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Martian has 20" wheels that are WAY lighter. Stronger too. (Forged.) 8.5" and 9.5". About 20 pounds a wheel; 18 pounds per wheel lighter than the Ubertines. The 8.5" are 35mm offset, but you can order any offset you want if you call them. My special order cost no more, other than time. Tesla Model Y 20Are there lighter 21" wheels one could use?
Martian has 20" wheels that are WAY lighter. Stronger too. (Forged.) 8.5" and 9.5". About 20 pounds a wheel; 18 pounds per wheel lighter than the Ubertines. The 8.5" are 35mm offset, but you can order any offset you want if you call them. My special order cost no more, other than time. Tesla Model Y 20
Yep. Specifically designed for the 3 or the Y. Mine are custom so I won't see them till early June. Not at all bad for custom wheels though.That seems like a great deal! Will they fit on a Y?
Yep. Specifically designed for the 3 or the Y. Mine are custom so I won't see them till early June. Not at all bad for custom wheels though.
I wanted to stay with stock geometry. I ordered 19" x 8.5" rims with the stock 45mm offset. (Standard offering with the 8.5" rims is 35mm offset.) This will result in the outer rim face being inboard from stock .5". (1" narrower wheel.) I wanted the narrower wheel so the rim would be protected a bit by the tire from curb rash. I wanted the stock offset to keep the stock geometry and to keep the tire tread in the stock position. This will allow me to safely use whatever tire chain options end up being offered by Tesla. Most people prefer to keep the outer rim face in the stock position with narrower rims (asthetics); I prefer to keep the tire tread in the stock position. (Stock geometry.) Factory wheels are 9.5" with a 45mm offset. (Non PUP.)So why did you custom order? What did you change from the standard offering?
It tells you right on the Tesla the site that the MYP 3.5s 0-60 time is after the subtraction of a rollout...
Yup- Tesla continuing its dishonest tradition of making the P to non-P gap look bigger than it is by using rollout for the P but not for the non-P version of the car.
I'm aware of any other car maker who does this. Some use rollout, some don't, but AFAIK all of them use the same measurement across their entire line of cars once they pick one measurement or the other.
Yup- Tesla continuing its dishonest tradition of making the P to non-P gap look bigger than it is by using rollout for the P but not for the non-P version of the car.
I'm aware of any other car maker who does this. Some use rollout, some don't, but AFAIK all of them use the same measurement across their entire line of cars once they pick one measurement or the other.
If you can swing the extra money, the upgrades you get buying a P are a steal. The point is… people act like the car is retarded faster and it’s not… the facts are skewed to make it appear that way.That half a second not worth the price?
That half a second not worth the price?
The point is… people act like the car is retarded faster and it’s not… the facts are skewed to make it appear that way.
If you can swing the extra money, the upgrades you get buying a P are a steal. The point is… people act like the car is retarded faster and it’s not… the facts are skewed to make it appear that way.
In my mind calling it 0 to 60 is cheating, they should call it 2 to 60.I don't think of adding the 1 foot roll out as "cheating". As far as I know, every car maker uses it for their performance cars. Virtually every car magazine uses it. If you don't use it, you're making your cars look worse compared to your competition. As long as everyone is using it, it's a fair way enough way to compare cars. (Although my feeling is that it tends to favor ICE cars slightly.)
4.8 (4.6 w rollout) for non-boosted, 4.2 (4.0 w rollout) for boost is common.You ought be getting those numbers without boost on a LR AWD.
Boost should be around 3.5 with 1 foot rollout, 3.7ish without it.