Need some help figuring out my salvage model S

[zhur0002]

Car shut down again. I now have 4600 miles on it. In the past month or so that I have been driving it I had several problems of it shutting down while I was charging it. It would open up contactors and display Car Needs Service "car may not restart" usually unplugging the 12V battery for 30 min or so brought it back to life. Very rarely I would get an error message while driving Car needs service "car may not restart" It would display maybe for a second or so and than would disappear car would perform normally if I would not turn it off.

So yesterday I got out of the car while it was having it's little fit and it shut off leaving me stranded. Had it towed back to the shop, and disconnected the battery over night, when I came back next day connected the battery all was happy car was drivable. Than while I was doing other stuff around the shop I heard my contactors open. I came to the car it now has 2 messages Car Needs Service "Pull over Safely" and "car may not Restart". The only time I have gotten Pull over Safely message is when pyro fuse was missing, so its definitely something new. If I disconnect the 12V battery for a while and go to connect it will close HV contactors for a second that open them up again and display the 2 errors.

I'm thinking taking the main bat down again and looking at those connections. This car has been the most annoying and frustrating vehicle ever!

 

[wk057]

Sounds like an issue with the high voltage interlock loop (HVIL). There is a loop that runs through all of the high voltage components, including the battery and drive unit, along with some micro-switches on the covers of things like the HV junction box under the rear seat, DC-DC converter, charge port, etc. If anything is wrong with this loop, like a bad connection, the contactors will open and you'll get the car needs service messages.

It is likely that in a collision part of this loop got damaged, maybe one of the micro switches or connectors?

 

[zhur0002]

I think that you are correct I'm thinking it is some micro-switch that is sticking. One time when it shut itself off I gave a car a good shake and it clicked on again, might of been a coincidence. I have examined the pressure switch on the junction box under the seat and the charger cover. Where is the pressure switch on the DC-DC converter? I have the earlier style DC-DC converter located behind pass wheel.

On page 3 of this thread zarwin mentioned that he got his FJB replaced due to pressure switches not setting in correctly. The FJB I believe sits on top of the 12V battery(my part number on the top cover is very close to zarwin's replacement). I could not find any pressure switches on it. I think that my trouble switch is located somewhere by the DC/DC converter or around that area. Like I said my car sat outside for months and the FJB and everything that is the firewall got soaked every-time it rained. Does the AC compressor have micro-switch?

Does anyone have the schematic of the HVIL and all the pressure switches fuses it has going through it?

BTW: Got to see a taken apart tesla battery. I would say that just the aluminum shell weighs about 300lb. It is also sealed very good, there would be no way I could have any moisture get inside the battery from water going in between car and battery from rain.

 

[kennybobby]

Did you solve the pulling-under-power handling issue--what did you find? Any strange tire wear?

 

[wk057]

I think that you are correct I'm thinking it is some micro-switch that is sticking. One time when it shut itself off I gave a car a good shake and it clicked on again, might of been a coincidence. I have examined the pressure switch on the junction box under the seat and the charger cover. Where is the pressure switch on the DC-DC converter? I have the earlier style DC-DC converter located behind pass wheel.

On page 3 of this thread zarwin mentioned that he got his FJB replaced due to pressure switches not setting in correctly. The FJB I believe sits on top of the 12V battery(my part number on the top cover is very close to zarwin's replacement). I could not find any pressure switches on it. I think that my trouble switch is located somewhere by the DC/DC converter or around that area. Like I said my car sat outside for months and the FJB and everything that is the firewall got soaked every-time it rained. Does the AC compressor have micro-switch?

Does anyone have the schematic of the HVIL and all the pressure switches fuses it has going through it?

BTW: Got to see a taken apart tesla battery. I would say that just the aluminum shell weighs about 300lb. It is also sealed very good, there would be no way I could have any moisture get inside the battery from water going in between car and battery from rain.

I'm not 100% sure physically where the micro-switch is on the DC-DC converter side. I know there is a HV junction setup at the DC-DC converter end of the wiring for use with the AC compressor, cabin, and pack heaters however. So I believe it would be on the cover for that.

(Sent PM)

 

[zhur0002]

No strange tire wear. I think that you are correct about bad bushings here is a video that I made of my rear driver side wheel. I'm taking the main battery down on Monday and will address the suspension issue:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTIZ1YIkIeg

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Here is the pressure switch on the DC/DC converter. It is located behind a metal cover that is held by a 10mm bolt. Mine seemed to look good and was sealed water tight. Did not make a difference with my problem.

 

[kennybobby]

When you say it did not make a difference--does that mean you still have the problem both with and without the metal cover installed on the dc/dc?

Looks like a good place to measure the pack voltage.

 

[zhur0002]

I had the switch depressed manually with a skinny screw driver and it did not make my contactors close. Was still displaying car needs service message. It would be a good place if you can figure out how to depress the switch while measuring voltage.

 

[zhur0002]

Took the main battery down today. Had some moisture on the connections that power the battery computer blew the moisture out put di-electrical grease on it. Thought that I fixed it. Not so fast about five miles into my test drive started to act up again took a video of it while driving. Additionally now as soon as I plug it in to charge it displays car needs service "may not restart" and I get the red ring around charge port contactors open up.

one that had some moisture in it

Loose bolt that caused car to pull under acceleration

HVIL pressure switch at the HV battery(male side)

Female portion part of the bat

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Here is the video of the car acting up while I drive it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjol38TptL8

 

[EV6]

Did you try to add some sort of seal to the connector?

 

[wk057]

Doesn't seem like a HVIL issue. I *believe* the car would shut down if it were a HVIL issue. "Car may not restart" suggests a 12V issue. Possibly the DC-DC, but not sure without diagnostic info.

 

[FlasherZ]

I was thinking the same thing - if it were the HVIL, you'd feel that "CLUNK" of the entire system disconnecting, and the P/R/N/D indicator would turn red. I can't imagine the car would allow a violation of that interlock to take place without shutting down the contactors and isolating the HV.

 

[zhur0002]

This is after charging for about an hour. Hear my contactors open displays "Car needs Service" May not restart while charging ring goes red. Was able to disconnect 12v battery and reset car quick enough before contactors opened up again and turn car on. Once car is turned on it will not shut down just will do what is shown in the video and than be ok. The video is taken in the garage the car is on and is completely still no movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5D5rGupRA0

Very closely related to the outside temp, seem to have more issues when its Minnesota warm out.(above 0 deg C) Or after charging car for a little bit. After it opens up contactors and stops charge, unplugging the car and opening and closing any car door usually closes up the contactors and car is ready to charge again, but will fail again after short period unless I let it sit for about an hour before I plug it back in. Sometimes opening the door will close contactors for a few seconds and than they will open again. I have a feeling that it still might be a bad connection to the HV battery computer module, uses the 12V system. While the car was on and having a fit I tried wiggling as many wires as I could with no luck. Or another possibility is that some sensor thinks something is not right or giving false data? Any thoughts? I'm lost.

 

[zhur0002]

I guess all I'm waiting for to have the car 100% complete is a pyrofuse, get the pyrofuse installed and drive the car to Tesla to get it inspected. I'm sure they will know what's wrong with as soon as a scanner will get hooked up.

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My company has rebuilt a lot of car's and I do not even remember the last car I had to take to a dealer to get it running right. I hate to be defeated by a car but I think this Tesla did it.

 

[murphyS85]

Are you certain that the cooling pumps are running and that there is no air in the cooling lines?

 

[zhur0002]

Yes I checked all the pumps they all vibrate when I first connect the 12V on the car. There are just 3 of them located under the frunk? There could be a little bit of air in the system, when the rear seat is out I can hear antifreeze-air traveling through the hoses. Is that normal?

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Is there a way to bleed the system for air. I know there is a bleed plug on the front radiator and that is what I used to bleed the system.

 

[LMB]

(LMB spouse)

Is there a way to bleed the system for air. I know there is a bleed plug on the front radiator and that is what I used to bleed the system.

LMB's car had a pump replaced in our driveway shortly after delivery. The tech did a bleed cycle via software (at least, he said it would take a few minutes to bleed and he didn't appear to do anything mechanical to the car.)

 

[qwk]

You either need a password for the service menu, or a tesla laptop to bleed the coolant lines.

 

[zhur0002]

I have neither of those yet. Does anyone know if password is unique to each car or is it all the same? Or if each software version has its own password? I would like to get into the diagnostic mode it will give me so much more info additionally I could then add fog lamps to the car since it now has them but does not see them.

 

[FlasherZ]

I have neither of those yet. Does anyone know if password is unique to each car or is it all the same? Or if each software version has its own password? I would like to get into the diagnostic mode it will give me so much more info additionally I could then add fog lamps to the car since it now has them but does not see them.

Rumors are that it's unique to car and is time-based.