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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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Hey guys i’m new to the community and currently awaiting LT model 3 it said Prepare for delivery between July 21 and August 8 now it just switched to 7 to 11 weeks does anybody have a guess of what might be more accurate?
Mine does the same thing, fluctuating between the more to less specific, I imagine it will narrow to more definite over this month.
 
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Since we’re on the topic of charging solutions, if you go the NEMA 14-50 route, please get a QUALITY 14-50 receptacle. This is critically important if you’ll be using the included mobile charger and plan on carrying the charger and the 14-50 adapter with you.

All NEMA 14-50 receptacles you find at your local home improvement stores for $10 are not intended for continuous plugging and unplugging. Many receptacles are made for household appliances where you plug them in, and that’s it until the unit dies in 10 years. Most will use a single screw-down design, which places pressure on one side of the wiring instead of the more expensive clamp-down design, which applies equal pressure on all sides of the wiring.

Over time, and I’m talking months, the cheaper receptacle's contacts loosen, which leads to a poor connection with the plug and a rapid increase in heat and can cause a fire. If you’re installing new work, you’ll likely see and smell the components and catch them in time to replace them. If you’re installing in old work (e.g., existing drywall), it’s much more likely that you won’t catch it until you see damage to the front of the receptacle, which means the back of the receptacle is already trashed.

Spend the time, and money, to get a higher quality receptacle that is intended for repeated use. I personally like the Hubbell and it supports copper wiring only.

That particular Hubbell 14-50R is rated for 50 amps, so your chosen charger will draw a maximum of 40A, which will net you somewhere in the neighborhood of 33-36 mph.

Receptacle Comparison
 
Since we’re on the topic of charging solutions, if you go the NEMA 14-50 route, please get a QUALITY 14-50 receptacle. This is critically important if you’ll be using the included mobile charger and plan on carrying the charger and the 14-50 adapter with you.

All NEMA 14-50 receptacles you find at your local home improvement stores for $10 are not intended for continuous plugging and unplugging. Many receptacles are made for household appliances where you plug them in, and that’s it until the unit dies in 10 years. Most will use a single screw-down design, which places pressure on one side of the wiring instead of the more expensive clamp-down design, which applies equal pressure on all sides of the wiring.

Over time, and I’m talking months, the cheaper receptacle's contacts loosen, which leads to a poor connection with the plug and a rapid increase in heat and can cause a fire. If you’re installing new work, you’ll likely see and smell the components and catch them in time to replace them. If you’re installing in old work (e.g., existing drywall), it’s much more likely that you won’t catch it until you see damage to the front of the receptacle, which means the back of the receptacle is already trashed.

Spend the time, and money, to get a higher quality receptacle that is intended for repeated use. I personally like the Hubbell and it supports copper wiring only.

That particular Hubbell 14-50R is rated for 50 amps, so your chosen charger will draw a maximum of 40A, which will net you somewhere in the neighborhood of 33-36 mph.

Receptacle Comparison
I don’t plan to ever remove the adapter / Mobil charger from the garage. I plan to just get another mobile charger for the car which is cheaper then the home charger option. I will check the wiring know every couple months to just make sure they stay tight. Good information!
 
Day two of generic 7–11 weeks
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I don’t plan to ever remove the adapter / Mobil charger from the garage. I plan to just get another mobile charger for the car which is cheaper then the home charger option. I will check the wiring know every couple months to just make sure they stay tight. Good information!
If I feel the need to check it often, then I would get better components from the start. Who knows what may happen if I forget to check for some time. Worse, even if it’s plugged in all the time so there’s always some current draw. Mine is installed in old work, so if I had to remove that receptacle one time to check thick and rigid copper wiring, I would never want to do it again.

For me, the argument for mobile charger vs home charger for me was whether I wanted to take full advantage of the new circuit, which I do, so that basically knocks out the mobile charger and if I wanted something a bit more rugged than the mobile charger.
 
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As we are all waiting here, can everyone share your charging setup/plans? Personally I would like to have a Tesla Wall charger or even a Nema 14-50 set up in my garage. I ve seen many posts (rightly) pointing out that the 14-50 might be enough as it can charge at 30 miles an hour and thats enough for an overnight charge up and the wall charger might be overkill. But my problem is not buying the wall charger itself — I have a detached garage and my main panel is in the basement. So getting a 240V - 60A line to the garage is the challenge. I had everything planned out to do it myself (I do DIY electrical stuff around my house all the time), but unfortunately I cant get a permit myself and only a licensed electrician can do it. With the material prices also being high, Im getting quotes around $4800 for this installation (not including the wall charger - just to run the line! (Garage is about 35 ft away from the house and there is about 50ft distance from the main panel inside the house to the edge of the house closest to the garage)

Luckily my office building has ChargePoint chargers that are free for us and charges at 20 mi/hour. So Im planning to adjust with that for now and see if the prices go down before running the 240V line. I would rather spend that money on FSD for now.
I purchased my own cable (NMB 6/3) 110ft at about $410. Had an agreement with a local electrician that if I ran the wire he would terminate it at both ends for $250. So I was able to save $1,000 by running the cable myself. You might find a friendly local that would make that sort of agreement with you.
 
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Pro Tip: if you’re going to run your own ROMEX, choose 6/2. You don’t need 6/3 since there isn’t a neutral in 220/240v applications. Neutral is needed for 120v appliances. Choosing 6/2 removes the unnecessary neutral, and allows you to run the wiring a bit easier.

Downside: It’s typically easier to find 6/3 locally packaged. Even though the neutral isn’t required, having it included does assist with future proofing in the event a 110/120v appliance is moved to you new circuitry since some elements of a stove or dishwasher run on 110 and others 220. And of course, if you’re running ROMEX, you likely only want to run it once. You can find 6/2 but it’ll typically need to be cut by the foot, so know how much you need in advance.
 
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If I feel the need to check it often, then I would get better components from the start. Who knows what may happen if I forget to check for some time. Worse, even if it’s plugged in all the time so there’s always some current draw. Mine is installed in old work, so if I had to remove that receptacle one time to check thick and rigid copper wiring, I would never want to do it again.

For me, the argument for mobile charger vs home charger for me was whether I wanted to take full advantage of the new circuit, which I do, so that basically knocks out the mobile charger and if I wanted something a bit more rugged than the mobile charger.
I have an RV but have a separate 30A (120v) and so do my friends so I wanted the 14-50 connector which is used on 50A (240v) RVs. I’ll see how this works and order another mobile or get the home charger at a later date. Just glad to discuss the pros and cons. Thanks.
 
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I have what is available to buy is not what I want but you can still get discounts (Audi SUV has the $7,500 gov incnetive plus audi is discounting the car here I could get a $65k MSRP audi for the same price as the Tesla).

I extended my lease already to the maximum they allow. The Tesla is the first car I will purchased I normally lease either a BMW, Audi or Benz (Tesla leases are garbage rates). One of the reasons I lease is to avoid issues dealing with accidents and diminished value. Unfortunately the benz I have now was hit by a pickup truck while I was stopped, and I cant sell it for more than the buyout.
You can make a third-party claim for inherent diminished value against the insurance company of the responsible party.
 
I have a 200 amp service panel outside of my house and I park my car right next to it. I'm tempted to just install a 14-50 NEMA outlet box just right next to box and run the wire through conduit. That should be fine right? Do I really need to hire an electrician and get a permit just for that?

I should add that all of the house electrical (outside of the high amp appliances like the stove, washer/dryer, and 3 AC units) are on a separate subpanel that is rated for 50 amps it looks like.
I did this exactly. Attached the outdoor rated 14-50 box to the side of the house and ran my own 6/3 UF through a short piece of conduit connecting it to my 200amp outdoor panel. Was very easy to do just make sure you follow typical precautions as that is A LOT of power lol.
 
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