Hi TexaCali - Could you share the link or source where you got this very detailed info? We just received our 2023 M3 and would love to look up the details on what our car includes.
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Model 3 SR+ LFP Battery Range, Degradation, etc Discussion
- Thread starter Baluchi
- Start date
Just hit 1k miles in a week and a half. Loving the car. My battery is a little strange. Now showing more miles than when I first bought. Day 1 was 267. Now at 273. I charge daily to 85% and 2x a week to 100.
I agree. I have reservations about the accuracy of the displayed range in terms of degradation. I went away on holidays and charged almost daily to 100% which showed 428km. I then drove home and charged to 100% now it is 422km the next day. Only difference is the climate. It makes little sense to me.
So for me right now at 12 months / 23k km I’m at 422.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
It’s very good within a few percent.
Which is all you need with a buffer of 4.5%. Don’t go below 0% and in most cases there will be no surprises.
45,000 mile (72,000 km) update for my Sep 2021 SR+ LFP. The car is now 18 months old and was originally rated at 253 miles on a full charge. The Tessie app shows a battery capacity of 52.0 kWh (down 4.8% from my original 23 Oct 2021 post of 54.6 kWh), and a max range of 241 miles (down 4.8% from my original range of 253 miles). I've had Tessie since my first day or two or ownership, so this data shows the entire life of the car.
According to the car's screen, I'm averaging 212 Wh/mi over the life of the car (the same as it was at the 40,000 mile update)--we've barely had a winter here this year, so my average wh/mi has actually gone down over the last several months due to the warm weather. Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi when it's below 30f, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile round-trip commute. Assuming I could tap into the current 52.0 kWh battery at my lifetime average 212 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 245.3 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E delivering 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge most nights due to a long commute, typically to about 70-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average because I'm a beekeeper and I make honey deliveries across a few counties most weekends (going to do that after I post this, in fact)...I use both Superchargers and CCS chargers like Electrify America or Chargepoint, depending on which are more convenient at the time.
Tessie says I've spent $1,136.70 on electricity driving the car, while the same distance in my old Ford Focus would've cost $4,403.39 in gasoline. So my fuel costs have been 26% compared to keeping my old car. Assuming the average US emissions of 0.85 pounds CO2 per kWh, the 9,615 kWh used while driving equates to 8,173 pounds of CO2 spent driving my Tesla. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 1,224 gallons of gas to travel these 45,291 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 23,257 pounds of CO2. So I'm spewing 35% of the carbon emissions than I would've released in my efficient little Focus. As the grid moves toward more renewables, that should only get better over the life of the car.
AND ANOTHER THING...I'm currently in the process of having an 11.1 kw solar system installed. This array should provide enough energy to cover all of my electricity use over the course of the year, so once we flip the switch my Tesla will be a true zero emission vehicle.
I'll try to post another update at 50,000 miles.
According to the car's screen, I'm averaging 212 Wh/mi over the life of the car (the same as it was at the 40,000 mile update)--we've barely had a winter here this year, so my average wh/mi has actually gone down over the last several months due to the warm weather. Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi when it's below 30f, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile round-trip commute. Assuming I could tap into the current 52.0 kWh battery at my lifetime average 212 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 245.3 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E delivering 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge most nights due to a long commute, typically to about 70-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average because I'm a beekeeper and I make honey deliveries across a few counties most weekends (going to do that after I post this, in fact)...I use both Superchargers and CCS chargers like Electrify America or Chargepoint, depending on which are more convenient at the time.
Tessie says I've spent $1,136.70 on electricity driving the car, while the same distance in my old Ford Focus would've cost $4,403.39 in gasoline. So my fuel costs have been 26% compared to keeping my old car. Assuming the average US emissions of 0.85 pounds CO2 per kWh, the 9,615 kWh used while driving equates to 8,173 pounds of CO2 spent driving my Tesla. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 1,224 gallons of gas to travel these 45,291 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 23,257 pounds of CO2. So I'm spewing 35% of the carbon emissions than I would've released in my efficient little Focus. As the grid moves toward more renewables, that should only get better over the life of the car.
AND ANOTHER THING...I'm currently in the process of having an 11.1 kw solar system installed. This array should provide enough energy to cover all of my electricity use over the course of the year, so once we flip the switch my Tesla will be a true zero emission vehicle.
I'll try to post another update at 50,000 miles.
PianoAl
Active Member
I'd like to get definitive answers on how much an uncalibrated BMS might be off. If I don't charge to 100% for a year, could it overestimate the remaining range by, say, 40 miles?
We rarely drive Tessie, and I hate to have her sit at 100%. We've even gone on drives just so we can get her to 100% but not leave her there.
Maybe I should only charge to 80%, but always assume I shouldn't go below X% SOC.
Would charging to 65-70% be ok for your use when you expect the car to be parked for a while (days or weeks)? Those degradation curves that @AAKEE tends to post suggest that, if you are concerned enough about LFP battery degradation, you may want to avoid longer term parking above about 70%. However, LFP batteries are likely to degrade less than NCA batteries to begin with, so it may not matter as much as with NCA batteries.
Good stuff as usual Balachi. I just crossed the 10,000 mile threshhold on my car (bought roughly same time as yours) and charging to 55% gives me 132 miles (translates to 240 miles at 100%). I’m wondering, what is your average speed while commuting? I’m guessing it is not 80mph!
Last commute had an average of 58 mph, and a max 77 mph, which seems typical.
Looking at my lifetime stats, a vast majority of my miles are between 50-60 mph, which also happens to be my most efficient range.
PianoAl
Active Member
That would be okay. Even in emergency in which it needed to be driven farther, it could visit a super
Sorry, I forgot to ask before, but you always get better watt hours than I do and I am wondering if your tire pressure is a bit higher than mine. I fill them up to 42 every 2 or 3 months, but they seem to slip back down to 40 fairly quickly. Thuis time around I’m going to try 45…
Tyre pressure numbers are ”cold tyre numbers”. Driving heats the tyres so the preasure during driving, or newly driven should not be the reference.
Should be checked when the car has not been driven for a while.
Should also be adopted for ambient temperature.
Each 10C drop in temp drop the tyre pressure about 1 PSI or 0.1bar-ish.
In winter this needs to be adjusted if the car is in the garage when the pressure is checked. If the garage is +10C and the outside air temp is -20C we need to have about 3PSI higher pressure if checking in the garage.
I use 3.2 (45.7 psi) bar in cold winter when checking in the garage and 3.1 (44 psi) in the later winter and spring.
Picture from this morning, the temperature was rising quickly (-12C) but it was -20C during the night.
Front left wheel is in the sun, heated from that while the other three is shadowed.
This time of the year I have 3.1 bar set with “cold tyres” in my garage at home.
Looks like moving from 40psi to 45psi might have dropped my watt hours per mile from around 220 to around 195…
I don’t really have a number for the original watt hours for the particular drive I took today, just that for the last year or so they have averaged 220. Could have been for that particular 40-mile drive I did today, that I was getting something lower than 220 even with 40psi. So, for instance, could actually have dropped from 210 watt hours per mile to 195…
I think you might be in a honeymoon period at this point. After a couple more months you might notice it slipping down a few miles. Most of the degradation seems to be time-oriented rather than usage oriented. Baluchi got his car around when I got mine, but Baluchi drives about 5 times as many miles as I do. Yet our cars seem to show pretty much equivalent ranges. But for a few weeks after I first bought the car I was seeing the range go up a couple miles like you have.
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