davidc18
Active Member
+1 - for this. Right now we have to leave the drivers door open to keep the music on.
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Model S Software/Firmware wishlist
- Thread starter dsm363
- Start date
Are you kidding!? After spending all this money on a hot car in a desperate attempt to deny my own aging? No way am I admitting that I need bifocals! When I drive the millennium falcon I am transformed into a god...mere mortals in their primitive gas driven ox carts are pawns in my personal driving game...does a god wear bifocals? No, we do not!
Seriously though, there is no reason we shouldn't be able to increase font sizes. This is not a complicated thing...and it would turn something that annoys me about the car every day into something I love about it.
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
Yes, seriously.. if you need reading glasses they would help to see the dashboard clearly also, no font adjustments needed. I have regular sunglasses and put on these stick-on plastic bifocal lenses and they are fantastic for driving. And they're only $15.
Amazon.com: OPTX 20/20 Stick-On Bifocals, 2.00: Health Personal Care
For nighttime driving, I had Costco make me 1.5x bifocals on the bottom, and clear glass on the top, and with either my sunglasses or night glasses, I can see everything, all the time, in perfect clarity. No messing with on-off-on-off reading glasses or doubling up reading glasses with sunglasses just so I can see the touchscreen or dashboard.
beeeerock
Active Member
Have to agree with you... I don't need to wear reading glasses in the car - *yet* - but I'll be demanding Braille gauges before I do! It's a slow, insidious progression... first it's reading glasses in the car, then, before you know it, you'll be wearing the plastic wrap-around sunglasses with a cord you get in a three-pack from Costco!
Resist!! :tongue:
bollar
Disgruntled Member
Dude! A god doesn't have reading glasses perched on his head either! :tongue:
I agree with adjustable fonts, but let me just say that I have bifocal sunglasses that I always wear in the car.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
beeeerock
Active Member
Or die trying!Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated.
Soon after we got married, my wife and I dug a shallow rectangular hole just downslope from a quiet back road out in the woods. Our prenuptial agreement says that should one or the other partner wear wrap-around plastic sunglasses, black socks and sandals or stop on a highway on-ramp, the other must bludgeon said partner from behind and roll the body into the aforementioned hole. Required depth of cover is seasonally-dependent and tied to frost depth.
There are also some clauses pertaining to knee-high nylon stockings with a dress and a minimum allowable distance between the rib cage and belt. This has ensured we remain happy and together. Or at least 'together', as there is another clause requiring the party who first elects to leave the relationship to take the kids/dog with him/her...
S100D
Member
A few recommendations are:
- The sound system should change the volume depending on speed (noise in the car)
- Currently the Beta navigation software wants to send you back to the SC that you just left. Allow the SC buttons to be clicked so that a SC can be removed. This would allow the MS to go to the next SC instead of constantly being told to go back to the one you just left.
- Add the capability to automatically move the seat and steering wheel when you get in and out of the car. It should adjust to make your entry and exit easier.
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- The sound system should change the volume depending on speed (noise in the car)
- Currently the Beta navigation software wants to send you back to the SC that you just left. Allow the SC buttons to be clicked so that a SC can be removed. This would allow the MS to go to the next SC instead of constantly being told to go back to the one you just left.
- Add the capability to automatically move the seat and steering wheel when you get in and out of the car. It should adjust to make your entry and exit easier.
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I specifically asked about this during our test drive and was told it was easy to do via some sort of profile thing.
1. Add a true "low power" mode that stops the smart fob beacon, disconnects the communication systems and can only be woken up by unlocking the car with the fob button. Useful for vacations, or other times when you know the car is going to sit.
2. Add scheduling to above so you can enable/disable this mode in advance by date.
3. Add "Shore power" mode where the DC-DC remains constantly powered by the OBC (On-board charger), and the main pack contactors can remain open if no charging is called for. Could be used in lieu of the above features if power is available constantly.
Both of these features could drastically extend the life of the 12v battery. Of course, fixing the crazy "vampire" drain would make these features not as needed.
2. Add scheduling to above so you can enable/disable this mode in advance by date.
3. Add "Shore power" mode where the DC-DC remains constantly powered by the OBC (On-board charger), and the main pack contactors can remain open if no charging is called for. Could be used in lieu of the above features if power is available constantly.
Both of these features could drastically extend the life of the 12v battery. Of course, fixing the crazy "vampire" drain would make these features not as needed.
My understanding is that the car goes into somewhat of a hibernate mode after 24 hours. And my experience supports that. The door handles don't auto-present after the car sits over 24 hours. It doesn't require unlocking via the fob button but you do need to push on the handles with the fob present.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
What the person was referring to during your test drive was the creation of an "Exit" driver profile. You simply create a new driver profile named "Exit" (or anything else you like) and move the seat all the way back and the steering wheel all the way up for that profile. Then, before you exit the car, you select the "Exit" profile, and everything will adjust. Whichever driver then gets in the driver's seat next would simply select their own driver profile.
Yes, I agree that it does reduce it's consumption, but it's still massive, like several orders of magnitude, over what other cars consume when idle. This is why the 12v battery doesn't even seem to last 2 years before it needs replacement, and it's not easy or cheap. After our warranties expire, are you going to want to replace this $150 battery every 18 months also while paying for the extra electricity the car is wasting every day?
beeeerock
Active Member
Relating to many of the threads discussing whether the upgraded sound system is worth the investment, I'd really like to see more ability to configure the sound settings.
The more I listen to the system and experiment with different music genres, the more I have come to believe that the upgraded sound system CAN sound really good. Or maybe more accurately, COULD sound really good. The pieces are all there, but our inability to make the fine adjustments is an issue.
Bass, Mid, Treble sliders. Great. What about 'Sub'? The cheap Sony player I have in my old Alfa allows this!
As well, we should be able to digitally adjust the cutoff for the sub output. Perhaps there is an actual low-pass filter doing it, which would mean adjustment isn't possible, but I suspect it's actually done in the digital domain meaning 'completely possible'. If someone knows for sure, I'd be interested to hear...
The sub is only apparent at the bottom of the audible range. Meaning, sightly higher sounds that *could* be reproduced with the sub aren't... and the other speakers just don't manage it. Hip-hop isn't my thing, but it appears that the sub only responds in a meaningful way to that kind of music. Much like the thicker sound you get playing an octave up on a bigger bass string, the sub should be allowed to add that presence.
Ever paid attention to the pre-concert recorded music that is played through the big sound system before a show? Songs you are familiar with have that effortless sounding bass that comes from the subs. Not too loud, not unbalanced, just smoother and effortless. Same recording, but so much better than what you hear at home!
Back when I was playing bass very badly in a very ad-hoc garage band, we sometimes rented practice space at a music shop that had a full stage and sound system set up in a small dance hall. My amp is a big beast and sounds pretty good. But plugging into the big system, with subs under the stage, resulted in a completely different sound and ambiance without really being any louder or unbalanced. I'm convinced the Tesla system could do this if it was allowed. I'd love to see them add more adjustability to optimize what it can very likely do! You shouldn't need a drop-B string to trigger the sub... the E string and up should do it too and add some real presence.
The more I listen to the system and experiment with different music genres, the more I have come to believe that the upgraded sound system CAN sound really good. Or maybe more accurately, COULD sound really good. The pieces are all there, but our inability to make the fine adjustments is an issue.
Bass, Mid, Treble sliders. Great. What about 'Sub'? The cheap Sony player I have in my old Alfa allows this!
As well, we should be able to digitally adjust the cutoff for the sub output. Perhaps there is an actual low-pass filter doing it, which would mean adjustment isn't possible, but I suspect it's actually done in the digital domain meaning 'completely possible'. If someone knows for sure, I'd be interested to hear...
The sub is only apparent at the bottom of the audible range. Meaning, sightly higher sounds that *could* be reproduced with the sub aren't... and the other speakers just don't manage it. Hip-hop isn't my thing, but it appears that the sub only responds in a meaningful way to that kind of music. Much like the thicker sound you get playing an octave up on a bigger bass string, the sub should be allowed to add that presence.
Ever paid attention to the pre-concert recorded music that is played through the big sound system before a show? Songs you are familiar with have that effortless sounding bass that comes from the subs. Not too loud, not unbalanced, just smoother and effortless. Same recording, but so much better than what you hear at home!
Back when I was playing bass very badly in a very ad-hoc garage band, we sometimes rented practice space at a music shop that had a full stage and sound system set up in a small dance hall. My amp is a big beast and sounds pretty good. But plugging into the big system, with subs under the stage, resulted in a completely different sound and ambiance without really being any louder or unbalanced. I'm convinced the Tesla system could do this if it was allowed. I'd love to see them add more adjustability to optimize what it can very likely do! You shouldn't need a drop-B string to trigger the sub... the E string and up should do it too and add some real presence.
The Audio DSP is a SHARC ADSP-21489, definitely a capable beast: http://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ADSP-21483_21486_21487_21488_21489.pdf
It's just a matter of the willingness and effort to program those features in.
It's just a matter of the willingness and effort to program those features in.
beeeerock
Active Member
I've seen discussions relating to the installation of an aftermarket sub in the Model S. I gathered that the source was taken from a regular speaker - I could be wrong. Assuming I'm right, that would mean a more full signal is available to the aftermarket amp/sub and the installer can mess with the low pass to suit. The result would likely be what I'm wanting from the factory system and would explain why the aftermarket installation is something people will spend for - it does what they want.
The technical data you linked is enough to make my Civil Engineer's brain explode...
But I would infer that the DSP in use would allow the programmer to decide what frequency range is sent to the sub amp. And that would imply that there is NOT an old school physical low pass filter employed?In other words, what I'd like to have is possible in your opinion, via programming changes and NOT physical changes to the coil/capacitor circuitry?
Correct, it's all done digitally now. But it would take Tesla to do such a thing unless someone decides to re-write the center display code from scratch.
There are balanced line outputs on the back of the center display from a light green Molex connector. This connector is not used on the standard sound, but on premium it runs to a separate amp module. The sub line out is on pins 5 & 15 (+ / -) with the shield being on pin 6. You can order the connector housing here: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/34729-0203/?qs=1%2FkFHMS5B%2FiH1nOHqH4nlg%3D%3D and here are the contacts: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=SMSg0crzni8Ajb7f4MymWA%3d%3d
There are balanced line outputs on the back of the center display from a light green Molex connector. This connector is not used on the standard sound, but on premium it runs to a separate amp module. The sub line out is on pins 5 & 15 (+ / -) with the shield being on pin 6. You can order the connector housing here: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/34729-0203/?qs=1%2FkFHMS5B%2FiH1nOHqH4nlg%3D%3D and here are the contacts: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=SMSg0crzni8Ajb7f4MymWA%3d%3d
beeeerock
Active Member
Interesting! I have the premium sound, so if Tesla deemed us worthy of some added functionality in a future firmware release, I'd be able to take advantage of it... and wouldn't need to swap out any hardware. That's good to know.
Just have to get Tesla to take interest in the idea. Given the dollars I spent for the 'upgrade', it would seem reasonable that I have the ability to tailor the sound to suit me. When I demo'd it, the source the sales guy played was more towards the hip-hop end the spectrum and the sub performance was definitely noticeable. With the music I listen to (typically classic rock and newer stuff that isn't too far off), the sub doesn't get used much at all... in fact, I stuck my head back there one day to see if it was working. My ears couldn't confirm it so I had to feel around for the cone to see if there was any vibration there at all... barely was. The cutoff shouldn't be so low that I'd have to do that!
Overall, I think the hardware installed is decent enough and up to the task - the firmware needs to be tweaked to take better advantage of it.
