Hello. I have an electrical problem with my 2014 RWD Model S 85. My door handles aren't working as of two days ago, and the car doesn't respond to my key fobs. I was locked out of the car. I got in using the Tesla app to vent the windows, and then I was able to hook the door handle to open the door. I can use the Tesla app to flash the headlights, enable dog mode (screen shows the message and the dog but no AC turns on), and I can open open the charge port. When I open the front door, the red light light on the back side of front door turns on. The dome lights turn on and off. Nothing else has power. The horn doesn't work, the screen is black and unresponsive to touch. The only exception is dog mode shows on screen using the app. Opening and closing or putting my foot on the brake doesn't turn the screen on. Fans don't work. I can charge the car with the wall connector (luckily my son parked it in my garage the night before it quit working). However, it only goes up by one percent and then it quits charging. I have to either stop and start charging with the app (sometimes works), or I have to go to the car to unplug and re-plug it in. Then, it will charge one percent and stop charging. I did this charging method a few times to get the charge up from 15% to 33% to have a little extra because the Tesla mobile tech isn't available to come over until July 17th. Could I have a blown fuse(s) or a short somewhere? Could this be 12V battery issue? I have my doubts about it being a near-dead 12V battery because it has power to turn on the headlights etc. I also opened the frunk from the passenger side pull handle and popped open the fuse boxes. I didn't see any burnt fuses but I also don't know what they look like when they are blown. I'm assuming a blacked burn spot would be on the fuse. I appreciate any suggestions and thanks in advanced!
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Model S 2014 no power
- Thread starter BigBison
- Start date
Solution
I strongly recommend you replace the 12V as that is the simplest thing to do first. And also try placing the keyfob over by the passenger wiper area, as soon in the picture below.
Maybe check all the grounds, such as like in this image...Reach this by removing the frunk tube.
Lastly, keep us posted when you figure this one out. I am also sure the mobile servers tech will figure it out.
Maybe check all the grounds, such as like in this image...Reach this by removing the frunk tube.
Lastly, keep us posted when you figure this one out. I am also sure the mobile servers tech will figure it out.
While not identical, I'm having a similar issue here.
teslamotorsclub.com
I get the feeling my 12v isn't dying (haven't had a chance to meter it yet), but it does seem like the positive line to the 12v had a poor connection potentially.
While it's been working so far for the last 30 hours, I've kept the window open enough to do my "trick" if it doesn't start normally.
It seems that MY car is "powering off" vs "car off" and then not powering on when it should be sensing the key or app connection. While I didn't try every single button on the app, mine didn't seem to respond to anything at all, so possibly a different issue.
Point being that I was able to use the pax frunk manual handle to open that, remove the center cover over the fuse boxes and 12v, then just "fiddle" with fuses and the 12v lines. While I haven't been able to nail down a pattern, I have so far had luck, whether it be 10 minutes or 5 seconds, by just pushing on the fuses and wiggling the 12v positive line until I hear the car "click". Once it clicks, it's like a full power cycle, so up to a minute or two later the screen will light up and be ready to go. This can also be felt in brake pedal that feels "normal" once the click happens vs stiff when it's "powered off" instead of "car off".
2014 Model S "Powering off" when walked away from, doesn't recognize key fob or app
Hello, Without diving into every detail, it seems my recently acquired Model S is going "full shut down" at random times. Locked out, doesn't sense key fob or app etc. So far my only "fix" has been to keep a window cracked to "break in", pop the hood manually and literally just tap/flick the...
teslamotorsclub.com
I get the feeling my 12v isn't dying (haven't had a chance to meter it yet), but it does seem like the positive line to the 12v had a poor connection potentially.
While it's been working so far for the last 30 hours, I've kept the window open enough to do my "trick" if it doesn't start normally.
It seems that MY car is "powering off" vs "car off" and then not powering on when it should be sensing the key or app connection. While I didn't try every single button on the app, mine didn't seem to respond to anything at all, so possibly a different issue.
Point being that I was able to use the pax frunk manual handle to open that, remove the center cover over the fuse boxes and 12v, then just "fiddle" with fuses and the 12v lines. While I haven't been able to nail down a pattern, I have so far had luck, whether it be 10 minutes or 5 seconds, by just pushing on the fuses and wiggling the 12v positive line until I hear the car "click". Once it clicks, it's like a full power cycle, so up to a minute or two later the screen will light up and be ready to go. This can also be felt in brake pedal that feels "normal" once the click happens vs stiff when it's "powered off" instead of "car off".
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xAgyex
Member
I strongly recommend you replace the 12V as that is the simplest thing to do first. And also try placing the keyfob over by the passenger wiper area, as soon in the picture below.
Maybe check all the grounds, such as like in this image...Reach this by removing the frunk tube.
Lastly, keep us posted when you figure this one out. I am also sure the mobile servers tech will figure it out.
Maybe check all the grounds, such as like in this image...Reach this by removing the frunk tube.
Lastly, keep us posted when you figure this one out. I am also sure the mobile servers tech will figure it out.
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Solution
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
You don't mention the age of the 12v so it probably needs to be replaced. You can check the voltage at the posts behind the nosecone when the computer has been asleep. Tesla will sell you a battery, any mobile mechanic can install it.
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@xAgyex, @NewbyMaybe Thank you both!! The 12v was indeed this issue. I disconnected the 12v, waited a few minutes, reconnected the 12v, and everything in the car is back to normal functionality with no alerts or errors. The key fobs work now, too. I followed the steps in this video (Electrified Garage: 2012 to 2014 MS RWD 12v Replacement) to disconnect the 12v which describes disconnecting the high voltage at the fireman's loop and then the ground wire at the negative terminal. The current 12v was installed May of 2019. So, I will also go ahead and replace the 12v.
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