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No power = broken window!

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As a software guy, can I say WTF with an update the fails and doesn't charge the car? Who writes software that sucks this badly?

The smartphone mentality of write terrible software today so we can update it tomorrow needs to end immediately. For critical components like a car and a charger they need a better class of software engineer to avoid making this type of inexcusable mistake.
But… but… fail fast keeps the stakeholders happy!
 
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When I give our Ukrainian guests a lift anywhere, one of them - the mum - is completely unable to remember to use the button rather than the manual release. I've given up reminding her, because it has no effect. (It's not a language thing, she has the best English of the three, and is the only one who is unable to learn). However the window and trim are fine despite her efforts.

When there's power, the manual release does lower the window, but someone who opened the release and pushed the door simultaneously might be able to damage it. I don't think if you just pull the handle but don't put any pressure it's really that big a deal. Maybe I've just been lucky.
I find most new passengers seems to use the manual release which is very annoying, might have to just get them to sit in the back if they continue!
 
When I give our Ukrainian guests a lift anywhere, one of them - the mum - is completely unable to remember to use the button rather than the manual release. I've given up reminding her, because it has no effect.

I find most new passengers seems to use the manual release which is very annoying, might have to just get them to sit in the back if they continue!
I've seen this too. I wonder if I could 3D print something to either stop the handle from being used a la those locks you get for the back seat, or even just a bright red "emergency only" reminder.

Too cold to go out just now and check the feasibility, but may make it my xmas project.
 
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I've seen this too. I wonder if I could 3D print something to either stop the handle from being used a la those locks you get for the back seat, or even just a bright red "emergency only" reminder.

Too cold to go out just now and check the feasibility, but may make it my xmas project.
You can use vinyl wrap to cover the manual release. They won't be as obvious but can still be used in an emergency, if necessary.
 
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all this talk about manual release handle is ridiculous to me..
u do realize other Teslas (like legacy MX for example) only have the manual handle n it never breaks the window or trim (with power of course)
when u have power, window will drop down before u can push the door after pulling manual release, stop worrying about it
 
I will challenge this but not sure it will get me anywhere.

It’s Ok to say don’t run out of juice, but for me it’s an inevitable outcome at some point for some one - and one that should be accounted for in the design and operation.

I am guessing that the freezing temperature made the rubber round the frame less flexible than normal and it’s that which has resulted in the glass smashing.

Whole incident has cost be almost £1000 (recovery, alternate car hire, repair)….feeling very bruised by it all.
 
I am guessing that the freezing temperature made the rubber round the frame less flexible than normal and it’s that which has resulted in the glass smashing.
its a heavy gauge metal trim, designed to prevent frame-less windows from being pulled away when its closed. as i said before, its done for security n sealing just like every other car with frame-less windows.
cold weather could have only affected the glass, it might crack easier vs hot summer.
there have been cases discussed on here where tint shops broke glass due to same issue, closing the door when glass is all the way up...
 
Sorry but imho it was an insane decision to set off on a 15mile journey with 12 miles of range given the current conditions, or on a 30 mile journey with 43 miles of rrange. Your asking for trouble. Bonkers
The 15 mile and 12 mile decision was pretty fixed.

Charger not working and that was the next nearest option.

30 and 43…maybe. Had an EV for 4 years and made trips like this on a couple of occasions and not been caught out (although not with the temps - didn’t put 2 and 2 together in the short time I had to make the decision) and also thought I had the back-up of a local destination charger.

Still feel that the impact should be the cost of a recovery trip and not something that results in £500 of damage to a car and requiring 5 days off road.
 
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Sorry to hear this.

There's a few insurances who now cover EV recovery if you run out so it might be worth looking into that.

Another thought, does the boot have an emergency open button from the inside? Just as a back up to save the dreaded broken glass issue?
 
Another thought, does the boot have an emergency open button from the inside? Just as a back up to save the dreaded broken glass issue?
It does. As does the frunk which has always confused me. Who could get in there? If anyone says “a child” I want picture proof. Any child who can get in there is too young to know about pressing buttons.
 
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The 15 mile and 12 mile decision was pretty fixed.

Charger not working and that was the next nearest option.

30 and 43…maybe. Had an EV for 4 years and made trips like this on a couple of occasions and not been caught out (although not with the temps - didn’t put 2 and 2 together in the short time I had to make the decision) and also thought I had the back-up of a local destination charger.

Still feel that the impact should be the cost of a recovery trip and not something that results in £500 of damage to a car and requiring 5 days off road.


% is handier to get a read on what is used but you still need to get a feel for how many miles you can do per % for different weather conditions.

But you started with 46, travelled 15 miles and arrived with 12 indicated. So the car has used ‘34’ miles to travel 15. so you’d arrive home with maybe - 22 with the same conditions. That feels like ’find a 13 amp socket - heck go to argos/B&Q and find the longest extension cable I can if needed’ but stay put where you have warmth/electricity etc.

Sorry you ended up stuck though. and I’d really push back on the window. You can argue strongly I think that safety wise the car should enable you to exit in any conditions in the event of a power loss. Thats bloody dangerous if it traps you. You had no choice other than use the manual release and there were no warnings in the manual of damage to the glass. Clearly the window has malfunctioned and should be covered under warranty
 
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Thanks all.

20/20 hindsight shows there were a number that of decisions that would have avoided this, a learning opportunity.

Checked insurance - and it seems windscreen damage covered, but not other windows but will check when they respond.

Have approved the repair in order to get the car back asap but messaged to say that I am doing this whilst stating that I wish to challenge.

Anyone any advice on the best way to challenge Tesla on a warranty repair? Local garage contact or via head office etc
 
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