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Model S Aftermarket Wheel Fitment/Offset Discussion

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I’ve got Vossen HF3. +30 and +38 on rear. On lowering links as well. After this photo I also added 15 mm wheel spacers. So, yes it rubs now and then. Only thing I would have changed is not lower the car, then it wouldn’t rub. Should have just played with the adaptive suspension.
 

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I’ve got Vossen HF3. +30 and +38 on rear. On lowering links as well. After this photo I also added 15 mm wheel spacers. So, yes it rubs now and then. Only thing I would have changed is not lower the car, then it wouldn’t rub. Should have just played with the adaptive suspension.


Can you give us more info like wheel diameter and tires used. Also did you add 15mm spacers all the way around?

Thanks
 
Just my $.50:
  • While lowering links sound like the bee's knees, lowering beyond factory recommended height settings on an air suspension equipped vehicle is less than ideal. Ride quality will be diminished due to significantly reduced travel (1" is a lot) and you will be accelerating wear/tear on an expensive component. Especially so on the 2021+ Model S, you'll be increasing negative rear camber which is only going to have you literally burning rubber like it's going out of fashion. I've lowered many cars in the past on KW V3s, Bilstein PSS10s etc as I love the look AND ride quality enhancement. You're only getting one of these things lowering on an air suspension setup via aftermarket doodads.
  • The act of adding wheel spacers when you're spending hard earned cash on aftermarket wheels to replace OEM wheels is counter-intuitive. If you do it the right way, you'll get hub-centric wheels that can reuse OEM lug nuts, accept OEM TPMS, sit flush to fenders and are lighter/stiffer/stronger than factory wheels. I'm personally replicating the diameter and widths of the 21" Arachnids, but going negative 10mm all around to ensure track width ratio remain the same as stock while the OEM PS4S tires sit a bit tighter to the fenders.
  • Make sure you check the runout values of your new shiny wheels. 99% of so called forged aftermarket wheels come from Taiwan/China these days. It's not a shock to find some of them with less than ideal quality checks. Don't assume they're all round and true because new. Buy from a reputable brand. They tend to have less problems because of superior quality control, materials and engineering.
If your wheel shop isn't providing you this guidance, then you really should reconsider who you're seeking counsel from. Good luck!
 
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Just my $.50:
  • While lowering links sound like the bee's knees, lowering beyond factory recommended height settings on an air suspension equipped vehicle is less than ideal. Ride quality will be diminished due to significantly reduced travel (1" is a lot) and you will be accelerating wear/tear on an expensive component. Especially so on the 2021+ Model S, you'll be increasing negative rear camber which is only going to have you literally burning rubber like it's going out of fashion. I've lowered many cars in the past on KW V3s, Bilstein PSS10s etc as I love the look AND ride quality enhancement. You're only getting one of these things lowering on an air suspension setup via aftermarket doodads.
  • The act of adding wheel spacers when you're spending hard earned cash on aftermarket wheels to replace OEM wheels is counter-intuitive. If you do it the right way, you'll get hub-centric wheels that can reuse OEM lug nuts, accept OEM TPMS, sit flush to fenders and are lighter/stiffer/stronger than factory wheels. I'm personally replicating the diameter and widths of the 21" Arachnids, but going negative 10mm all around to ensure track width ratio remain the same as stock while the OEM PS4S tires sit a bit tighter to the fenders.
  • Make sure you check the runout values of your new shiny wheels. 99% of so called forged aftermarket wheels come from Taiwan/China these days. It's not a shock to find some of them with less than ideal quality checks. Don't assume they're all round and true because new. Buy from a reputable brand. They tend to have less problems because of superior quality control, materials and engineering.
If your wheel shop isn't providing you this guidance, then you really should reconsider who you're seeking counsel from. Good luck!
No lies were told here!


Danny
 
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Just my $.50:
  • While lowering links sound like the bee's knees, lowering beyond factory recommended height settings on an air suspension equipped vehicle is less than ideal. Ride quality will be diminished due to significantly reduced travel (1" is a lot) and you will be accelerating wear/tear on an expensive component. Especially so on the 2021+ Model S, you'll be increasing negative rear camber which is only going to have you literally burning rubber like it's going out of fashion. I've lowered many cars in the past on KW V3s, Bilstein PSS10s etc as I love the look AND ride quality enhancement. You're only getting one of these things lowering on an air suspension setup via aftermarket doodads.
  • The act of adding wheel spacers when you're spending hard earned cash on aftermarket wheels to replace OEM wheels is counter-intuitive. If you do it the right way, you'll get hub-centric wheels that can reuse OEM lug nuts, accept OEM TPMS, sit flush to fenders and are lighter/stiffer/stronger than factory wheels. I'm personally replicating the diameter and widths of the 21" Arachnids, but going negative 10mm all around to ensure track width ratio remain the same as stock while the OEM PS4S tires sit a bit tighter to the fenders.
  • Make sure you check the runout values of your new shiny wheels. 99% of so called forged aftermarket wheels come from Taiwan/China these days. It's not a shock to find some of them with less than ideal quality checks. Don't assume they're all round and true because new. Buy from a reputable brand. They tend to have less problems because of superior quality control, materials and engineering.
If your wheel shop isn't providing you this guidance, then you really should reconsider who you're seeking counsel from. Good luck!
Just my $.50:
  • While lowering links sound like the bee's knees, lowering beyond factory recommended height settings on an air suspension equipped vehicle is less than ideal. Ride quality will be diminished due to significantly reduced travel (1" is a lot) and you will be accelerating wear/tear on an expensive component. Especially so on the 2021+ Model S, you'll be increasing negative rear camber which is only going to have you literally burning rubber like it's going out of fashion. I've lowered many cars in the past on KW V3s, Bilstein PSS10s etc as I love the look AND ride quality enhancement. You're only getting one of these things lowering on an air suspension setup via aftermarket doodads.
  • The act of adding wheel spacers when you're spending hard earned cash on aftermarket wheels to replace OEM wheels is counter-intuitive. If you do it the right way, you'll get hub-centric wheels that can reuse OEM lug nuts, accept OEM TPMS, sit flush to fenders and are lighter/stiffer/stronger than factory wheels. I'm personally replicating the diameter and widths of the 21" Arachnids, but going negative 10mm all around to ensure track width ratio remain the same as stock while the OEM PS4S tires sit a bit tighter to the fenders.
  • Make sure you check the runout values of your new shiny wheels. 99% of so called forged aftermarket wheels come from Taiwan/China these days. It's not a shock to find some of them with less than ideal quality checks. Don't assume they're all round and true because new. Buy from a reputable brand. They tend to have less problems because of superior quality control, materials and engineering.
If your wheel shop isn't providing you this guidance, then you really should reconsider who you're seeking counsel from. Good luck!

On top of that, lowering your Tesla throws off the configuration of your cameras and renders them completely useless unless recalibrated. That’s why I’m getting my lowering brackets removed next week.
 
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Why some of you are attempting to fit car to wheel rather than wheel to car, no disrespect, counters any form of logic other than you have no idea what you’re doing.

It’s like buying furniture first then trying to find a house to put it in.

Spec the wheels to car either spec’ed off the shelf by a vendor who knows what they’re doing or go custom like HRE.
 
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Why some of you are attempting to fit car to wheel rather than wheel to car, no disrespect, counters any form of logic other than you have no idea what you’re doing.

It’s like buying furniture first then trying to find a house to put it in.

Spec the wheels to car either spec’ed off the shelf by a vendor who knows what they’re doing or go custom like HRE.

Cost. Not everyone wants to spend thousands on wheels. Maybe they can get a good deal on rims in that particular size.
 
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Could i get a fitment for these specs on a '23 S plaid?

Wheels :20x11 ET+35 Front & Rear
Tires:305/30/20 Square
About the biggest square you can go is 295 due to front clearance. I also won't run them on 11" rims either unless you are super cautious about curbing them. There is already very little protection of the tire for the rim.