Model 3 subwoofer install.

[play150]

Has anyone tried this: Amazon.com. I know it's not a comprehensive solution but I'm wondering if it would improve low-end in a meaningful way for modest money and way less work. To say nothing of steering clear of dreaded "cannot maintain power" codes and the like

I purchased this and have it in my possession haha (the subwoofer + two bottom front door speaker version). But I've been too busy/lazy to install it >_<

 

[dfwatt]

I purchased this and have it in my possession haha (the subwoofer + two bottom front door speaker version). But I've been too busy/lazy to install it >_<

Too bad because your feedback would be most useful. Any idea when you might install?

 

[play150]

Too bad because your feedback would be most useful. Any idea when you might install?

I'll try to do it tonight
Is there anything I should do before and aftee to see if there's actually any difference? (Other than just subjectively listening to Panda and Tiësto)

 

[dfwatt]

I'll try to do it tonight
Is there anything I should do before and aftee to see if there's actually any difference? (Other than just subjectively listening to Panda and Tiësto)

If you have test tones, which a lot of people don't have, run through the low-frequency including particularly the 20, 30, and 40 Hertz. On the stock system the 20 Hz reproduction is pretty much gone. A big issue with super low end output in a car is sympathetic resonance, which takes all your impressive distortion specs from your subwoofer and amplifier and adds a boatload of second order and perhaps other odd order Distortion from all the objects in the car resonating. Panels, doors, everything, and you can only reduce that by Dynamatting everything. It's part of why I think chasing the kind of low end that some guys are chasing (where you could probably cause internal hemorrhaging if you turn the system all the way up from the infrasonic!) it's just not worth the hassle. I'm curious what a driver alone swap out can do. It made a big difference on the 4in quasi full-range drivers in the dash and rear doors (no Bass Drive on those drivers as they have a sharp high pass filter set I think around 250 Hertz). Or even just listening to your favorite piece of music with decent low-end and doing an A B comparison. The super tuners of course will remind us that low end requires lots of current and without upgrading the amp there's a definite limit to what you can expect from drivers alone, especially if you're looking for lots of volume. But I'm not and unlike a lot of stereo tuners I'm not as interested in a 10 DB bass boost. I think that sounds unrealistic and unappealing. And I'm also not willing to risk throwing codes.. Any impressions are valuable.

 

[play150]

If you have test tones, which a lot of people don't have, run through the low-frequency including particularly the 20, 30, and 40 Hertz. On the stock system the 20 Hz reproduction is pretty much gone. A big issue with super low end output in a car is sympathetic resonance, which takes all your impressive distortion specs from your subwoofer and amplifier and adds a boatload of second order and perhaps other odd order Distortion from all the objects in the car resonating. Panels, doors, everything, and you can only reduce that by Dynamatting everything. It's part of why I think chasing the kind of low end that some guys are chasing (where you could probably cause internal hemorrhaging if you turn the system all the way up from the infrasonic!) it's just not worth the hassle. I'm curious what a driver alone swap out can do. It made a big difference on the 4in quasi full-range drivers in the dash and rear doors (no Bass Drive on those drivers as they have a sharp high pass filter set I think around 250 Hertz). Or even just listening to your favorite piece of music with decent low-end and doing an A B comparison. The super tuners of course will remind us that low end requires lots of current and without upgrading the amp there's a definite limit to what you can expect from drivers alone, especially if you're looking for lots of volume. But I'm not and unlike a lot of stereo tuners I'm not as interested in a 10 DB bass boost. I think that sounds unrealistic and unappealing. And I'm also not willing to risk throwing codes.. Any impressions are valuable.

I finished work late in the evening but in my mind I had but one thought: @dfwatt needs me!!

So I've finished installing the Light Harmonic front door bass speakers + subwoofer.

I like how nothing has to be changed other than the speaker cones.

I think there's definitely more bass! I had to previously get the volume between half and 2/3 full to get enough of the "bass feeling", but now at the same volume it can feel too much even! Now I'm between 1/3 and 1/2. Maybe I won't have to go deaf now (since I'd previously have to up the volume to get the bass, but it still meant some increase in loudness amongst the other frequencies even after I lowered them with the EQ)

I can even sort of feel air being pushed by the door speaker now o.o I think the bass is punchier now which is nice. It isn't magically the best bass system now but it's a nice boost. The stronger bass has also allowed me to make my EQ less unbalanced, where previously I was sacrificing all the other frequencies to get more bass. I still haven't nailed the EQ settings with the new set up though! With the new set up sometimes something sounds off to me, but this was how I felt until I found ideal EQ settings with the stock speakers

tldr: Before the Model 3 (premium audio) needed 50%+ volume to get the bass going, but with the Light Harmonic door speakers + subwoofer you get bass at lower volumes.

 

[cfbackrow]

I finished work late in the evening but in my mind I had but one thought: @dfwatt needs me!!

So I've finished installing the Light Harmonic front door bass speakers + subwoofer.

I like how nothing has to be changed other than the speaker cones.

I think there's definitely more bass! I had to previously get the volume between half and 2/3 full to get enough of the "bass feeling", but now at the same volume it can feel too much even! Now I'm between 1/3 and 1/2. Maybe I won't have to go deaf now (since I'd previously have to up the volume to get the bass, but it still meant some increase in loudness amongst the other frequencies even after I lowered them with the EQ)

I can even sort of feel air being pushed by the door speaker now o.o I think the bass is punchier now which is nice. It isn't magically the best bass system now but it's a nice boost. The stronger bass has also allowed me to make my EQ less unbalanced, where previously I was sacrificing all the other frequencies to get more bass. I still haven't nailed the EQ settings with the new set up though! With the new set up sometimes something sounds off to me, but this was how I felt until I found ideal EQ settings with the stock speakers

tldr: Before the Model 3 (premium audio) needed 50%+ volume to get the bass going, but with the Light Harmonic door speakers + subwoofer you get bass at lower volumes.

Hi I have a SR+ on order and want to increase the base and clarity in a easy/ budget friendly way...would you say the LH door speakers and 3 dash speakers would make a impact? or should I just do the NVX upgrade? thanks

 

[dfwatt]

Hi I have a SR+ on order and want to increase the base and clarity in a easy/ budget friendly way...would you say the LH door speakers and 3 dash speakers would make a impact? or should I just do the NVX upgrade? thanks

Replacing the three front speakers actually gives you the biggest bang for your buck. I used Infiniti 4022s but there are several other options. Difference was very substantial. I have Dynamatted the front door speakers but I have not swapped them out. That's next - see @play150

 

[fossilcreek]

So I've spent a few weeks lurking in the various subwoofer installation threads and it was the first modification I did when I took delivery. I only needed to buy two items for my subwoofer install, this wiring kit, and I chose this subwoofer.
I have done multiple audio installations in the past so I'm familiar with the process and the equipment. I chose a powered subwoofer so that I could still utilize my subtrunk if needed and I'm also not too interested in replicating extreme lows or audiophile quality sharpness in the bass. I just wanted more low-end in the simplest manner possible.
I chose this sub over the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P Punch simply because it took up less space. I am well aware it is an inferior subwoofer, but it takes up less space and that was the main goal. Honestly either would work as they both have remote turn on built in.
Because remote turn on is already integrated all I had to was connect the power/positive cable to the DC/DC under the rear seat, connect the ground wire to the factory amp ground location, and tap into the high-level signal wires on the factory subwoofer input.

The above images, which I found elsewhere in the forums, were the most helpful to me.

I mounted my sub to the rear of the sub-trunk, facing the cabin, as that configuration makes it simple to tune and adjust.

Below is right after testing and before I mounted it.

This really is an extremely simple job if you use a powered subwoofer!

 

[play150]

So I've spent a few weeks lurking in the various subwoofer installation threads and it was the first modification I did when I took delivery. I only needed to buy two items for my subwoofer install, this wiring kit, and I chose this subwoofer.
I have done multiple audio installations in the past so I'm familiar with the process and the equipment. I chose a powered subwoofer so that I could still utilize my subtrunk if needed and I'm also not too interested in replicating extreme lows or audiophile quality sharpness in the bass. I just wanted more low-end in the simplest manner possible.
I chose this sub over the Rockford Fosgate P300-8P Punch simply because it took up less space. I am well aware it is an inferior subwoofer, but it takes up less space and that was the main goal. Honestly either would work as they both have remote turn on built in.
Because remote turn on is already integrated all I had to was connect the power/positive cable to the DC/DC under the rear seat, connect the ground wire to the factory amp ground location, and tap into the high-level signal wires on the factory subwoofer input.

View attachment 709746
View attachment 709747
The above images, which I found elsewhere in the forums, were the most helpful to me.

I mounted my sub to the rear of the sub-trunk, facing the cabin, as that configuration makes it simple to tune and adjust.
View attachment 709749Below is right after testing and before I mounted it.
View attachment 709748

This really is an extremely simple job if you use a powered subwoofer!

Did you add your sub in addition to the existing sub?

 

[fossilcreek]

Did you add your sub in addition to the existing sub?

Nope! Left the stock sub unplugged.

 

[play150]

Nope! Left the stock sub unplugged.

Ohh and it's more powerful than the stock one??

 

[fossilcreek]

Ohh and it's more powerful than the stock one??

Well yes.... That's the point

 

[TFSMotorsport]

I doubt that very much...

 

[Candleflame]

im not sure what your underseat subwoofer is meant to achieve.

The Model 3 does not generate most higher subbass via the subwoofer - the sub in the back is literally only there to generate <40hz with most of "subbass" coming actually from the door speakers. As such adding such an underseat sub might have the appearance of giving a bit more thump at around 50-60hz. But that is at the cost of <40hz. Tbh the model 3 system already has a lot of bass at 50-60hz so im not really sure what this meant to be achieving.

Nevermind that it is likely the same or less RMS than the specifically matched subwoofer for the 3.

your setup doesnt really make sense.

 

[fossilcreek]

im not sure what your underseat subwoofer is meant to achieve.

Well, the subwoofer is mounted in the sub-trunk, not underneath any seats.

The Model 3 does not generate most higher subbass via the subwoofer - the sub in the back is literally only there to generate <40hz with most of "subbass" coming actually from the door speakers. As such adding such an underseat sub might have the appearance of giving a bit more thump at around 50-60hz. But that is at the cost of <40hz. Tbh the model 3 system already has a lot of bass at 50-60hz so im not really sure what this meant to be achieving.

I am aware of the limitations and tuning of the stock system.

Nevermind that it is likely the same or less RMS than the specifically matched subwoofer for the 3.

It is not a lower RMS, the OEM amplifier is quite weak.

your setup doesnt really make sense.

Thanks for your feedback! I'll keep it in mind if/when I decide to run a subwoofer under the seats.

 

[TFSMotorsport]

im not sure what your underseat subwoofer is meant to achieve.

The Model 3 does not generate most higher subbass via the subwoofer - the sub in the back is literally only there to generate <40hz with most of "subbass" coming actually from the door speakers. As such adding such an underseat sub might have the appearance of giving a bit more thump at around 50-60hz. But that is at the cost of <40hz. Tbh the model 3 system already has a lot of bass at 50-60hz so im not really sure what this meant to be achieving.

Nevermind that it is likely the same or less RMS than the specifically matched subwoofer for the 3.

your setup doesnt really make sense.

Not to mention that the stock enclosure is ported and larger and this is secured to the car via screws that go into the carpet...

For a sealed enclosure to hit lows it really needs to be larger than a ported enclosure, it will also need a larger amp.

This subwoofer has an amp that is fitted with a 25a fuse (so 250w) and has a 35hz subsonic filter, this has quite obvious implications when comparing to the stock item.

The premium system is actually really good including the subwoofer, it has a good amp and the sub itself is very light and punchy as is the case for all of the cars speakers, its not easy to improve on this without going over the 1000w you can get from the DC converter or battery

I have installed some very high end equipment in cars and I have installed systems such as this when the owners has not allowed me any more room to work with but why you would remove a large ported enclosure to fit a much smaller sealed enclosure for a performance gain is beyond me but provided the owner is happy with the system then great thats perfect but anyone considering the same should take a second look.

 

[fossilcreek]

The premium system is actually really good including the subwoofer, it has a good amp and the sub itself is very light and punchy as is the case for all of the cars speakers, its not easy to improve on this without going over the 1000w you can get from the DC converter or battery

This is a thread for learning and showing others how to install sub's in this vehicle. Maybe you haven't seen the general consensus, but it veers towards the opinion of the stock sub being nearly unnoticeable when in the driver's seat. There are other threads for comprehensive and high-end audio upgrades and that has all been covered in depth.
I did not want a perfectly neutral, studio-esque soundscape. I wanted more bass, now I have more bass. I didn't want potential warning messages about power draw as others have reported in various places, and I didn't want a bulky box. I may consider switching to the RF Punch powered sub in the future, but for now I'm satisfied with my cheap bass upgrade.

 

[TFSMotorsport]

Yea but thats the thing, you do not have more bass and with the seats down the stock subwoofer is very noticeble.

 

[fossilcreek]

Yea but thats the thing, you do not have more bass and with the seats down the stock subwoofer is very noticeble.

Your comments have been very helpful, I am half deaf after being in the military for years so hey maybe I am imagining all the extra bass I suddenly started hearing after my install was completed .
I'd rather not have to drive with my rear seats down, but again, another useful suggestion, thank you.

 

[Candleflame]

Well, the subwoofer is mounted in the sub-trunk, not underneath any seats.

I am aware of the limitations and tuning of the stock system.

It is not a lower RMS, the OEM amplifier is quite weak.

Thanks for your feedback! I'll keep it in mind if/when I decide to run a subwoofer under the seats.

its an underseat subwoofer, i didnt say you installed it underseat. how many RMS is it? i cant imagine this being more than 200.