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My Tesla Model S Plaid

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Very enjoyable thread indeed, too bad the hood scoop didn't come to the party.

Im not being sarcastic, the wheels look really good and the offsets seem ok!

Make sure de load rating is above 850kg per wheel.

Your plaid has a very very small 12v battery, did you have any problems with the audio install?
 
Very enjoyable thread indeed, too bad the hood scoop didn't come to the party.

Im not being sarcastic, the wheels look really good and the offsets seem ok!

Make sure de load rating is above 850kg per wheel.

Your plaid has a very very small 12v battery, did you have any problems with the audio install?
Yes someone should make a fiberglass hood with a fake hood scoop.🙃
I got the wheels on ebay
They're listed specifically for the Plaid as a direct replacement.


They don't list a rating.
Maybe I'll call them on Monday.
They are 32 and 35 lb pretty beefy with 10 dual spokes compared to some other wheels.



The vendor californiarimsoutlet has a 100% score on 1747 sales.
I also got 4 slightly used 8.5/32 tires on ebay for these wheels and they're super smooth.
The tires that came with the car have 16,500 miles and are about 4-5/32

Took care of getting the gearbox fluid changed at the Tesla Service Center this week.
They also put in my new tail light to replace the one that had condensation blemishes at no charge.
Haven't done the audio install yet.
Chris at Darylls Car Audio recommended an extra battery.
Something like this.


Found this thread here for a switched positive.

12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh | Tesla Motors Club

Also going to have Chris install the AL Priority Laser Jammer as per this thread


So things are coming along considering I've only had the car for 3 1/2 weeks 😁
 
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Yes someone should make a fiberglass hood with a fake hood scoop.🙃
I got the wheels on ebay
They're listed specifically for the Plaid as a direct replacement.


They don't list a rating.
Maybe I'll call them on Monday.
They are 32 and 35 lb pretty beefy with 10 dual spokes compared to some other wheels.



The vendor californiarimsoutlet has a 100% score on 1747 sales.
I also got 4 slightly used 8.5/32 tires on ebay for these wheels and they're super smooth.
The tires that came with the car have 16,500 miles and are about 4-5/32

Took care of getting the gearbox fluid changed at the Tesla Service Center this week.
They also put in my new tail light to replace the one that had condensation blemishes at no charge.
Haven't done the audio install yet.
Chris at Darylls Car Audio recommended an extra battery.
Something like this.


Found this thread here for a switched positive.

12V Access: Model S 2021 Refresh | Tesla Motors Club

Also going to have Chris install the AL Priority Laser Jammer as per this thread


So things are coming along considering I've only had the car for 3 1/2 weeks 😁

Looks very good…

But

Be real real careful, ebay wheels and used tires won’t do for a Plaid, the weight and the torque these cars put out its a never before seen kind of thing.

Safety first.
 
Looks very good…

But

Be real real careful, ebay wheels and used tires won’t do for a Plaid, the weight and the torque these cars put out its a never before seen kind of thing.

Safety first.
Ya
I'm taking it easy with the new wheels.
I just put them on yesterday.
No WOT blasts yet.
Going to check the wheel nut tightness after a few days.
The tires are the same size Michelin Pilots that came with the car.
they looked pretty good upon inspection.
So far they feel very good they're actually smoother and better than the 16k miles front tires the car came with.
Did you know they have a band of 1" foam almost the width of the tread on the inside?
the Tesla Service guy said it was for noise reduction.



 
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So these wheels are slightly thicker where they bolt onto the hubs.
The back is kinda ok



but the fronts are not to my satisfaction.
For some reason the front studs are shorter than the back ones as it is.



So I ordered a 1/2" longer stud set


and some 20mm bigger front brake discs with better venting that use the OEM pads and bolt right in.


The parts will be in next week and I'll have them put in.

Also the load rating on each rim is 2094 lbs or 950 kg​

 
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So I got my longer ARP racing studs and brakes done.
Can't be too safe
I also made this for the sub level control and the AL Priority Laser Jammer kill switch



Darryls Car Stereo is ordering in an extra battery for the subs and some other parts to step down the voltage from 15.5 volts.
They'll be in next week.
I also ordered in some Carbon Fiber trim pieces and a wind noise reduction kit from RPM Tesla that goes around the windshield and sun roof indents to smooth out the airflow.

 
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So I got my longer ARP racing studs and brakes done.
Can't be too safe
I also made this for the sub level control and the AL Priority Laser Jammer kill switch



Darryls Car Stereo is ordering in an extra battery for the subs and some other parts to step down the voltage from 15.5 volts.
They'll be in next week.
I also ordered in some Carbon Fiber trim pieces and a wind noise reduction kit from RPM Tesla that goes around the windshield and sun roof indents to smooth out the airflow.

Must say not a fan of the Radio Shack mounts and buttons. Back in my Honda civic days sure but in a Plaid……. As long as you like it though.
 
Must say not a fan of the Radio Shack mounts and buttons. Back in my Honda civic days sure but in a Plaid……. As long as you like it though.
Well you're not putting in subs and a Laser Jammer kill switch
This is the sub control that came with the CT Amp.
A sub needs a level control.



It only requires a phone cable vs 2 rca cables otherwise.
I covered the print and the light and mounted it and the rocker switch in a scoshe pod on some band aluminum I had.
It's just 2 way tape and can be easily removed without a trace.
No hole drilling.
I want these controls at my right hand finger tips and these are fine by me.
For me this is the best ergometric place to put them.
I don't want to have to lean forward everytime I want to adjust the sub
which can be different for different tunes or to turn off my laser jammer.
IMO it looks good enough and a car is an appliance even a Plaid
so I don't get hung up on these things or care what others think.
 
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NOT this but a concept like this would look better integrated and professional with all the cable crap down inside the center console. Would be a simple mount to make on a 3D printer or plastic. Just a thought vs the stick on stuff.
IMG_0618.jpeg
 
NOT this but a concept like this would look better integrated and professional with all the cable crap down inside the center console. Would be a simple mount to make on a 3D printer or plastic. Just a thought vs the stick on stuff.
View attachment 978793
Interesting and doable but the cables are nothing in a black interior and your method would interfere some with using the console not to mention probably having to loosen up the console to get the wires out.
Also the sub Level control is plastic welded together and cannot be taken apart.
The scoshe level control can be taken apart but it requires 2 double rca cables.

 
So I got my longer ARP racing studs and brakes done.
Can't be too safe
I also made this for the sub level control and the AL Priority Laser Jammer kill switch



Darryls Car Stereo is ordering in an extra battery for the subs and some other parts to step down the voltage from 15.5 volts.
They'll be in next week.
I also ordered in some Carbon Fiber trim pieces and a wind noise reduction kit from RPM Tesla that goes around the windshield and sun roof indents to smooth out the airflow.

your car, your prerogative but that does not look good. How often do you make adjustments to the sub level? Maybe just put that inside the console? Also, why did you choose to use a rocker switch for the ALP instead of the nice little control pad to JTK?
 
your car, your prerogative but that does not look good. How often do you make adjustments to the sub level? Maybe just put that inside the console? Also, why did you choose to use a rocker switch for the ALP instead of the nice little control pad to JTK?
Looks good enough for me.
If you do yours you can make it how you want it if you have the capabilities.
I adjust my sub level a lot like every song and even during a song.
The control pad I will have placed over the steering column like I had in my Jeeps.
Using it to turn off the Jammer is awkward although I could still do it.

I like having a kill switch right at my finger tips.
The AL can be programmed to turn off in 4 seconds which is the default but I prefer leaving it open and using the rocker switch.
 
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Sorry, No sound is worth That much clutter. Years ago I had cars with subs etc and never had any of that crap to fidget with.
It's a hobby of mine.
I liked the fidgeting especially since I had 5000 watts rms in the Trackhawk.
The Plaid will only have the sub control.
I might consider redoing the controls to the console like you suggested but not at this time.
A 3d printer is not required as it would only need some band aluminum angle that I have.



I have a full metal working shop.



So since you gave me the console idea and other people have said they have enjoyed this thread let's be friends :cool::cool:



:cool:
 
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Always. Not wanting to sway your interest. If you publish you Will get alternative views. With that said, with a shop like that you Really need an OMAX waterjet. I can help you with that and then you would have Unlimited creative abilities! Lol