Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model 3 Drag Racing?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Anyone else here drag race there Tesla Model 3? I own a gutted Long Range AWD Model 3 which currently runs a 7.3 in the 1/8.

The only "mods" I have done to the car is the interior is fully gutted an I have Martian Wheels. I haven't tapped into the suspension, carbon parts, etc.

Wanted to know if there is any other M3 out there that we can bounce ideas off of. My goal is 6 secs in the 1/8 mile.
188678251_4074652392627920_4117702617913659431_n.jpg
 
What's your ET with a gutted interior? Most of us are at 7.2* with pretty much a stock car and just a couple of mods. Heck, mine was 7.2 on the all season conti tires.

Also, the vehicle's motors are torque limited, so there's not going to be much you can do except lighten the car even more. Radials don't even seem to help because of that control system limitation.
 
What's your ET with a gutted interior? Most of us are at 7.2* with pretty much a stock car and just a couple of mods. Heck, mine was 7.2 on the all season conti tires.

Also, the vehicle's motors are torque limited, so there's not going to be much you can do except lighten the car even more. Radials don't even seem to help because of that control system limitation.
youre running 7.2 with a awd lr?
 
Drag racing with an EV is interesting because it's pretty easy with an EV to program in acceleration instead of power. The computer could make a car run a specific 0-60 or 1/8th every time, independent of weight or conditions.

Some people have said the Model 3 does this. They say if you datalog the car on a flat road vs uphill, it draws more power uphill and delivers near the same performance. This is a good way for Tesla to create a pecking order in their cars based on price, given the drivetrain is almost always computer limited instead of design limited like an ICE engine, and it gives the owner the very specific performance they paid for. Tesla could easily release software that added 100kW to the power, and the car would do it and survive a 1/8 run no problem. But they don't because they want the Model S to be faster than a Model 3.

I'm interested- do you have data showing your runs getting faster as you have reduced weight?
 
  • Like
Reactions: EVolv3d
What's your ET with a gutted interior? Most of us are at 7.2* with pretty much a stock car and just a couple of mods. Heck, mine was 7.2 on the all season conti tires.
I think you mean a P, which the OP is not. I'm modded to a Performance with some minor weight reduction and I run a 7.2. Before flashing to P, I was running 7.5 in my AWD+ (with weight reduction).

@OP - I like to drag race but it's been a while since I hit the strip due to winter and spring weather - should be changing as soon as this rain stops. Current mods are in my signature, and I've removed the back seat. I've thought about gutting but I'd rather keep it as my daily that can handle a passenger. I have some run's and races uploaded and will try to put more up more soon from some street races. My best 1/4 mile is 11.33 on Dragtimes. What's your 0-60? It'd be worth getting a Dragy if you want to be able to do some fairly reliable testing outside of just the track.

Instagram is nice but you should post here too regarding your weight reduction amount, what your goal is, show us some time slips, etc to engage the conversation.

Look at MPP rotors (here and here) - I got them to make the fronts and they fit stock diameter brakes. Will shave a decent little amount on unsprung weight. Lexan glass is another option but UPP charges a pretty penny for them. Then there's UPP carbon fiber doors if you really want to knock yourself out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountainPass
More then likely yes but I wasn't willing to spend that much more for a tenth or two

I can sort of understand that, but your modifications probably have done "as much damage" to the car as the difference in price (in car value). I certainly am not saying you shouldnt have done it or anything, just that gutting the car has likely reduced its value to somewhere near the difference in price between the two cars.

Of course, I fall into the camp of "you only realize any car depreciation when you sell, before that, its just a number", so if you never intended to sell the current car, that difference doesnt matter.

I am just surprised at someone searching for speed, with a car that currently is not tunable (unlike most ICE vehicles), not buying the performance version. Your use case is one where the difference might actually be noticed.