its brown/blue on one side, converting to black yellow on the other. I connected to the black side as it was easier to tap into but electrically its the same circuit. BTW, when you take yours apart take a picture for me of the black/yellow end when it runs to. it looks like it had a rubber cap over it so im not sure it was ever connected to anything at the end, but it was just hanging when i opened the vents. I triple checked, my remote wire still is functioning as intended, as is my seat sensor and center console light, so in all honestly it may just be an used connector but i want a point of reference and there are very few pictures of this on google :-(
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Installed an amp and subs over the weekend
- Thread starter thesuffering
- Start date
its brown/blue on one side, converting to black yellow on the other. I connected to the black side as it was easier to tap into but electrically its the same circuit. BTW, when you take yours apart take a picture for me of the black/yellow end when it runs to. it looks like it had a rubber cap over it so im not sure it was ever connected to anything at the end, but it was just hanging when i opened the vents. I triple checked, my remote wire still is functioning as intended, as is my seat sensor and center console light, so in all honestly it may just be an used connector but i want a point of reference and there are very few pictures of this on google :-(
When you say the vent, you mean the rear vent? How do you access this brown wire location? I'll take a picture if I can find this. Thanks.
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Yes, the rear vent with the two usb ports in the back. Give it a tug and it will unclip. You'll see two sets of wires, one going into the rear vent for the USBs and the other I believe goes somewhere for the top lid of the center console. Studying this, I believe it detects when the lid is open and turns on the light inside of the lid under the tray. My light isnt coming on, likely because its just hanging here right now but i cant figure out how to reconnect it. There is a metal contact that moves when the lid opens and closes, so i believe thats meant to make contact with the harness i have laying, and thus turns on the light inside when opened.
Anyway, that set of wires, not the one connected to the vent is the one you are looking for. Its only light blue/brown after that connector which then travels below/behind the vent, and then its black/yellow on the other side of the connector which then goes up to the lid. Once you pull off the rear vent it should be pretty obvious whats what in there as there are only two sets of wires, and its not the set connected to the USBs.
So the blue/brown (that goes to the cigarette lighter) is the constant 12v or the switched 12v?
The blue/brown I already found when I removed the center console. For some reason I thought blue/brown is constant.
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I dont believe those are the same wires. The ones i tapped were specifically behind the hvac vents and much thinner. The brown is switched and based on the seat occupancy sensor. I tested with a multimeter, it was 12v with the door open or if i was in the seat and the door was closed. 0v if the door was closed and nobody in the seat.
Yes, thank you! Thats exactly where i suspected it goes. Youll notice on the other side is a metal contact that moves with the lid. It looks like its held in place by pressure so i may have to take it apart to get it back in. I couldnt just shove it in.
Anyhow, that black wire on the far side is the one you are looking for, trace it back far enough it turns brown. Test it with a multimeter and you should see the the switched 12v behavior (depending on your butt in seat status). As far as i know, it isnt powerful enough to run a remote wire alone, but connected to the relay as shown in the diagram works a treat.
Hey @thesuffering, I could use your advice. I tried to follow your wiring guide and supplies list for the relay and resistor. I had a different ohm resister though and had some bad results in my hookup. I created a thread last night for ideas and could use your expertise if you could look it over i'd appreciate it. Almost had a Tesla wiring fire - what did I hook up wrong?
@thesuffering I had a weird experience today with the recommended brown wire in the backseat vent.
The switched wires are brown/blue and convert to black/yellow. (pic attached)
First strange thing I noticed was the black wire is (+) and yellow is (-). I've never seen black as (+) before.
Second strange thing is when probing the black/yellow the voltage is 12v. But when probing the same black with ground from the cigarette lighter, it is 15v.
Any idea what's going on? It's probably just my inexperience with working on electronics. Thanks.
The switched wires are brown/blue and convert to black/yellow. (pic attached)
First strange thing I noticed was the black wire is (+) and yellow is (-). I've never seen black as (+) before.
Second strange thing is when probing the black/yellow the voltage is 12v. But when probing the same black with ground from the cigarette lighter, it is 15v.
Any idea what's going on? It's probably just my inexperience with working on electronics. Thanks.
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if your cigarette lighter is 15v, it sounds like you have a post refresh Model 3 with 16v low voltage. Is yours 2021+ with the newer center console and usb c? AFAIK for post refresh model the procedure is essentially all the same but you have to ensure all of your equipment accepts 16v input. Newer amps and electronics do, but some older amps want 12-14v.
As far as the colors, i wouldnt stress on them too much. OEM color schemes never seem to make logical sense. As long as you probe and see 12v on that wire, its the one you want. if you take your butt out of the front seat, open, and close the drivers door it should drop that wire to 0v. reopening the door brings it back up to 12v. That is exactly the behavior we want and are using to create the 12v switched with the front relay.
Hello guys, I have the 2023 Tesla Model 3 with the 16v. But the issue is that when I have the stinger and everything hooked up correctly that specific resistor of 100w 5ohm gets extremely hot. Will that be wrong gauge wires I used? Or faulty resistor? I used both resistors on the package that came cause it was 2 pack, both resistors getting very hot and can’t even be touched. Any ideas how I can fix this?
bo3bdar
Member
I'm not sure which exact circuit you are using, but once the relay has been triggered, there should be no current going through the resistor at all. The relay will be a short circuit relative to the resistor, so no current would flow through the resistor to make it hot. I might be confused on what you actually built though- please draw a circuit diagram for your exact setup.
If you think your original circuit design is right, then the most likely answer is that you have made an error while wiring it up.
Thanks for the reply, I figured it out, needed a smaller relay to fire up that stinger relay. Resistor was getting hot because it was trying to handle all the wattage power going to the amp instead of the stinger.
I’m moving into a bigger system so the resistor is removed and added a battery for my current setup.
Thanks for the info.