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Wire tapping for sub install

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Hello, first post here.
Planning to do sub install in my 21' model 3 RWD, tapping into woofers and power from penthouse, using fuse, relay and resistor between penthouse and amp. First sub install ever. I have two questions:
1. Other threads mention that tapping into door woofers and installing sub+amp actually improves sound quality on other speakers, especially tweeters. But why? I thought the main amplifier would spend the same amount of power on the woofers even if they are tapped?
2. Many use audiocontrol LOC such as LC2i pro before the amp. Is that necessary? If an amp has the ability to wake on signal, what diffeerence does the LOC do? It seems to function as a preamp, but is the sound quality noticable, having a LOC or just amp?
 
I don't have Hansshow, but a different harness with no sub-out. That's why I'm tapping into the woofers, and the video doesn't answer my questions: when tapping into woofers to send signal to the amp, will that also take load of the woofers? And do you need an LOC or not, if you install sub this way and NOT with the hansshow?
Not sure about your installation, but this harness has the output for the subwoofer. I believe it takes the signer from the passenger side front door speaker (according to online readings).
 
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Hello, first post here.
Planning to do sub install in my 21' model 3 RWD, tapping into woofers and power from penthouse, using fuse, relay and resistor between penthouse and amp. First sub install ever. I have two questions:
1. Other threads mention that tapping into door woofers and installing sub+amp actually improves sound quality on other speakers, especially tweeters. But why? I thought the main amplifier would spend the same amount of power on the woofers even if they are tapped?
2. Many use audiocontrol LOC such as LC2i pro before the amp. Is that necessary? If an amp has the ability to wake on signal, what diffeerence does the LOC do? It seems to function as a preamp, but is the sound quality noticable, having a LOC or just amp?

Ok.

You need a LOC or something like that. You don't want the vehicles amp to have to push your SUB by itself. Instant warranty void.

Technically speaking though.... the LOC will power your sub via the power that feeds itself. That way you aren't pulling from the amp that is included in the car.
 
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Ok.

You need a LOC or something like that. You don't want the vehicles amp to have to push your SUB by itself. Instant warranty void.

Technically speaking though.... the LOC will power your sub via the power that feeds itself. That way you aren't pulling from the amp that is included in the car.

Thank you. I wanted to use and amp to drive it, not factory amp. But instead I'm using a powered sub (Focal Bomba BP20), and an LC2i pro. It's a small 300W sub. Is the relay+resistor setup overkill/unnecessary?
 
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A powered sub will have a very high impedance input, so should put no additional load on the amp driving the door woofers. I installed the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P on my '18 M3SR, and didn't bother with a relay/resistor, just used a sturdy cable with an inline fuse. The sub has a fuse, but I wanted protection if the cable ever abraded through or the connector came loose and shorted against the body.
 
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A powered sub will have a very high impedance input, so should put no additional load on the amp driving the door woofers. I installed the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P on my '18 M3SR, and didn't bother with a relay/resistor, just used a sturdy cable with an inline fuse. The sub has a fuse, but I wanted protection if the cable ever abraded through or the connector came loose and shorted against the body.
Thanks for the help. Have you had any issues with your setup with powered sub and no resistor/relay? Like warning signs or dead batery? And did you use an lc2i for audio turn on, or a remote turn on?
 
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Thanks for the help. Have you had any issues with your setup with powered sub and no resistor/relay? Like warning signs or dead batery? And did you use an lc2i for audio turn on, or a remote turn on?
I've had no issues. The sub itself has the ability to turn on when audio is detected, and that's worked fine. The nice thing about the P300-8P is that it will fit into the space that the factory sub normally is mounted in so it takes no cargo space...which reminds me that I need to look in there and make sure it hasn't shifted since I mounted it.

Here's a post that I followed showing the gory details:
 
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Hi,

Does anyone know if you can tap off the original sub in the boot to run a aftermarket sub using the high level inputs ?

If so do you need to disconnect the original sub or can they both be run ?

Thanks in advance.

I tapped off of the input of the boot sub to run mine. Tapping off the input of the sub are the instructions of the Model 3 custom sub I installed.

 
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Thanks for the help. Have you had any issues with your setup with powered sub and no resistor/relay? Like warning signs or dead batery? And did you use an lc2i for audio turn on, or a remote turn on?
I used the sub's feature to automatically turn on when it senses incoming an audio signal and sleep when it's been idle. I've not noticed any problems.
 
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I tapped off of the input of the boot sub to run mine. Tapping off the input of the sub are the instructions of the Model 3 custom sub I installed.

perfect thanks for the help, do you run both subs or just the one as I was thinking of trying a 8" dual voice coil replacement of the OEM sub first to keep the factory look before getting a boot monster...
 
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Can you just disable Sentry Sounds (Controls -> Safety -> Disable Sentry Sounds)? Would that work?
I didn’t even think of that but i’m not sure if it’ll help since the amp sends in-rush current back to the computer. i got all kinds of warning errors. i bought a PAC audio can-bus module and harness and i wired the remote wire from the amp to the accessory wire on the can-bus. the amp turns on when im in drive and powers off once im off the seat. no more errors
 
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