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Martian Wheels MW03

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Good to know and thanks for keeping us up to date. Your wheels and tires look great. There seems to be many weights opposite the valve stem; do you think that is because of the TPMS?

BTW, It looks like your rocker panels and wheel well edges would benefit from mud flaps before winter.

Car is fully PPF'd, does that change your view? I had pretty much decided that mud flaps were a net negative due to potential to wear through PPF to harm the paint. I'm not opposed to mud flaps if they can be done without adding risk.
 
I expect to get my wheels on Wednesday. I got the 20x8.5 with a +35 offset.

I went to my local America’s Tires looking to order the Michelin A/S 3+ 245/35/20’s because today is the last day of their promotion, however they would not sell it to me because the load rating for those tires are 95 and OEM is 96. I have a Mid Range and I have the aero wheels.

Would the load rating matter in this instance? Funny thing is he pulled up information on a Performance Model 3 with the 20’s, and the OEM load rating on those are 92.

Isn't my Mid Range lighter than a Performance? 3686 vs. 4072...according to Wikipedia.

Shops are retarded these days. Retards at Costco didn't want to let me order RE71s for my Performance, because the speed rating was lower than OEM 20", despite them being trackday tires.

You can get around it having them mount those on loose wheels and installing them yourself.

@Viper GTS Pics in your recent post are not showing for me.

And yes, road debris will quickly eat through ppf w/o proper flaps. The latter are also hard to come by for a Tesla, cause cheap chinese crap everyone is running will also eat through ppf.
 
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Not sure what's up with the pictures, they show for me when logged in but don't when not. Here's all of them + a new one.











Any suggestions on mud flaps that aren't garbage? I'm happy to pay for quality but when I looked back in December there was nothing worthwhile on the market that I could see.
 
Not sure what's up with the pictures, they show for me when logged in but don't when not. Here's all of them + a new one.











Any suggestions on mud flaps that aren't garbage? I'm happy to pay for quality but when I looked back in December there was nothing worthwhile on the market that I could see.
I got the ones from tsolutions but they haven't aged that well and debris accumulates between the flap and the panel, just got the rallyarmor ones that seem much more well built and we will see how they wear and if they are easier to clean and no debris accumulates. They seem to be the most well built.
 
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I expect to get my wheels on Wednesday. I got the 20x8.5 with a +35 offset.

I went to my local America’s Tires looking to order the Michelin A/S 3+ 245/35/20’s because today is the last day of their promotion, however they would not sell it to me because the load rating for those tires are 95 and OEM is 96. I have a Mid Range and I have the aero wheels.

Would the load rating matter in this instance? Funny thing is he pulled up information on a Performance Model 3 with the 20’s, and the OEM load rating on those are 92.

Isn't my Mid Range lighter than a Performance? 3686 vs. 4072...according to Wikipedia.

Side car photos of these 20’s mounted would be great!

Ski
 
Car is fully PPF'd, does that change your view? I had pretty much decided that mud flaps were a net negative due to potential to wear through PPF to harm the paint. I'm not opposed to mud flaps if they can be done without adding risk.

PPF should certainly help; in fact the 10 year warranty may cover what Tesla will not. But when it comes to areas exposed to direct sandblasting behind the tires, I agree with dsgerbc that you need more than PPF alone. The detailer who did my PPF here in New England agreed and highly recommended that I also install the mud flaps from Evannex. Thoughts and pictures on this subject appear in the following thread:
Rust Vulnerability?.

But some Model 3 owners with rust problems feel that even PPF and mud flaps are just "bandaids". See:
Model 3 paint wearing off
Yet, Tesla stock continues to soar, so hopefully such rust bucket cases are a small percentage.

In fact, Tesla must have learned a lesson, thus made the Model Y more robust, with plastic rocker panels and wheel well trim.
 
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Not sure what's up with the pictures, they show for me when logged in but don't when not. Here's all of them + a new one.











Any suggestions on mud flaps that aren't garbage? I'm happy to pay for quality but when I looked back in December there was nothing worthwhile on the market that I could see.

I ended up with Exannex mud flaps (see Rust Vulnerability?.) which seem to be as good as manufacturer's mud flaps for my other cars: 2002 Acura RSX-S and 2015 Volvo XC60. As others on TMC recommended, round off the sharp edges so they won't poke through the PPF. None of mine actually touch the PPF where it is visible. Where they do touch, I added another layer of PPF. I would stay away from the Tesla mud flaps because they do not cover the "mystery hole". are front only, and require that you tear off a door from the rocker plastic to access a mounting bolt. I also recall seeing videos from Europe of all the junk they collect because of poor drainage.
 
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I ordered a set of 20” x 9.5” +45 MW03’s in a custom dark bronze finish about 4 weeks ago for my Performance Model Y! Want to try to get some of that range back by ditching the 21” Uberturbines and going back to a square set up similar to the Inductions. I’ll be white on bronze just like Viper GTS but when I ordered my set I specifically asked for a bronze that is a darker shade that the set that that Viper GTS and the_clean_3 are running. CLoser to the dark bronze color of the Volk Racing TE-37 Bronze.
 
PPF should certainly help; in fact the 10 year warranty may cover what Tesla will not. But when it comes to areas exposed to direct sandblasting behind the tires, I agree with dsgerbc that you need more than PPF alone. The detailer who did my PPF here in New England agreed and highly recommended that I also install the mud flaps from Evannex. Thoughts and pictures on this subject appear in the following thread:
Rust Vulnerability?.

But some Model 3 owners with rust problems feel that even PPF and mud flaps are just "bandaids". See:
Model 3 paint wearing off
Yet, Tesla stock continues to soar, so hopefully such rust bucket cases are a small percentage.

In fact, Tesla must have learned a lesson, thus made the Model Y more robust, with plastic rocker panels and wheel well trim.

Logic seems reasonable; I ordered a set of Rally Armor. I've had narrow/tucked winter wheels on to date due to these delays so now is as good a time as any to get flaps on.

Also good to hear the Y is improved as I just convinced my in-laws to buy one and they were never going to go for PPF. They're in the PNW so much less of an issue there but plastic is even better.
 
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Could it be the tire install? I'm trying to find ..... I never did find what I was looking for.


I'm going with those tires as well. Wheels to be delivered tomorrow, but my tire install appointment is on Thursday. I'll report back with any issues I may run into.

Went to Discount today to get my tires installed. They were able to get 3 on, but had issues with the 4th one and said they need to take it to a sister shop. Their machines only go up to 90psi, and believe that they need more pressure to seat the tire.

Anyways, here's a pic of 2 of them.
15943096454063940809818136400948.jpg
 
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Went to Discount today to get my tires installed. They were able to get 3 on, but had issues with the 4th one and said they need to take it to a sister shop. Their machines only go up to 90psi, and believe that they need more pressure to seat the tire.

Anyways, here's a pic of 2 of them.View attachment 562441
You’re the second person in this thread that had a similar situation with the shop having to send one wheel out to a sister shop. What’s the issue that is causing that to happen? The other 3 wheels were setup properly....
 
The issue as explained to me is related to this:


You need a lot of volume of air to seat the bead, and if it's all escaping through the knurling faster than you can put it in then you won't succeed.
But what makes this setup troublesome? As a tire shop, do they encounter this issue often? Or are there certain variables that cause this. I’m just trying to understand the situation to learn more about it.
 
All 4 wheels finally arrived safely today.
20200709_140952W1.jpg

W1. Well packaged.

20200709_141456W2.jpg

W2. TPMS Installed.

20200709_141642W3.jpg

W3. Label & Engraving

20200709_141920W4.jpg

W4. Won't be mounted for a while.

I want to put one on the car (Model 3 Performance with big Brembo Brakes) to check clearances. Which would be worst case... front or rear?

20200709_142840W5.jpg

W5. Included metal MW center caps, plastic lug nut covers and removal tool, and a nice microfiber towel.

I requested Tesla center caps, but they sent MW, which look to be high quality, machined from an aluminum billet with a green rubber? O-ring to hold them in. It looks like you need to push them out from behind, which is probably good to keep them from being lifted.
 
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