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MX Plaid Widebody build

meso

Member
Jul 14, 2020
60
107
USA
Finished the widebody build on the wife's plaid, figured I'd share some build pics here. I used CMST's widebody kit, but unfortunately it's not made for the refreshed X's (Tesla changed up the front bumper, front flares, and rear undertray) so documenting what had to be done for fitment. Might help out someone else looking to do it. Cheers

Starting with the rear bumper. The CMST diffuser fit, but Tesla made the rear undertray longer so it had to be trimmed.
9OyCHNR.jpg


Trim line
JdVsmyg.jpg


Not perfect, but as close as you're gonna get
BkZiPX5.jpg


WHEELS. Thanks to Jamie @signaturewheels!
Specs;
SV302S
GLOSS BLACK LIP
GLOSS BLACK FACE
BLACK HARDWARE
22X10-15 FRONT 22X11-15 REAR

Tires are P-Zero 275/35/22 Front and 295/35/22 Rear
Lugs are Race Engineering Titanium
XzxfwQk.jpg




Testing all fender flares. I wasn't happy with the fitment to the body, so a layer of body filler on the back then pop off when dry and sand. Perfect fitment
dnyq0Xm.jpg


PidHgMc.jpg


The front flares were 1.75" too short. So they were cut, and fiberglassed to extend
khzXyOK.jpg

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Front lip. Overall it fit OK, but the didnt sit flush with the edges of the bumper. Same treatment for the flares with filler on the back. Don't mind the tape haha
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Installed
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Now time for paint! I primed/sanded the side lower panels. The black didn't match with the theme.
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The fun begins
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Installing flares, testing wheel clearance. The car is lowered on adjustable end links
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Sorry, YOKE had to go. RPM Tesla Carbon "D" wheel
CdBC3SC.jpg


All done! The car was wrapped in XPEL PPF(clear) as well as all the flares so it has total protection.
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meso

Member
Jul 14, 2020
60
107
USA
Looks great. But damn, fiberglass fenders. You are much braver than I am! Had a car drop something on the freeway and it cracked my OEM plastic fender :(
Thanks. Not too worried, the PPF is a pretty good barrier. And worst case it cracks..there's always sanding and repainting 🤣
Looks great all except that wheel which is hideous. Go back. Love everything else, tho, dawg.
👍 The Teslas have such large wheel wells, I like the look of the spokes to go all the way to the edge(VS a regular wheel with a step lip). What wheel style would you have chosen?
 
thanks! No I do not. Just like tinkering and modding things:)
I don’t know what they person talking crap about the wheels is all about but great job. Where the Arches/fender flares the same as the old X? Where do you live? You did an amazing job. Did you ever think about molding the flares into the body? Is that something you are capable of doing?
 
That came out great!! I'm going out on a limb here (based on being such a small market demand for these) that all these widebody kits are the same from all seller, eBay to Alibaba to CMST to TSportline...they just charge different prices. Assuming you're not anywhere near the $38k price difference TSP asks and go out on another limb and say that this thread shows that all of these kits will require some finessing for fitment...difference is you did it yourself with some help and saved $33k.

I'm happy to see a DIY'er vs all the arm chair mechanics who's goto is "jUst Take It tO thE DealerShIP" for anything and everything. I'll be doing the same to mine soon as well...thanks for the inspiration :)

What are the specs on the wheels? I've got some staggered 22's left over from my X5M, both vehicles have the same 5x120 bolt pattern and it'll be easy to get some hubcentric rings. My wheels are 22x10.5 ET31 wrapped in 295/30/22 and 22x12 ET35 wrapped in 335/25/22...my front are as wide as your rears so I'm concerned about their fitment even with overfenders.
 

meso

Member
Jul 14, 2020
60
107
USA
I don’t know what they person talking crap about the wheels is all about but great job. Where the Arches/fender flares the same as the old X? Where do you live? You did an amazing job. Did you ever think about molding the flares into the body? Is that something you are capable of doing?
Front's needed modification(extended 1"). Rears fit pretty well. I did not want to mold the flares to the body for a few reasons... anytime you bond a composite(fiberglass) to an alloy (metal body) there is always a chance of a crack/failure point there. Yes there are ways to fuse them together for better durability, but it's very time consuming. But the main reason I did not is because the way the rear wheel wells/arches are on the X, the tire does not "tuck" up inside. On my last widebody X build occasionally on a big bump the rear tire would come up and contact the flare..popping it off. This gives me some wiggle room in case it happens, and it's an easy fix. If they were molded...game over. Thanks for the kinds words. I'm located in NorCal, about 30min north of Sacramento:)
That came out great!! I'm going out on a limb here (based on being such a small market demand for these) that all these widebody kits are the same from all seller, eBay to Alibaba to CMST to TSportline...they just charge different prices. Assuming you're not anywhere near the $38k price difference TSP asks and go out on another limb and say that this thread shows that all of these kits will require some finessing for fitment...difference is you did it yourself with some help and saved $33k.

I'm happy to see a DIY'er vs all the arm chair mechanics who's goto is "jUst Take It tO thE DealerShIP" for anything and everything. I'll be doing the same to mine soon as well...thanks for the inspiration :)

What are the specs on the wheels? I've got some staggered 22's left over from my X5M, both vehicles have the same 5x120 bolt pattern and it'll be easy to get some hubcentric rings. My wheels are 22x10.5 ET31 wrapped in 295/30/22 and 22x12 ET35 wrapped in 335/25/22...my front are as wide as your rears so I'm concerned about their fitment even with overfenders.
Thanks! Can't wait to see yours. As for the body kit... IMO they all come out of the same factory/molds. So just find the best price you can and remember they all need fitment/work. This kit was about $4k Delivered IIRC. 1K for paint, and $300 to PPF everything. I'm a very "hands-on" DIY'er and like doing little mod projects like this.
Wheels sizes are above but they are 22X10 -15 FRONT and 22X11 -15 REAR respectively. I punched in your wheel specs to compare them to my setup. Although your rim width is greater, the positive offset screws up the fitment. Here is the front for example (ORANGE mine, GREEN yours)
1658250705881.png


The biggest issue you are going to run into is the inner clearance to the suspension. Right now mine is less than a finger width from hitting the rim, so yours will definitely hit. You can run spacers to alleviate this, but honestly I like to run the correct offset. Also, with a negative offset you can get a MUCH bigger concave on the spokes..which translates to a more aggressive look.
Here's a comparrison of the rears;
1658250930925.png


I've got around 1,000 miles on the setup so far and couldn't be happier. I keep the suspension in sport(stiff) mode and LOW on the suspension height. Just got back from a "spirited" drive around Lake Tahoe and the car performed flawlessly. Hope this helps!
 

meso

Member
Jul 14, 2020
60
107
USA
Do the flares blend with the rest of the body kit, or could you run them without the front/rear lips and sideskirts?
I think just the flares would look off without the lip/sideskirt extensions. Here's some close up pics to give you an idea

Front view of lip to flare. (keep in mind mine don't line up perfect..but best I could get with using an older style lip)
1658252192136.png


Front flare, rear view. You can see how it meets up to the carbon side skirts
1658252236647.png


Rear flare.. definitely need the side skirts to match up. The little black part on the lower rocker comes in the kit as well to help with the transition.
1658252306083.png
 
Thanks! Can't wait to see yours. As for the body kit... IMO they all come out of the same factory/molds. So just find the best price you can and remember they all need fitment/work. This kit was about $4k Delivered IIRC. 1K for paint, and $300 to PPF everything. I'm a very "hands-on" DIY'er and like doing little mod projects like this.
Wheels sizes are above but they are 22X10 -15 FRONT and 22X11 -15 REAR respectively. I punched in your wheel specs to compare them to my setup. Although your rim width is greater, the positive offset screws up the fitment. Here is the front for example (ORANGE mine, GREEN yours)
View attachment 830222

The biggest issue you are going to run into is the inner clearance to the suspension. Right now mine is less than a finger width from hitting the rim, so yours will definitely hit. You can run spacers to alleviate this, but honestly I like to run the correct offset. Also, with a negative offset you can get a MUCH bigger concave on the spokes..which translates to a more aggressive look.
Here's a comparrison of the rears;
View attachment 830223

I've got around 1,000 miles on the setup so far and couldn't be happier. I keep the suspension in sport(stiff) mode and LOW on the suspension height. Just got back from a "spirited" drive around Lake Tahoe and the car performed flawlessly. Hope this helps!
Yeah, I figured at minimum I'm gonna have to run some spacers to push them out further. www.willtheyfit.com is a very handy website!! I've got very similar looking HRE wheels on my MR2 and that website helped me get the flushest fitment I could find...until I widebody it as well!! In the meantime I'm running some stock boring 20's but I was able to grab a set of used 21" Uberturbines off of a Model Y for only $500 w/ 1K on them, their bolt pattern is 5x114.3 vs the X's 5x120 but I've got some custom made hubcentric adapters in the mail for only $260. Model Y Uberturbine wheels on a Model X

20201010_160540.jpg

tesla-model-x-22-inch-uberturbine-wheels-tsv-satin-gray-black_7588b8ca-3f7e-48cf-aa60-d0d66d40...jpg

My X is black so I was looking into going CF overfenders vs the fiberglass. Do you think some kind of gasket between them (something like what you'd see for fender flares for a truck, widebody Lambos and Porsches, etc) would suffice enough to soak up the gaps between the body and overfenders? I could test fit and trim the overfenders as needed so they'll lay flatter but doing bondo type bodywork isn't an option if I go CF.
Screenshot_20220406-150756_(1).png

FB_IMG_1489121132401.jpg
 
Last edited:

meso

Member
Jul 14, 2020
60
107
USA
Yeah, I figured at minimum I'm gonna have to run some spacers to push them out further. www.willtheyfit.com is a very handy website!! I've got very similar looking HRE wheels on my MR2 and that website helped me get the flushest fitment I could find...until I widebody it as well!! In the meantime I'm running some stock boring 20's but I was able to grab a set of used 21" Uberturbines off of a Model Y for only $500 w/ 1K on them, their bolt pattern is 5x114.3 vs the X's 5x120 but I've got some custom made hubcentric adapters in the mail for only $260. Model Y Uberturbine wheels on a Model X

View attachment 830452
View attachment 830453
My X is black so I was looking into going CF overfenders vs the fiberglass. Do you think some kind of gasket between them (something like what you'd see for fender flares for a truck, widebody Lambos and Porsches, etc) would suffice enough to soak up the gaps between the body and overfenders? I could test fit and trim the overfenders as needed so they'll lay flatter but doing bondo type bodywork isn't an option if I go CF.
View attachment 830455
View attachment 830456
Yes you can use weather stripping as well. Especially if the flares are exposed carbon, and they can't be reworked with any bodywork. I did this method on my last X and it turned out good. IMO it only works on darker color vehicles as it blends in alot better. I didn't want to do this on the white X because the black strip really stands out. Also something to keep in mind is the weather stripping helps alleviate any rubbing between the flare and the body. I PPF'd the whole car (and flares) so this isn't much of an issue. Here's a pic of the black weather stripping applied to the flare to give you an idea.
1658513863315.png
 
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