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Model 3 Performance Spacers

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Can you explain how these work? Model plus says they can only be used on OEM wheels but I’m confused. Do these basically extend the factory lugs so that you can have enough thread length? Are they hard to install?
The H&R won't work with your wheels. The lug opening needs to be about 18mm in ID which is very unique to the OEM wheels. The shank for the H&R lugnut has about a 17mm OD iirc. Please see picture I took below.

1647476733135.png




In reference to the spacer issue you would have with both Rohana, Momo, Forgestar, and ADV.1 is due to the diameter of the wheel mating surface or wheel pad if I understand you correctly. I also discovered this when trying to use spacers on some Forgestar and Momo wheels I have. Please reference the Aspira spacer install guide here. They have done a great job in illustrating the measurements you need to make, aside from pocket depth, to ensure that the wheels are compatible with studded spacers.


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The H&R won't work with your wheels. The lug opening needs to be about 18mm in ID which is very unique to the OEM wheels. The shank for the H&R lugnut has about a 17mm OD iirc. Please see picture I took below.

View attachment 781840



In reference to the spacer issue you would have with both Rohana, Momo, Forgestar, and ADV.1 is due to the diameter of the wheel mating surface or wheel pad if I understand you correctly. I also discovered this when trying to use spacers on some Forgestar and Momo wheels I have. Please reference the Aspira spacer install guide here. They have done a great job in illustrating the measurements you need to make, aside from pocket depth, to ensure that the wheels are compatible with studded spacers.


View attachment 781837

View attachment 781838
Thanks. Bummer. I saw the note and it says 17mm diameter and I wondered about that. There is plenty of space in rohanna but you are saying no chance it’s 17mm?

Refarding the Aspira yeah it’s the location of the rubbing that’s the issue. I’m not sure even a 25mm would clear it. Shaving the lugs might but I really don’t want to go down that path. Interesting that the forgestars did not rub.
 

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This is certainly buyer beware territory. I had no reason to believe the 20mm wouldn’t work with the Rohanna since it did with the forgestar. I’m not very knowledgeable on these issues. I still like the wheels but it’s a bummer that I can’t get the stance I want. I considered custom offsets but that has some different drawbacks. Oh well. You live and learn. Anyone running 8mm slip ons? I had them but removed over concerns over stud length.
 
This is certainly buyer beware territory. I had no reason to believe the 20mm wouldn’t work with the Rohanna since it did with the forgestar. I’m not very knowledgeable on these issues. I still like the wheels but it’s a bummer that I can’t get the stance I want. I considered custom offsets but that has some different drawbacks. Oh well. You live and learn. Anyone running 8mm slip ons? I had them but removed over concerns over stud length.
Thank you for seeing where I mentioned the 17mm OD for the shank. Most aftermarket wheels designed for a M14 stud have a 15mm hole.

As for studded spacers it is definitely not common but does happen.

You would need a 27mm spacer to clear the oem stud length on a non performance model 3 and 32mm for an oem rotor P3D with red calipers. I hope this is helpful.

I've been in the wheel and suspension world going on 30 years now so I hope to provide quantifiable accurate info for people to make educated decisions. I'm so tied up in the office or under a car that I don't have time to frequent the forum but when I do I hope to contribute valuable information to the community. I wish a moderator could pin the Aspira install guide to the top of this forum.
 
Can you explain how these work? Model plus says they can only be used on OEM wheels but I’m confused. Do these basically extend the factory lugs so that you can have enough thread length? Are they hard to install?
The spacers just slip over the lip on the rotor and over the original studs. The new lugs have a little extension in through the uber's original hole to achieve proper engagement to the original studs. Mine had great tolerances and now they just come off with my wheel when I remove it. The only downside for me was that if I upgrade my OEM wheels I may need a different spacer.
 
The spacers just slip over the lip on the rotor and over the original studs. The new lugs have a little extension in through the uber's original hole to achieve proper engagement to the original studs. Mine had great tolerances and now they just come off with my wheel when I remove it. The only downside for me was that if I upgrade my OEM wheels I may need a different spacer.
This is correct. If you get aftermarket wheels you will likely need a different spacer.

I just made this post and hope it can be made sticky. This highlights the other measurements people will need to make when looking into a studded spacer.
 
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Can someone tag a moderator and request this be made a sticky? I don't know who holds the power around here. lol.

 
Thank you for seeing where I mentioned the 17mm OD for the shank. Most aftermarket wheels designed for a M14 stud have a 15mm hole.

As for studded spacers it is definitely not common but does happen.

You would need a 27mm spacer to clear the oem stud length on a non performance model 3 and 32mm for an oem rotor P3D with red calipers. I hope this is helpful.

I've been in the wheel and suspension world going on 30 years now so I hope to provide quantifiable accurate info for people to make educated decisions. I'm so tied up in the office or under a car that I don't have time to frequent the forum but when I do I hope to contribute valuable information to the community. I wish a moderator could pin the Aspira install guide to the top of this forum.
Thoughts on an 8mm slip on? I’ve read that is the max safe width for the OEM lugs. I tried it and got nervous and took them off. Alternatively how hard would it be to replace the OEM lugs to get a 10mm slip on there?
 
Thoughts on an 8mm slip on? I’ve read that is the max safe width for the OEM lugs. I tried it and got nervous and took them off. Alternatively how hard would it be to replace the OEM lugs to get a 10mm slip on there?

I'm sure @P3D-R will answer as well (their contributions in this thread have been excellent), but my research seems to indicate: 5mm max for a traditional/OEM lug, 10mm max for an extended shank lug, otherwise you need either bolt-on style spacers (with the appropriate clearances as discussed) or slip-on style with aftermarket extended lugs.
 
I'm sure @P3D-R will answer as well (their contributions in this thread have been excellent), but my research seems to indicate: 5mm max for a traditional/OEM lug, 10mm max for an extended shank lug, otherwise you need either bolt-on style spacers (with the appropriate clearances as discussed) or slip-on style with aftermarket extended lugs.
I’ve heard different opinions in going to 8mm on OEM lugs.
 
I’ve heard different opinions in going to 8mm on OEM lugs.
This is all relative to what your brake rotor setup is. What trim is your car? What color are your calipers? Do you have OEM rotors?

I don't consider this gospel but hope this can provide clarification as to what those spacer sizes relate to:

8mm is barely acceptable on an OEM P3D 2 piece rotor/red calipers if it has 32mm of stud protrusion.
3mm is barely acceptable on a non P3D or one with aftermarket rotors with 27mm stud protrusion.

I hope that answers your question.

I opted to get extended studs and never looked back. This is by far one of my favorite mods but I change wheels A LOT and need to play with my offsets all the time. Especially if I want to maintain my reputation as a function wheel fitment consultant. LOL.
 
This is all relative to what your brake rotor setup is. What trim is your car? What color are your calipers? Do you have OEM rotors?

I don't consider this gospel but hope this can provide clarification as to what those spacer sizes relate to:

8mm is barely acceptable on an OEM P3D 2 piece rotor/red calipers if it has 32mm of stud protrusion.
3mm is barely acceptable on a non P3D or one with aftermarket rotors with 27mm stud protrusion.

I hope that answers your question.

I opted to get extended studs and never looked back. This is by far one of my favorite mods but I change wheels A LOT and need to play with my offsets all the time. Especially if I want to maintain my reputation as a function wheel fitment consultant. LOL.
P3D. OEM brakes and rotors. How involved is extending the lugs and thank you for the thoughtful responses.
 
P3D. OEM brakes and rotors. How involved is extending the lugs and thank you for the thoughtful responses.
I removed my hubs to do it but I have some friends that have not. I think it depends on your model year and it there's an area behind your rotor that is not covered by the dust shield where you can bang out the oem stud and extract it. As for sucking the new one in it is pretty easy with some open ended lugnuts and washers. I can't get into too much detail but there's many auto shops that can probably do it for you. Our studs bang out very easily. You don't even need a heavy deadblow.

These are the studs and they are Mustang studs.
 
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Update. Ordered some new Rohanna to replace my Forgestars. Sadly, even with 20mm spacers, they did not have deep enough pockets in the wheels. The the factory lugs were grinding against the rim. Even tried adding a 5mm slip spacer on top of the 20mm and it still rubbed.
I’m kinda surprised, Rohana RFX5 fits fine with spacers. The RFX11 hub casting must be different. The extended thread lug nuts definitely won’t fit without drilling.
4CDD464D-71D6-4B36-9856-BBF63609FCBE.jpeg
 
The H&R won't work with your wheels. The lug opening needs to be about 18mm in ID which is very unique to the OEM wheels. The shank for the H&R lugnut has about a 17mm OD iirc. Please see picture I took below.

View attachment 781840



In reference to the spacer issue you would have with both Rohana, Momo, Forgestar, and ADV.1 is due to the diameter of the wheel mating surface or wheel pad if I understand you correctly. I also discovered this when trying to use spacers on some Forgestar and Momo wheels I have. Please reference the Aspira spacer install guide here. They have done a great job in illustrating the measurements you need to make, aside from pocket depth, to ensure that the wheels are compatible with studded spacers.


View attachment 781837

View attachment 781838


I have ET shank lugs that have an OD of just under 16mm (15.86mm) that I have been using on my wheels, both OEM and TSW Watkins (just barely fit thru the TSWs). They won't fit through my SSR GTX01's or Enkei NT03s though :-(

Have you looked at different lugs for something smaller than 17mm to let more wheels fit? Mine i just found off of ebay and have used them for a couple of years now during autox etc with no problems.
 
I have ET shank lugs that have an OD of just under 16mm (15.86mm) that I have been using on my wheels, both OEM and TSW Watkins (just barely fit thru the TSWs). They won't fit through my SSR GTX01's or Enkei NT03s though :-(

Have you looked at different lugs for something smaller than 17mm to let more wheels fit? Mine i just found off of ebay and have used them for a couple of years now during autox etc with no problems.
I also have some ET shanks but was a little worried about the wall thickness of them. You haven't had any issues? What size spacer are you using?
 
Thoughts on an 8mm slip on? I’ve read that is the max safe width for the OEM lugs. I tried it and got nervous and took them off. Alternatively how hard would it be to replace the OEM lugs to get a 10mm slip on there?

Well the 3P has that lip due to the thinner rotor hat. That lip is just under 3mm. So that means you have almost 3mm of extra lug sticking out vs the non P cars. So technically you can put on a 8mm and should have enough thread to tighten 7.5 turns with the stock lugs. I will be trying this tomorrow with an 8mm and 10mm slip on using stock and ET lug nuts on my 3P with the 20" Ubertines.
 
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