So you bought the car at an auction with rear panel damage. Then you got it fixed at an independent shop. So independent shops report damage fixes somewhere? I thought the whole purpose to go to an independent shop is so that it's not reported anywhere. Again sorry if I'm not understanding this.
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M3 HV won’t charge [car bought at auction]
- Thread starter Wasabi K
- Start date
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- Tags
- not charging pyro fuse
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
No, he brought the car to Tesla to fix under warranty, but because there was damage and it was not fixed by a certified shop, Tesla refused to warranty it. The independent shop only fixed the body damage and didn't fix the car back to working condition. Now he needs to either get it back to working condition himself or find an independent shop willing to do so for him.
It is my understanding that a fully discharged lithium battery requires a certain process to restore function, such as a very slow charge (possibly outside of BMS control). I have done a few of my own non-automotive restorations.
I would suggest that you have a discussion with Greentec: Hybrid Battery Repair Shop in New Jersey | Greentec Auto
I would suggest that you have a discussion with Greentec: Hybrid Battery Repair Shop in New Jersey | Greentec Auto
Tesla will not touch the car because it was repaired at a non certified shop, as per their service manager it’s a liability and it could “blow up “ in the shop.
Typical run around from typical service ppl.
I asked that earlier in the thread, and the OP said, basically "Tesla wont touch it".
Basically, the fact that the OP is stating that the car has "Clean title" is irrelevant, since it appears that everyone they talk to is treating the car as a salvage vehicle.
Tesla wont touch it because it wasnt repaired at a Tesla approved body shop. Tesla approved body shops wouldnt touch it because they knew what the cost would be to repair it, and they felt the OP wouldnt pay it.
Op has had this car for a year, based on what they said, so it sounds sort of like a sunk cost situation to me. Unless they can get to a third party shop who works directly on EV batteries, and be prepared to pay for that service, they are probably out of luck.
Correct assumptions. I have tried knocking on all doors, insurances wouldn’t work cuz it was already damaged the day I bought it. Tesla will not touch cuz their authorized service center who pay them $150k a year for being the authorized service center didn’t do the job. Authorized center doesn’t want to touch it because they are not making money from insurance. I would pay to get it fixed but no one wants to fix it. Some users on Discord said they can guarantee the car working if I pay $10k.
So I’m left to spend a lot of time on reading through forums and sifting through other people’s experience with similar problem.
Appreciate all the insight here. I guess you live and learn.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
So as suggested you charged the LV battery and tried to reinstall the update already and it failed? It seems the errors you have remaining are just the firmware not matching up on some modules.
I tried to update the software but since the LV is too low to perform any task, I may have to buy another LV.
Could I run an external Powersupply and try to update the firmware or LV being too low will not let me update regardless if the external power supply is attached to the LV terminals.
Disconnect the LV battery. Charge it with a 12 V car battery charger. Get it up above 13 V.
Then disconnect the power underneath the backseat
Reconnect the charged battery
Reconnect the power underneath the backseat
That is how I remove removed the low-voltage battery error I was getting on my car.
I had replaced the battery before and the battery was fine
Then disconnect the power underneath the backseat
Reconnect the charged battery
Reconnect the power underneath the backseat
That is how I remove removed the low-voltage battery error I was getting on my car.
I had replaced the battery before and the battery was fine
LV BMS will let it recharge? I think couple month ago before buying the last LV battery I did try multiple chargers even the Lithium battery ones, but they all failed to charge the LV battery. Do you have any particular recommendations on the charger?
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Ok, that makes sense. Yeah, as I mentioned, the car likely doesn't let you update unless you have a decent charge on the LV. This is because if the LV fails, it may brick the car. Having a power supply is likely worthless because it doesn't show up as a battery to the system. I forgot you have the 16V battery, which makes things more complicated. The 12V lead acid is much easier to deal with.
Why don't you get tesla service to change the LVB? It costs only $120. I'm sure tesla can do that since it doesn't involve repair that could "blow" up the car.
I think that would work, but it would need to be a close to 15v and 40-50A power supply if I recall correctly.
But I have concerns: if the firmware mismatches, that either means it failed mid-update, or someone has swapped parts around from different vehicles. (Like maybe they took all the good parts out and put failed parts back in before selling it at auction.)
So initially when I went on this venture, someone in the Tesla community thought I needed a vcfront which was swapped but later on taken out as that was not the issue. Airbags and Pyro were good. Perhaps the car sees old alerts which need to be cleared with an external or new LV.
Question for anyone with Toolbox experience, is it worth to get a day pass and try to clear the codes? Perhaps that will reset the history of all these errors?
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
He has a 2023, so it has the 16V lithium ion LV battery. That one costs substantially more and can't easily be charged outside the car (not even sure if it's possible). Looking it up, the 16V BMS apparently lets the LV battery continue to drain until it under-discharges the cells and then the BMS would brick the battery (instead of cutting off the power before it does so and being able to wake up with external power).
LV battery in NJ is $220. I can get a battery from them but they won’t install. I don’t think I need Bestbuy kids to install a simple 16v battery. At this point, I prob have more experience on this car than a junior level tech at Tesla (no offense)
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
That's important context you should have pointed out from the start, it seems you messed with this car much more extensively then you initially pointed out. If the clock can be dialed back, you should have entered the service mode to see the alerts before doing any swaps of parts. Now it's not clear if the alerts are there originally or if it's a result of you swapping the parts.
But anyways currently it's pretty clear the car is refusing to connect the HV because of the firmware mismatch.
I have seen crazy ppl on YouTube open the battery with a torch and charge with a 12v charger.
I don’t want to burn the house down so, worst case I can get a new LV battery. But I was curious to know if external power and LV battery plugged in can somehow let me update the firmware. (Most likely not) I have also read these 16v batteries are designed to be not recharged externally.
