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M3 HV won’t charge [car bought at auction]
- Thread starter Wasabi K
- Start date
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- Tags
- not charging pyro fuse
RayK
Active Member
Level 1 and 2, both don’t charge. The car shows up clean on Tesla platform (confirmed by Tesla) it was a clean title car as well. I swapped the charge port ECU as well, checked pyro. No luck. Could this be a BMS issue? I guess the question is, will the battery ever charge if it has been uncharged for a year? It was at “0” when I received it. Or do I need to reset\clear something through toolbox (even though I don’t believe it’s a vcfront issue as airbags seatbelt and pyro are all in good order)
I thought of also changing the charge port as that was the area of impact. Wiring checkout fine as well. Wondering what is causing the HV contactor to stay open.
Tesla doesn’t wanna touch the car post crash. Basically want me to go through insurance. Insurance won’t work cuz that’s how I bought the car (condition)
Anyone can shed some light if a toolbox would close the contactor? Or reset something? is the HV battery toast after being 0% for a year?
Do you mean they want you to go to a bodyshop? Tesla Service centers dont do major repairs, so they would tell you to go to a body shop. Saying they told you to "use insurance" implies that they would fix it if it was billed through insurance. Insurance is obviously not going to pay for it if you bought it that way, but thats just a form of payment. They shouldnt care if you pay yourself, if its work they do.
If its a clean title though, you should be able to pay for a body shop to look at it yourself. You specifically said it was a clean title, so that should be possible.
As for "is the battery toast if not connected for a year" I dont think there is a definitive answer to that. You will likely need to engage a company that can evaluate the battery for you.
It’s unfortunate but most Tesla certified body shops I reached out to and explained exactly my situation have not been helpful much, they have turned down or the lack of interest in the job by saying it will cost a lot out of pocket (which leads me to believe they are interested in insurance work only) I have reached out to 2-3 in NJ and similar feedback or simply saying they are backed up for few months and won’t be able to get to my car.
That is what lead me to try to figure out the issue on my own. If anyone knows any independent company who can help out in NY/NJ/PA area that would be great. it’s a kitty car has 500miles and has been stationary for a year.
I don't think the battery will die. Lithium batteries simply don't die because they're not charged. You may definitely see degradation to some effect. The 12V battery may need to be changed.
Isn't there an independent shop that could test it out. By the way how much did you buy this for.
Isn't there an independent shop that could test it out. By the way how much did you buy this for.
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Some people on Discord seem to suggest the HV battery may need to be changed if not charged for a long time.
I bought this exactly a year ago for 25k. You think it’s a worth a shot to try toolbox for a day and clear all codes?
I'm a bit confused by your posts. You say that the battery has been dead over a year. Are you saying that you've been towing your car to test a SC or level 2 charger? What is the state of your 12V battery?
Sorry for the confusion. Yes I have towed the car to and from body shop to my place for the last one year I have owned.
I had replaced the LV battery once already which was depleted by the body shop. I’ll probably have to buy another one, but was also wondering if I can try an external PS (20-40amps) to provide power for LV, or I can get another one.
I have not tried SC station but have only tried slow mobile charger at home to charge.
Is there a chance of the HV charging once I replace the LV and tow it to a SC ?
Put it in service mode. What alerts are present? No way anyone can know why the car won't charge without that info.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Have you gone into service mode and checked the errors and HV battery status there? That's probably the first thing I would do. When you plug in to charge it should also show an error (either in the car or UMC) if it refuses to charge. Just saying it isn't charging isn't really helpful for diagnosing the problem.
For example, in the owners manual even for "unable to charge" there are 40(!) different error codes, which shows how many different possible causes there are.
https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_us/GUID-9A3F0F72-71F4-433D-B68B-0A472A9359DF.html
I remember reading people having the body shop leaving the car depleted for months and they were able to get it back up by plugging it back in. 1 year is extreme. Also if the car was bought at auction, most of those cars are accident cars that may have the HV battery disabled. Sounds like you never checked if the HV battery was working immediately after it was purchased, so it may have already been sitting even for longer at 0 (meaning even longer than a year) and already was disabled then.
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You’re correct that the diagnosis is nearly impossible by posting a generic issue. I have attached some pictures from the service mode. I these may not be 100% accurate as some may pop up while I was swapping or checking the continuity on Pyro or while the LV was disconnected and the car was powered with an external power source. Hence the reason I was asking if I should clear all codes.
As for HV battery being disabled, I had a certified Tesla shop run a check on the vehicle VIN and the tech was nice enough to tell me the car is not disabled or marked salvage in Tesla DB.
Again this was purchased at an auction with clean title from Hertz and I was able to transfer ownership with Tesla and get the title changed and have Tesla confirm it’s not labeled salvage in their system.
Any other insight would be helpful.
If this car has a clean title then why are you not getting it repaired under warranty?
Tesla runs the VIN and sees it was not repaired at a “certified” Trashila shop. If it’s not fixed at a certified shop, they won’t touch the car and not honor the warranty. As per Tesla if the HV battery is not charged this comes under negligence and voids warranty for any HV battery related parts.
Again, background of the situation is I could not get it repaired at a Certified Tesla shop cuz insurance would not pay for it since it already had the external body damage. (Rear quarter panel) since certified shop wouldn’t take the job I got the body repaired by a non certified shop.
So here we are.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
I would presume the IMG_7354 is the current active faults?
If so, I would expand those and see what they say. But a quick search indicates, they appear to be firmware mismatch. Notably the first one appears to indicate HV is disabled because of this, so towing to a supercharger would be worthless.
Problem after 2 days of delivery
Hello everyone, it's my first time here and my first time with a tesla. My tesla was delivery just a 2 days ago, and yesterday when I made a first update I received some errors in my display, then, unfortunately I can't drive the car. I spoke with a lot of tesla's owners, and we tried a lot...
teslamotorsclub.com
As another mentioned, reinstalling the software in the service menu may fix it, but your status bar below indicates LV battery is depleted. I would fully recharge the LV battery with an external charger before attempting to do so (you may need to power off car and disconnect it from car for it to properly recharge), or maybe even replace it if it is defective. The car may refuse to update while LV is depleted or if it fails during the update, you may permanently brick your car beyond repair, so it is critical it does not fail during the update.
