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Instrument cluster dying when hot until manual reboot - 2014 MS

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I have had an issue with my instrument cluster that on hotter days (75F+) and/or under direct sunlight the IC would often be dead or die in front of my eyes. Similar to this fellow. On entering my car, the MCU would display immediately but the IC would be off and remain off until manually rebooting using the scroll wheels. In this instance, I wouldn't be able to shift into gear for up to a minute, usually spamming the brake pedal and shift column, sometimes it wouldn't switch into my driver profile either. None of the steering wheel controls would work as well. The IC and steering wheel functionality would only come back once I manually rebooted using the scroll wheels, taking a min and giving some 'autopilot features unavailable' error and discoloration till booted up.

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This would also often happen when driving as well. On hot days, the screen would just slowly fade to black and no steering wheel controls, but otherwise drive normally.

I've yet to see more than one individual with this issue relating it to heat, which seems to be the only factor in my occurrences. I have considered replacing the IC but I am afraid that this is not related to any bubbling/display issues that swapping the IC screen would fix. I am pretty lost at this point. I've been ignoring it for the last 4 years but considering the recent 3G cutoff, I now have two options:

My initial option was to take the $200 LTE upgrade, which is scheduled for Tuesday, and DIY replace the IC but I am still unsure if that would even fix the IC dying issues as that seems to only fix the bubbling issue. Who knows if the issue would reappear either overtime if replacing the screen is a temporary fix.

My other option would be to take the $1.7k MCU2 upgrade which would come with LTE, nav (on my non-nav car), better performance, and a new IC version. Presumably, if this is an IC CPU issue this option would prevent the issue from reoccurring... hopefully. It'd be great to rejuvenate the car a bit but some amenities for that price tag...

Any insight into what could be causing this issue would really help me fix the issue or make a more educated decision between my options. Thanks a ton in advance everyone!
 
i don't think heat has anything to do with it because you said its only in the 70's. its 112f right now and will be for the next month+ and I've lived in the desert for 4 years with my S and no heat related issues. But you're on MCU1 so perhaps something else is bugged in there. just spend the $2k (or whatever it costs now) and get MCU2 its totally worth it and will prob solve this weirdness anyway.
 
More than likely the cooling fan for the IC failed leading to the overheating. Just get the MCU2 upgrade which is well worth it. The newer IC is effectively a second display vs. a separate computer like it was with MCU1 so this issue should not happen again.
 
i don't think heat has anything to do with it because you said its only in the 70's. its 112f right now and will be for the next month+ and I've lived in the desert for 4 years with my S and no heat related issues. But you're on MCU1 so perhaps something else is bugged in there. just spend the $2k (or whatever it costs now) and get MCU2 its totally worth it and will prob solve this weirdness anyway.
In the high 70's but the cabin gets quite hot, I'd guess 90+ after sitting for a bit. That's interesting in the desert nothing has ever happened. I've never had any hiccups or reboots on my MCU1, only the IC. The kW usage graph does lose all of its data occasionally... I'd assume that's a sign of IC eMMC failing, can anyone confirm?

More than likely the cooling fan for the IC failed leading to the overheating. Just get the MCU2 upgrade which is well worth it. The newer IC is effectively a second display vs. a separate computer like it was with MCU1 so this issue should not happen again.
I have the Gen 2 IC, which should have the heatsink rather than the cooling fan if I'm not mistaken. Yeah, no processor in the MCU2's IC. I understand the consensus is to upgrade to the MCU2, I hope everyone understands I'm a bit hesitant to 'just' spend $2k without figuring out the issue or at least trying.

Appointment just got pushed back to August once I added the MCU2 upgrade to the service due to parts (assuming MCU2) being on backorder w/no ETA. Anyone else facing MCU2 backorder too? I appreciate the input spoon and danny.
 
I think the cost of an IC replacement is close to that of the MCU2 retrofit. One reason many are suggesting the MCU2 retrofit as it fixes so many other potential problems down the road. It eliminates leaky screens, slow operations, and adds LTE (for older cars). Has a number of other improvements too and both new screens are higher resolution and have better contrast. I paid $2700 for my MCU2 upgrade, and the costs have only gone down since then. The downside is it eliminates AM radio, and if you want FM/XM they have to replace the radio as well ($500).
 
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I have had an issue with my instrument cluster that on hotter days (75F+) and/or under direct sunlight the IC would often be dead or die in front of my eyes. Similar to this fellow. On entering my car, the MCU would display immediately but the IC would be off and remain off until manually rebooting using the scroll wheels. In this instance, I wouldn't be able to shift into gear for up to a minute, usually spamming the brake pedal and shift column, sometimes it wouldn't switch into my driver profile either. None of the steering wheel controls would work as well. The IC and steering wheel functionality would only come back once I manually rebooted using the scroll wheels, taking a min and giving some 'autopilot features unavailable' error and discoloration till booted up.

View attachment 827248

This would also often happen when driving as well. On hot days, the screen would just slowly fade to black and no steering wheel controls, but otherwise drive normally.
Probably too late for usable advice at this point, but maybe someone who needs it will read this.
When my IC started being slow to boot, I turned off the energy saver mode and it hasn't been an issue since.
Yours seems a bit more wonky though, so MCU2 is probably the right step.