. (See below pic) None of the multiple YT says anything about it but then again they're after market product installs. Is it merely just to get the lower strut bolt aligned?? Is it important for my task to retrofit Highland dampers onto my 18LRAWD? If really needed for ride height setting, could I not just jack up via the LUCA to get to the 423mm and then torque everything up? Thanks in advance.
I see no one has mentioned the use of a hub jack adapter nor the significance of 423mm ride height. (See below pic) None of the multiple YT says anything about it but then again they're after market product installs. Is it merely just to get the lower strut bolt aligned?? Is it important for my task to retrofit Highland dampers onto my 18LRAWD? If really needed for ride height setting, could I not just jack up via the LUCA to get to the 423mm and then torque everything up? Thanks in advance.
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I couldn't find anything as to why no one did this step and why it's necessary.
My common sense thought was "the car's weight doesn't change (nor is the suspension adjustable) so how in the hell does this affect the ride height."
Still haven't figured it out. Also another member mentioned his front ride height was higher for a week or so while it bedded in but I'm sure you've read that.
superflyrolla
Member
I use a jack to lift the suspension to ride height with a piece of wood under the knuckle or LCA. Then, torque the bolts which install through rubber bushings. The purpose is to set the bushings in zero tension or “twist” where they will spend the majority of time.
This is exactly right! If you torque rubber suspension bushings at full droop it will affect ride height, comfort and bushing life.
Thanks and got it! So before torquing everything, raise the LCA to 423mm. I guess I need a long ruler and a flat floor. Same with the rear damper replacement?
If you jack up that corner of the suspension until the car is lifting off the jackstand, that will do the trick!
Makes perfect sense! Thanks.
A regular PSA for others. I too, got 2 of the same front struts in my order. In my case, 2x 01-Bs instead of a 00-B and a 01-B. I guess I won't be able to get it in time to install before my road trip next week.