Phyzi Driver
Member
Pleasantly surprised to be getting 6 mi/hr from a standard 120v outlet for my SR+. Thought it would be closer to 3-4 like what I have seen on YouTube but hey I'll take the extra 2 mi/hr.
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This can be calculated (though you do have to estimate the overhead & charging losses; charging losses after overhead removal are at least 10% based on EPA data):Pleasantly surprised to be getting 6 mi/hr from a standard 120v outlet for my SR+. Thought it would be closer to 3-4 like what I have seen on YouTube but hey I'll take the extra 2 mi/hr.View attachment 687828
I get that 71 kw/h
that 1% is 0,667 kwh?
I’d wait and hope they start shipping an unlocked 82kWh pack in AWDs to Europe in 2022.Should I be anyhow worried about the LG pack? Not sure if I should force myself to wait additional 3 months for the Panasonic version or just take what is with worse battery
You should be able to max out at 150kW on that Supercharger. Drive on the freeway for an hour, navigate with the Nav to the Supercharger to allow warming (ideally it does not do any pre-conditioning when you navigate to it - means battery is warm enough), make sure you are not sharing with anyone else (don’t want to share rate!), and try multiple different stations.Finally popped my supercharging cherry yesterday. The highest kw I got was 74 kw during the charge from 10% to 60%. Supercharger max is 150 kw. Anyone get similar numbers? I have the SR+.
I navigated from work to the supercharger (about 30 miles away) so it should have been warm enough to get 150 kw right? I was 1 of 3 Teslas there and my car was at least 2 car spots away from the nearest one. Maybe it was just that location... I'll try again at a different location next time.You should be able to max out at 150kW on that Supercharger. Drive on the freeway for an hour, navigate with the Nav to the Supercharger to allow warming (ideally it does not do any pre-conditioning when you navigate to it - means battery is warm enough), make sure you are not sharing with anyone else (don’t want to share rate!), and try multiple different stations.
Max for your vehicle is about 170kW, which should be attainable at 10%-30% or so at a 250kW charger.
Probably not. Did it precondition? If it was still preconditioning when you arrived, then, by definition, it was not warm enough.I navigated from work to the supercharger (about 30 miles away) so it should have been warm enough to get 150 kw right?
Personally I wouldnt take the old LG pack. On longer journeys, the lower capacity and slow DC charge speed are just annoying. The cold weather performance doesnt make up for it, in my opinion. If you wait, you most likely get a LR with the new LG 82kWh battery pack. This could be the best of all worlds, but we dont know for sure. It is pretty much set, that all EU cars will come from China now and it is most likely that LG will become the main provider for LR/P battery packs.Should I be anyhow worried about the LG pack? Not sure if I should force myself to wait additional 3 months for the Panasonic version or just take what is with worse battery
What is the point of mentioning "unlocked" 82kWh, knowing that there has never been and most likely won't ever be a locked version?I’d wait and hope they start shipping an unlocked 82kWh pack in AWDs to Europe in 2022.
However, it does seem very unlikely, with all the other battery variants they are shipping to Europe.
It is pretty good now. Not only the SuC network, but also other providers. Almost every highway stop has a DC fast charger these days. Some are still older 50KW though...I guess the infrastructure in Europe is getting to be good enough that an extra 5%+ energy doesn’t really matter that much?
My error. My memory on this stuff (the locks) is not that great and with the various new packs constantly shipping to Europe I had forgotten that the AWD non-P vehicles with the 82kWh pack now appear to [The following is wrong….What is the point of mentioning "unlocked" 82kWh, knowing that there has never been and most likely won't ever be a locked version?
Are you still in doubt, after all the data provided here?
Buffer removal? I thought the buffer is 4,5% ( 3,4 kwh) from 74,5kwh? E3D and E5D have both 71 kwh usable capacity?1% should be 71kWh*0.955*0.99*0.01 = 0.671kWh.
So seems pretty close.
0.955 => buffer removal
0.99 => trip meter loss of ~1%
You used the energy screen method which shows your pack capacity since you are definitely below the degradation threshold (in general it gives the min(pack capacity, degradation threshold) ). The energy screen method for full capacity gives the result including the buffer.Buffer removal? I thought the buffer is 4,5% ( 3,4 kwh) from 74,5kwh? E3D and E5D have both 71 kwh usable capacity?
HiYou used the energy screen method which shows your pack capacity since you are definitely below the degradation threshold (in general it gives the min(pack capacity, degradation threshold) ). The energy screen method for full capacity gives the result including the buffer.
You current battery is 71kWh. It started at ~74.5kWh (75kWh? Can’t remember exact number but let’s say approximately within 1kWh) if you had used the energy screen method when new.
So you still remove the 4.5% buffer from that energy screen value.
Your battery has lost about 4kWh capacity. So it has about 67.5kWh usable not including the buffer.
only problem (maybe big one...) is that the car is 6 months old. I have driven about 5000 miles and I have supercharged it 3 times (mostly charging by night at home). So 4 kWh decline is pretty much. Average should be something like 2,3% per year. That is 5,3% in 6 months
Surely your car doesn't have that level of degradation!Hi
Thanks, that could explain the difference. Only problem (maybe big one...) is that the car is 6 months old. I have driven about 5000 miles and I have supercharged it 3 times (mostly charging by night at home). So 4 kWh decline is pretty much. Average should be something like 2,3% per year. That is 5,3% in 6 months
Not, it's not a problem. 10% in the first year or two is perfectly normal for that battery type (E3D). 5% in six months with 5k miles is also not uncommon. Average over 4-5 years probably is more like 3% per year.
It's perfectly normal for people to have 10-15% capacity loss after about 3 years. Most closer to 10-13%, but plenty with 15%.
It'll be interesting to see how people fare with the new 2170L cells! We should know a lot more in about 6 months (or less) about how they are doing, if people report their results here. Plenty of these vehicles that are coming up on 6 months old so we'll see how they do...
As @eivissa adds below, also important to realize this is a BMS estimate. My best guess is that estimate is nearly always within 2kWh of the actual value. So it seems very likely to me that you have capacity loss (you can report your 100% charge value, but that's equivalent to the energy screen calc you did above - it's going to show ~518km at 100% since it showed ~461km at 89%, assuming the BMS estimate has not changed since your calculation). However, a true 4kWh capacity loss is a lot more uncertain. You can charge to 60% for a while, do some full discharges, let it sleep at 20% as suggested, and it's entirely possible you'll see 1-2kWh of recovery. No guarantees but there's a decent likelihood you'll see some recovery over the course of a week or two.
A 2kWh loss over 5k miles and 6 months would definitely be perfectly normal. Not everyone sees that much, and some people see more, but it's certainly something that is entirely possible and normal.
Surely your car doesn't have that level of degradation!
My suggestion would be to charge the car to 100% once and write down the rated km (shown instead of battery percentage). Those km times 137 divided by 1000 is your current guessed capacity by the car. In your case the car should show 518km at 100% SoC which I highly doubt.
Software locked E3D (or E3CD as they are called now), usually show around 535-545km at 100%.
Whatever the number is, you should then daily charge the car to 60% only and also allow the car to sleep for a couple of hours at lower SoC like 20%. After a couple of weeks your numbers should climb again, if they were low anyway.
We have quite a few LR / P E3D Pre-Refresh that only lost 10-15km in two years, mainly using this strategy with limiting daily SoC to 60%.