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MY Performance seems neutered worth upcharge?

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The overall diameter of the 19’s 20’s and 21’s are virtually identical because of the lower profile tires on each progressively larger tire. The drive ratio remains almost identical on each option tire. Seat of the paints isn’t a good indicator of speed, a Draggy is a much better option.

Not to be a spec nazi, but technically the power output at the tire edge will be different between all of the non-PUP wheel/tire options and the PUP tires on the rear motor. The speed calculation is the same because this is done on the front tire(s) and the circumference is the same across all of the stock tire options. However the PUP has 275/35R21 tires in the rear, which is about 2.1% larger in diameter. This is a larger lever force acting on the tarmac when accelerating combined with more unsprung/rotational weight on the rear motor, which inevitably results in marginally less acceleration performance.
 
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I owned a MYP for three months and unfortunately wrecked it (not speed related), and went with the LR with the boost the second time around.

It does have less punch off the line but feels almost Identical at any other speed to me and is plenty fast. I also like the ride quality of the LR as well as the look of the induction wheels over the Uber turbines. I wasn’t a fan so I bought new ones.

I ended up saving the $10K and spending a few more bucks on the tint, brake calipers, and ceramic coating, and I am very happy with the results.

I say save the $, it’s not worth $10K more, unless ss you love the Uberturbines and must have that extra .5 secs off the line.

I was debating between LR and Performance too, but I saw myself getting the induction wheels with the LR (+2k) or something third party ones (+3k) and the acceleration boost (+2K). This already put me about 50% into just getting the performance. So now the question is the extra speed (would be +2k if we can do two boost purchases), nicer-looking brakes (cost +1k), and spoiler with the compromise of a stiffer ride worth the 2-3k difference? I am on the fence.... but if they add track mode for the Performance. I will be VERY happy with my purchase. If they add track mode for boosted LR, I will be VERY salty.
 
Not to be a spec nazi, but technically the power output at the tire edge will be different between all of the non-PUP wheel/tire options and the PUP tires on the rear motor. The speed calculation is the same because this is done on the front tire(s) and the circumference is the same across all of the stock tire options. However the PUP has 275/35R21 tires in the rear, which is about 2.1% larger in diameter. This is a larger lever force acting on the tarmac when accelerating combined with more unsprung/rotational weight on the rear motor, which inevitably results in marginally less acceleration performance.
Hence what I said above "virtually" the same. Good luck telling 2 percent by the seat of pants at different times with different charge levels. But if you want to get down to numbers the difference is actually less than 2 percent, it’s closer to 1.96 percent, 28.58 vs 28.03 inches. Those numbers can vary though if the tires are not oem brand because not all tire manufacturers 275’s and 255’s are exactly the same size. That said the difference in the drive motors torque output at different rpm’s doesn’t guarantee that a lower ratio will provide quicker acceleration at all speeds. An example is the new Taycan with a two speed transmission in the rear, it upshifts well below its motors maximum rpm to take advantage of its motors specific torque curve to provide quicker acceleration, there are more variables than just tire diameter when calculating performance.
 
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I have absolutely no regerts about my PUP.

Now that said - I also knew of the $2k upgrade for the LR but it was my wifey who encouraged me to just get what you want for once - and stop cheating yourself and always adding more (like the acceleration boost).

AND - if Elon adds track mode and or other acceleration goodies, I’m thinking the MYPs will know first!
 
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But if you want to get down to numbers the difference is actually less than 2 percent, it’s closer to 1.96 percent, 28.58 vs 28.03 inches. Those numbers can vary though if the tires are not oem brand because not all tire manufacturers 275’s and 255’s are exactly the same size.

Since neither of us quoted sources or other math, I'm just going to post a screenshot of where 2.1% came from. See the attachment. I'm done with it.

With your moving of the goal posts by adding in motor design and limitations, especially for a car that's significantly different in it's motor design, implementation and control than the Model Y, I don't think it's relevant here. It's certainly informative to those who don't know, but the OP specifically asked about wheels, tires and acceleration performance.

However, i1Tesla's youtube video showed that lessening unsprung/rotational weight and/or reducing the overall tire diameter reduced the 0-60 times on the Model Y (as expected).

OP I would go with the LR+boost purchase along with a lightweight wheel replacement if you really wanted to get the best bang for your buck. I myself bought the PUP and am planning on swapping out the Ubers when my Martian 19" wheels show up at the end of December.
 

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That’s what the kids call getting walked...

It seems like top end may be closer between the two, but that low end performance is significantly different.

LR+Boost looks appreciably slower off the line, but is still able to hang in there to make the difference only 0.5 sec. For sure, Tesla let a bunch of Performance sales get away by not offering it with the 20 inch Inductions. Good news for them is that people ended up buying the LR+Boost, instead.

They really need to squeeze another 0.5 seconds off the 0-to-60 time for the Performance, to better differentiate it from the LR+Boost.

This is similar to comparing the BMW X3M vs the X3 M40i.
 
LR+Boost looks appreciably slower off the line, but is still able to hang in there to make the difference only 0.5 sec. For sure, Tesla let a bunch of Performance sales get away by not offering it with the 20 inch Inductions. Good news for them is that people ended up buying the LR+Boost, instead.

They really need to squeeze another 0.5 seconds off the 0-to-60 time for the Performance, to better differentiate it from the LR+Boost.

This is similar to comparing the BMW X3M vs the X3 M40i.
If they could get the performance down to 3.2, perhaps with a launch mode, it would be perfect. As it stands I feel like most people that test the MYP performance don't even get 3.5 second runs. It seems to be slower than advertised whereas the M3P people regularly get the advertised numbers.