Bubbling instrument cluster - need to replace glass?

[BrownOuttaSpec]

TSC quoted me $2,250 because I don't have AP. What I read on this forum is that's it's not a whole lot of work for option 2. From what I've ready, I may need a battery replacement and a motor replacement in the next few years. So for now, I'm going to hold off on the MCU2 upgrade.

It's $1750 for your non-AP car: Infotainment Upgrade | Tesla Support

Personally, I highly recommend it!! I would say that even though the car does use a tiny bit more power after the MCU2 upgrade but this is because the car doesn't sleep properly anymore. Very odd sleep pattern after MCU2 and Model S 2017 75D wont sleep properly 1hr sleep, 15min awake repeat...

I would estimate that 95% of what you look at when you are in the car other than the road is the IC or the Infotaintment screen so why not upgrade to give yourself a better Tesla experience?

 

[ucmndd]

TSC quoted me $2,250 because I don't have AP.

They quoted you wrong.

Your reasoning for doing it or not is your own business, just wanted to make sure you have accurate data to make a decision on. The cost for your car is $1750.

 

[jgatl]

It's $1750 for your non-AP car: Infotainment Upgrade | Tesla Support

View attachment 970436

Thank you, I'll bring this back to the TSC whenever I decide to change to MCU2. The TSC Advisor gave me the reverse of the 2 numbers ($1,750 for AP2/2.5 and $2,250 for non AP cars). For now, I'm going to swap out the display only.

 

[jgatl]

Unfortunately had to go with option 1, since my eBay seller sent me the wrong LCD. Here are some additional tips:

• Goo Gone Pro is nearly useless. Use 99% alcohol - it works the best
• Use Nitrile gloves from beginning to end, including removing the LCD - the glue does not stick as well to the gloves as it does to your skin
• Remove the PCB from the metal casing. This will make your glue removal on the metal casing a lot easier
• Use a window scraper - this really helps remove the massive amount of glue on the LCD and glass
• Use a heat gun to warm up the glass as you prepare to separate the glass from the LCD. I set mine to 300 degrees and ensured the face was warm to the touch (not hot)
• Use a fishing line to separate the glass from the LCD, pulling the line back and forth as you work it down the glass face. I did this 2x (once the entire length as I wedged putty knives (see below) between the glass and LCD, and a second time to fully separate the glass and LCD
• Have a few putty knives or wedges available to insert between the glass and the LCD as the fishing line separates them. I only separated the glass from the LCD by 1/16" before removing it
• Separate the glass along the long side (pulling it off vertically) - I felt this would reduce the risk of cracking the glass face
• Use the window scraper to clean the glass first. Alternate between soaking the glass in alcohol and scraping the glue from the face.
• Wipe the glue off the scraper with a paper towel - I made at least 20 passes before getting the glass and LCD clean
• Be careful when you use the window scraper on the LCD. Apply light pressure as you come across the glue and alcohol mix. I put a minor scratch in mine.