Mobile Service Replacing 12V Battery [need to remove powered frunk kit?]

[Mod Y Guy]

Quick question... I’m having my 12V battery replaced as an “under warranty” service this weekend (it went 2.5 years/30,000 miles). Do you all think it’s necessary that I disconnect my Hansshow Power Frunk/Trunk connections to the battery prior to the appointment? I just want to make sure it’s covered and don’t want to jeopardize that in any way. I’m just not sure if it matters or not. Thanks so much for any clarity.

 

[SageBrush]

Meaning you suspect that the Hansshow killed the 12v and you don't want to take responsibility

 

[Matsayz]

If it’s being replaced by the mobile tech I wouldn’t worry absolutely it. Those people are usually pretty cool. Give them the key card, ask if they need anything from you (water/bathroom/etc) then go back in the house. It’s a quick swap of batteries.

I’d also ignore any comments that this was your fault, Tesla knows why these batteries have been dying and that’s why they’re being replaced under warranty.

 

[Mod Y Guy]

If it’s being replaced by the mobile tech I wouldn’t worry absolutely it. Those people are usually pretty cool. Give them the key card, ask if they need anything from you (water/bathroom/etc) then go back in the house. It’s a quick swap of batteries.

I’d also ignore any comments that this was your fault, Tesla knows why these batteries have been dying and that’s why they’re being replaced under warranty.

Thanks for the reply. Yah, the auto frunk/trunk in no way killed the battery. The ones Tesla use, especially in early vehicles like mine, seem to last roughly 2 to 3 years. I just don’t want to be charged for something that others are getting done for free. Simple as that.

 

[jjrandorin]

Thanks for the reply. Yah, the auto frunk/trunk in no way killed the battery. The ones Tesla use, especially in early vehicles like mine, seem to last roughly 2 to 3 years. I just don’t want to be charged for something that others are getting done for free. Simple as that.

Thats always a "YMMV" type thing. If the mobile tech sees some aftermarket tie into the battery, they "could" deny to replace it under warranty. Just because these have been failing under warranty doesnt mean that in YOUR case the aftermarket kit did not "help it along".

If you want to be absolutely sure, then you should remove the kit. No kit, no way for them to see it and deny replacing it. If you leave it there, they may not notice it, may notice it and ignore it, or may notice it and deny warranty replacement.

I am not saying they will deny warranty replacement if they see it. I am saying they CAN if they decide to, and since this seems to be a concern for you, if you want to be "sure" you should remove it. Obviously up to you, though.

 

[mswlogo]

I’m shocked they are covering it. 30K miles and 2.5 years! Folks have posted having a lot less use and not be covered.

How does the frunk operate when it’s disconnected. If it’s obvious it may not matter if you disconnect or not. If it’s obvious they might suspect that you suspect it caused premature death of the battery.

Curious what ends up happening. But I agree much less likely an issue with Mobile tech.

 

[Mod Y Guy]

I definitely see it being a YMMV type issue. I was a bit shocked myself actually. I was ready to pay for normal wear and tear but saw the estimate come in as "under warranty". I'd just like to keep it that way. Not trying to "hide the body" here. Thanks for your continued replies. I do appreciate it.

 

[smatthew]

I’m shocked they are covering it. 30K miles and 2.5 years! Folks have posted having a lot less use and not be covered.

The bumper to bumper warranty is four years, or 50,000 miles. The car has reached neither milestone.

 

[GeoffEV]

I definitely see it being a YMMV type issue. I was a bit shocked myself actually. I was ready to pay for normal wear and tear but saw the estimate come in as "under warranty". I'd just like to keep it that way. Not trying to "hide the body" here. Thanks for your continued replies. I do appreciate it.

How'd everything work out? I'm curious bc I wouldn't disconnect my PF prior to a SC/MR visit - regardless of a warranty issue. OTOH, I continue to think I should change its power connection locations as I've thought the battery-tie terminal connections were just too 'expedient-looking' for my retired engineer aesthetics.

 

[LionXng]

The potential cost of a new 12v battery is nowhere near enough to justify all the work of removing your powered frunk IMO.

 

[Mod Y Guy]

So I ended up going back to check the connections of my frunk install and noticed that the grounding cable was underneath the drop-in housing (image 1 marked with red circle). I therefore decided to reroute the ground cable to the negative terminal on the battery for easier access for the mobile tech (image 1 marked with yellow circle). I decided it was better to just leave all the connections as is after that and see what happened. If I had to pay, I had to pay. The tech came and did the battery swap without issue, reconnecting everything back the way I had it. I asked her if it was normal that I got around 30,000 miles out of it and she said that was pretty standard. Then she said, oh and by the way, if you took the car to the service center they would have seen the aftermarket connections and wouldn't have covered a new 12-volt under warranty. I agreed with her and said thanks for looking the other way. We both knew it wasn't the frunk that caused the battery to go but the service center wouldn't have cared. She also topped off my coolant, pumped up the tires, and looked quickly at a noise coming from my rear suspension (came up empty there unfortunately and the mild "knocking" noise is driving me mad... I'm thinking it's a bad bushing in the sway bar or control arm). All-in-all a very good mobile service visit and a happy customer!

 

[GeoffEV]

So I ended up going back to check the connections of my frunk install and noticed that the grounding cable was underneath the drop-in housing (image 1 marked with red circle). I therefore decided to reroute the ground cable to the negative terminal on the battmery for easier access for the mobile tech (image 1 marked with yellow circle). I decided it was better to just leave all the connections as is after that and see what happened. If I had to pay, I had to pay. The tech came and did the battery swap without issue, reconnecting everything back the way I had it. I asked her if it was normal that I got around 30,000 miles out of it and she said that was pretty standard. Then she said, oh and by the way, if you took the car to the service center they would have seen the aftermarket connections and wouldn't have covered a new 12-volt under warranty. I agreed with her and said thanks for looking the other way. We both knew it wasn't the frunk that caused the battery to go but the service center wouldn't have cared. She also topped off my coolant, pumped up the tires, and looked quickly at a noise coming from my rear suspension (came up empty there unfortunately and the mild "knocking" noise is driving me mad... I'm thinking it's a bad bushing in the sway bar or control arm). All-in-all a very good mobile service visit and a happy customer!

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Congratulations on a very thorough Mobile Ranger visit - and thanks for sharing her thoughts on whether or not the battery swap would be free of charge. Battery warranties are pretty poor these daze and a 2.5YO lead-acid battery is well passed much if any reimbursement. Nonetheless, I agree with you that a properly installed Power Frunk had nothing to do with the demise of your battery. Rather, it's due to discharge-charge cycle limitation inherent in lead acid batteries. Elon has verified that himself and basically stated that it was galactically stoopid to have installed this battery type in this role.

Since the Power Frunks' manual release can be operated ONLY when the battery is dead, I've stored a Li-ion portable charger in it which I'll directly connect to the 'dead' battery to shut the traction battery relay and then drive to buy a new 12V (probably a Li-ion). Beats standing around in a parking lot or wherever waiting for a tow truck, a friend, a spouse, etc. for a jump. Thanks again for sharing your experiences.

 

[boriszima]

Thank you for details. what are the safety items one cares if 12V battery dies? I need to read manual, but it seems often times 12V dies and one can't access the car inside even if you keep jumper cables or 12v lion battery jumper since frunk needs it to be opened
All batteries dead, can’t unlock car.

 

[GeoffEV]

Thank you for details. what are the safety items one cares if 12V battery dies? I need to read manual, but it seems often times 12V dies and one can't access the car inside even if you keep jumper cables or 12v lion battery jumper since frunk needs it to be opened
All batteries dead, can’t unlock car.

I've not yet performed either the Frunk external power latch unlock or the 12V power-up procedure, but I will test them both when I eventually swap out the 12V. I'm pretty sure it's a combination of my laziness and 3rd generation engineer gut-level programming: 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it!'

The manual states that the Frunk latches are released when a 12V power supply is applied to the electrical leads hidden behind the front bumper access port. This will only happen if there is no 12V power. The Hansshow Power Frunk folks provided an alternative manual wire loop release that also only works when there's no 12V power. That's very handy bc, if you store a jump starter in your Frunk, then you don't need a jump from an external source. IAC, once the Frunk is open, just remove the Maintenance Panel to access the 12V, attach your jump starter's cables to the terminals and then keep touching the UI screen until it turns on (it may take some unknown amount of time to raise the voltage enough to get the system to turn on). I imagine that I'd want to immediately drive home and use another vehicle to procure a new battery - or maybe I'd try rejuvenating the "dead" battery with my 10A desulfonator/pulse charger. Heck, I've gotten 2+ years more good performance from old lead-acid batteries that have died.

I'd like to learn from someone who has actually performed the 12V system startup bc Im sure there'll be good advice to keep in mind for when that time comes. If so, I'll put a printout of their experience in the jumper pouch - thank you, in advance!

 

[mswlogo]

The potential cost of a new 12v battery is nowhere near enough to justify all the work of removing your powered frunk IMO.

He was considering just disconnecting it from the battery. And definitely would have been worth it, if he brought it to the SC. But they still might have seen the mod and voided the battery warranty. None of these mods are worth it to me. I never use the Frunk. Not because it’s awkward, I just don’t need it that often. I just put emergency stuff in it.

 

[Mattopotamus]

He was considering just disconnecting it from the battery. And definitely would have been worth it, if he brought it to the SC. But they still might have seen the mod and voided the battery warranty. None of these mods are worth it to me. I never use the Frunk. Not because it’s awkward, I just don’t need it that often. I just put emergency stuff in it.

Rightfully so too, I think. If you have something connected to the part that dies, that is beyond reasonable to void the warranty on said part.

 

[Gasaraki]

Quick question... I’m having my 12V battery replaced as an “under warranty” service this weekend (it went 2.5 years/30,000 miles). Do you all think it’s necessary that I disconnect my Hansshow Power Frunk/Trunk connections to the battery prior to the appointment? I just want to make sure it’s covered and don’t want to jeopardize that in any way. I’m just not sure if it matters or not. Thanks so much for any clarity.

Yeah I would just disconnect it and if they ask what the hanging wires are just say I have a part that just needs some 12V power. That should be a normal thing and no one is going to question that.

 

[GeoffEV]

He was considering just disconnecting it from the battery. And definitely would have been worth it, if he brought it to the SC. But they still might have seen the mod and voided the battery warranty. None of these mods are worth it to me. I never use the Frunk. Not because it’s awkward, I just don’t need it that often. I just put emergency stuff in it.

Precisely my point regarding Hansshow Power Frunk: Even in the event of a loss of 12V, all by my lonesome, I have immediate access to my emergency equipment. In addition to the Li-ion jumpstarter, I store a 1st aid kit, a tire repair kit&inflator, lug wrench, jack&pucks, paper towels, nitrile gloves, mobile charging cable with all the 240V adapters and a bottle of Invisible Glass in a ziplock bag. No sense in standing around waiting for someone else to respond, right?

As to your guess that aftermarket mods will void your warranty, if that happened due to a Power Frunk, I would speak with the SC Manager and cite Elon's own words to Sandy Monroe that their 'use of a 12V lead-acid battery is an inherent defect in their cars.' If that doesn't work, then I'd cite the Federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Law. I suspect you'll get your free battery.

 

[mswlogo]

Precisely my point regarding Hansshow Power Frunk: Even in the event of a loss of 12V, all by my lonesome, I have immediate access to my emergency equipment. In addition to the Li-ion jumpstarter, I store a 1st aid kit, a tire repair kit&inflator, lug wrench, jack&pucks, paper towels, nitrile gloves, mobile charging cable with all the 240V adapters and a bottle of Invisible Glass in a ziplock bag. No sense in standing around waiting for someone else to respond, right?

As to your guess that aftermarket mods will void your warranty, if that happened due to a Power Frunk, I would speak with the SC Manager and cite Elon's own words to Sandy Monroe that their 'use of a 12V lead-acid battery is an inherent defect in their cars.' If that doesn't work, then I'd cite the Federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Law. I suspect you'll get your free battery.

Arguing with SC over anything is futile.

If you get screwed on warranty, you’re done, period. If you want to fight it, even if you are on perfect legal grounds, go right ahead.

I just avoid giving them any opportunity to wiggle out of anything. Like I said, it’s not worth it, to me. I won’t even put a non OEM wheels. It’s not worth it. You also don’t get a dime more selling or trading for any mods.

 

[Perscitus]

Bingo. In fact you typically get dinged on resale with any mods, even minor cosmetic ones that are easily reversable. Then again, no one modding their car is doing so for the next person down the line... mostly for themselves or their ego.

Best to return to stock pre sale or just stay stock with all things automotive (unless sponsored, or professionally racing or independently wealthy with money to burn - or all of the above).

Cosmetic or functional... unless you get lucky and sell to someone ignorant enough to want to pay top dollar for any of that stuff (regardless of what it cost upfront or how great it is/was for track use). Vide recent post about the ruined Model 3 with cork/wood imitating vinyl and tan seat cover interior.

Applies just the same to an all-in fully-loaded audio build or vendor-of-choice suspension build. Wheels, stance, etc.