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Model 3 crash....opinions

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Yeah that would have raised the ACV sufficiently.

So I gather your repairs must have been...a lot. Can’t remember in that thread... $20k? But with the DOV and rental/storage/etc., total costs to insurer probably pushed over $40k?

The thing that made yours relatively easy to total is that the damage was super minor and the car just needed the tensioner done and the pyrofuse replaced (maybe not even that?) and it was good to drive. So salvage value was high!

Salvage value of the vehicle above is definitely a lot lower! Not drivable and probably needs a new rear motor and suspension - and perhaps a new battery -in addition to the other cosmetic things.

super minor?

They had to remove almost the entire rear of my car...seats and all. $29k not including rental @ $43 per day.

20190730_151552.jpg
 
super minor?

They had to remove almost the entire rear of my car...seats and all. $29k not including rental @ $43 per day.

View attachment 449363

Yes, it was (nearly) drivable. That’s what I mean. I base this only on your prior post with your estimates. If you had motor damage, etc., obviously not minor.

Yeah, that repair cost seems about right for relatively minor damage.

It doesn’t matter for this discussion, really, except make it pretty clear the repair costs will be easily in excess of $30k. Total seems very probable. Hopefully it is win-win for the OP to get cashed out - it often is, but depends on when purchased, how much tax credit, etc.
 
Yes, it was (nearly) drivable. That’s what I mean. I base this only on your prior post with your estimates. If you had motor damage, etc., obviously not minor.

Yeah, that repair cost seems about right for relatively minor damage.

It doesn’t matter for this discussion, really, except make it pretty clear the repair costs will be easily in excess of $30k. Total seems very probable. Hopefully it is win-win for the OP to get cashed out - it often is, but depends on when purchased, how much tax credit, etc.

I will agree to disagree.

$29k is minor damage to a scratch on a Bugatti.
 
What puts tesla repair costs over the top is the upscale tesla repair procedures. If a body shop wants to keep it's Tesla certification...then they MUST comply with Tesla's procedures.

I watched my car every day. The Tesla repair/replacement procedure for my car was extensive down to the rivets and where they were required.

The OP's car will need a rear quarter panel and a door. The rear quarter panel comes as a whole piece. There is one at Auto Nation in Downers Grove as we speak.

What we can't see is the Axle situation.
 
Very glad you are ok. Lucky to get a hit in the rear quarter which allowed the car to spin and avoid some of the rapid energy dissipation. Very poor visibility heading into the intersection, as well.

1) It would be interesting to see the left repeater camera view, just to be able to judge the final impact velocity (can base it on motion per frame). I would guess a lot of braking got done by the offending party. Still a pretty hard hit but the spinning helped mitigate it.

2) If Florida were a TLF (Total Loss Formula) state, this would probably be a pretty easy total. But looks like they have an 80% threshold in Florida. So we’ll see. Depends on the type of Model 3, and prevailing body/paint labor rates. Hopefully there is significant hidden damage that drives the repair cost higher, and totals it.

I would think it will be at least $30k in damage, so it really does not make sense to repair it...but...silly laws...

Be sure to claim diminishment of value. That doesn’t count in the 80% formula, probably, but you definitely should get it!

3) How many airbags deployed in the Tesla?

Thank you for your insight, I really appreciate it. No airbags deployed.
 
Thank you for your insight, I really appreciate it. No airbags deployed.

Good luck. I really have settled on the guess that this will be a total loss. Probably you’ll get an initial quote from the adjuster suggesting $10-15k of damage, but the body shop will estimate $30-35k (which will be closer to correct - and does not include other expenses).

In Florida you don’t have quite as many state programs available which would make this declaration favorable to you financially...so we’ll see how it works out. The main reasons for it sometimes being ok are 1) The tax credits & other rebates which the insurance company does not take into account in the payout and 2) the rapid Tesla price drops (mostly due to lapsing tax credits), and there is some “stickiness” or lag in the value that insurance companies assign to vehicles.

There are definitely people who have had new cars totaled and ended up on the winning side of things...but less likely if you don’t have significant state credit/rebate benefits or utility programs...and less likely if you bought recently.

Let us know how it goes. Hope everyone’s necks are ok. That sort of rapid spinning seems like it could be pretty hard on the neck. Again, good luck with everything.

Do you have that left repeater footage available?
 
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If the insurance doesn’t decide to total the car, it won’t be totaled. It’s not like the car owner has a choice. But let’s see -

When just my quarterpanel was hit, my car was parked so it didn’t add to the impact and it was a $16k repair with two months of rental $2500 and now you can’t even tell if it was ever in an accident.

In this case, let’s assume that the repairs will be about $30k at the most. And say, two months of rental $2500. Assuming this is a year old long range AWD, total loss cash-out would not be above $40k considering depreciation. Insurance may total the car, pay OP $40k, and make money off the totaled car parts?
 
Good luck. I really have settled on the guess that this will be a total loss. Probably you’ll get an initial quote from the adjuster suggesting $10-15k of damage, but the body shop will estimate $30-35k (which will be closer to correct - and does not include other expenses).

In Florida you don’t have quite as many state programs available which would make this declaration favorable to you financially...so we’ll see how it works out. The main reasons for it sometimes being ok are 1) The tax credits & other rebates which the insurance company does not take into account in the payout and 2) the rapid Tesla price drops (mostly due to lapsing tax credits), and there is some “stickiness” or lag in the value that insurance companies assign to vehicles.

There are definitely people who have had new cars totaled and ended up on the winning side of things...but less likely if you don’t have significant state credit/rebate benefits or utility programs...and less likely if you bought recently.

Let us know how it goes. Hope everyone’s necks are ok. That sort of rapid spinning seems like it could be pretty hard on the neck. Again, good luck with everything.

Do you have that left repeater footage available?