Long dryer extension cord 10-30 100' needed

[Cosmacelf]

You have given me 2 ideas.
1. A welder supply shop, but with a 3x6gauge and 1x8gauge so I can upgrade it (and my outlet/breaker/wiring) to a 14-50 in the future.
2. or just buy a 14-50 100' (which seems a lot more available) with an adapter to the 10-30 and limit the charge to 25-30A

Yes 6 gauge would allow you to draw more amps in the future for a different application but geez that's a heavy cable. I have a 30’ 6 gauge 14-50 cable and I can barely lug that around as it is.

Note that charging only requires 2 hots and a ground. Getting a 14-50 cable adds an extra useless neutral wire making it even more heavy and expensive.

This page (and site) might be of interest: Advice for EV Charging in North America

 

[Eric33432]

I actually have a 50' cord made from #10 2 conductors (plus ground) like the one I recommended above, and it is just "OK" to deal with. I only use it two or three times a year when visiting family to be able to charge from dryer receptacle as they are considerable distance from the closest SuC. 100' #8 or #6 wire will be very heavy and cumbersome to use.

I hesitated to post this, but for anyone who comes along later I thought it might be useful.

 

[unk45]

For my 2c: Back when i was driving my P85D coast to coast US in 2015, before supercharging, I had to carry around a heavy connecting cable I had acquired, and handling was always an issue, so I had it in a 'portable' roller.

...
You have given me 2 ideas.
1. A welder supply shop, but with a 3x6gauge and 1x8gauge so I can upgrade it (and my outlet/breaker/wiring) to a 14-50 in the future.
2. or just buy a 14-50 100' (which seems a lot more available) with an adapter to the 10-30 and limit the charge to 25-30A

So, I did go to a welding shop. The very wise proprietor took a look at me and at the car, asked to read the manual instructions for charging, and said: not an exact quote but close "look, you don't want to handle 100ft of that thing. You'll be charging overnight, mostly, at hotels or wherever, right? Why not use a commercial 75ft cable and limit your charge to 30amps? You don't need more overnight." So, I ended out buying a common 30amp commercial cable at Home Depot. Never needed more. Not even coast to coast.

In the end I managed to install a change at my, then, condominium home. That was 208/23 when I was lucky. Oddly that is just fine, charges overnight as much as I ever need.

So, unless you have very unusual needs I suggest skipping the high power if you can charge overnight. You'll never really need it. FWIW, when I did it people thought I was crazy because my car coupled handle 240/80 so that should be what I feed my car. Never have I needed that much except on road trips, and now there are Superchargers for that.

My apologies if I have offended by offering a different choice. It's a dozen years of EV driving that makes me convinced that probably is overkill.

 

[CrimsonEclipse]

Yes 6 gauge would allow you to draw more amps in the future for a different application but geez that's a heavy cable. I have a 30’ 6 gauge 14-50 cable and I can barely lug that around as it is.

Note that charging only requires 2 hots and a ground. Getting a 14-50 cable adds an extra useless neutral wire making it even more heavy and expensive.

This page (and site) might be of interest: Advice for EV Charging in North America

That would explain the EV ONLY cables.
They have 2 hots and a ground and skip the neutral saving 10ish pounds.

So a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter on an EV only 14-50 cable might be the easiest path.

The EV only cable is around 54 lb, and I can easily handle that.

Good info!

 

[davewill]

That would explain the EV ONLY cables.
They have 2 hots and a ground and skip the neutral saving 10ish pounds.

So a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter on an EV only 14-50 cable might be the easiest path.

The EV only cable is around 54 lb, and I can easily handle that.

Good info!

You want to be very careful with these "EV Only" cords with 14-50s on them. If someone tries to use it for an RV or any other use that requires the missing neutral, bad things can happen. If you're lucky, things just don't work. If you're unlucky, you fry equipment.

 

[GSP]

That would explain the EV ONLY cables.
They have 2 hots and a ground and skip the neutral saving 10ish pounds.

So a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter on an EV only 14-50 cable might be the easiest path.

The EV only cable is around 54 lb, and I can easily handle that.

Good info!

I recommend sticking with 10-30 cable, vs. 14-50. Tesla’s 14-50 adapter will signal to the car that it is OK to use the max 32 Amps that the UMC can deliver (or 40 A for older UMC from 2012-2016 era). Sure you can turn the amps down on the touchscreen to the max safe 24 Amps or less, but software or GPS glitch can (rarely) cause the car to draw full current. The breaker *should* save you, but they are not 100% reliable.

If you use Tesla’s 10-30 UMC adapter, it will automatically limit the max current to 24 Amps.

GSP

 

[tga]

The breaker *should* save you, but they are not 100% reliable.

And if you have an old Federal Pacific panel, you should consider them 0% reliable and replace that POS. But that's another issue.

And here I am going off topic again...