NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed

[bo3bdar]

Been going over all I did and I can’t figure out what would have caused the low voltage lithium battery to die since I disconnected the penthouse. I was getting alerts from the car about doors being opened though, so that makes me wonder if there is something else that has to be done to make sure this doesn’t happen. Maybe the “12v” (really 15.5) connector on the penthouse has to be disconnected as well to ensure the low volt lithium battery can’t discharge. Still waiting for the tow. Hoping they can jump it and it doesn’t have to be towed. we will see.

For those who did this, did you disconnect the 12/15v as well (which leads to the front)?

Just noting that the Tesla repair manual says that if you are disconnecting the grey power connector, that you also need to disconnect the front 12V. This is part of any electrical isolation step. Tesla is still providing access to these manuals with a free account.

Model 3 Service Manual | Tesla

service.tesla.com

 

[St3phen]

Just noting that the Tesla repair manual says that if you are disconnecting the grey power connector, that you also need to disconnect the front 12V. This is part of any electrical isolation step. Tesla is still providing access to these manuals with a free account.

Model 3 Service Manual | Tesla

service.tesla.com

I'm so lame for NOT starting there. Thank you for the reminder, and the link!

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Update: just needed a jump. The state of charge dropped on the 15v battery and that’s why nothing worked. Next time, I’ll disconnect the negative terminal on the 15v battery, as well as disconnect the penthouse. I’m also going to invest in a portable battery jumper. Will tackle again next weekend. Fun times!

So you’re saying the car will die under 15v? I thought we had a 3V buffer to keep her alive.

 

[St3phen]

So you’re saying the car will die under 15v? I thought we had a 3V buffer to keep her alive.

I would say it "went into stasis". I don't know how far it actually dipped, and when I checked the SOC in the SERVICE menu, it was already up to 75% (after just a few minutes of being "jumped"). It must be a way to protect itself. I don't know. I should have disconnected the low voltage battery in the frunk before I did what I did - that would have avoided all of it. I think minimally this is justification for pulling from the penthouse, to ensure you aren't draining the lithium-ion battery up front. At least that is my take right now.

 

[Kwame]

Did anyone ever actually receive an “instruction manual” from NVX for this kit? Yes, I’m aware that there is a YouTube video in regard to the install but I would also like some written documentation (especially since they says there is one on their product page).

 

[bo3bdar]

Did anyone ever actually receive an “instruction manual” from NVX for this kit? Yes, I’m aware that there is a YouTube video in regard to the install but I would also like some written documentation (especially since they says there is one on their product page).

Here is the link off the sonicelectronix.com site:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/landing/manuals/betm3vsw10s2.pdf

Some schematics and install info on the sales page there:

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-180667-2017-Up-Tesla-Model-3-Custom-10-Subwoofer-and-Box-NVX-BE-TM3-VSW10S2.html

However, best information is actually found in their video:

One thing I also did differently is to skip the jack-nut, because I didn't have the proper drill bit size, and also heard reports of it not working great anyway. Getting my box to line up the bracket with the hole was non-trivial, I think my inner Tesla liner was more puffy or somehow misaligned, as I had to provide a lot of force to flatten it into position.

Instead of the jack-nut, I used the small hole in the frame right above the hole, and fished a piece of string through the bolt hole. That allowed me to tie a regular bolt onto the string, and pull it in using the thread from behind. Thus the bolt head is inside the frame, pointing out. Just enough space to have a finger in the hole, holding the bolt in place. I added a nut and lock washer on the outside to hold it in place. I also cut out the entire piece of Tesla liner, not just cut the holes as shown in the video. That formed chunk of liner for the original plastic pop-rivet was too unwieldy.

That made it easier to line up the boost bracket, because then I just needed to get the bolt through the hole on the bracket, and could then add a nut and tighten it down. A bit of fiddling, but I'm happy with the install.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Has anyone considered any cooling options for the amp area?

 

[St3phen]

Update: Got it installed. However, like someone else mentioned, the box doesn't quite fit like it should. In fact, when I placed it in the cubby, it damaged the grill. It also isn't flush along the top (like their video). I'm 99% sure the mold they use to create this is from a 2020 and there are enough changes to the 2023 where it doesn't really work like it should. I'm looking at other options for a box. Crazy to me that there don't seem to be a lot of options out there. What I really want is a bandpass, but don't want to give up any trunk space. lol. Almost tempted to see if I can modify this NVX box and then maybe put a port on it (with polyfill) to see if I can get it tuned to hit harder around 45hz.

 

[St3phen]

Has anyone considered any cooling options for the amp area?

Nah - when I had this setup in my Model 3, I had the XLA2 tucked behind the carpet shell (near the tesla amp) and had the amp on the side in the trunk area. On the Y, I just put both under the rear deck (near the back seat). There is a couple of inches of clearance space. The amp is very efficient too. As sucky as the supplier is, the NVX hardware itself is impressive - not worried about overheating.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Update: Got it installed. However, like someone else mentioned, the box doesn't quite fit like it should. In fact, when I placed it in the cubby, it damaged the grill. It also isn't flush along the top (like their video). I'm 99% sure the mold they use to create this is from a 2020 and there are enough changes to the 2023 where it doesn't really work like it should. I'm looking at other options for a box. Crazy to me that there don't seem to be a lot of options out there. What I really want is a bandpass, but don't want to give up any trunk space. lol. Almost tempted to see if I can modify this NVX box and then maybe put a port on it (with polyfill) to see if I can get it tuned to hit harder around 45hz.

Interesting that something changed back there even though the outside is the same. Is it bc of the cargo cover? People have swapped the rear panel from a 2023 to a 2022 and older before and they didn’t mention any issues

 

[Kwame]

I know a few of you are running dual subs without any issues. I have dual NVX boost box subs and a VAD10001 in my basement that I’m going to install this week. I received this response from NVX today when I inquired why they didn’t offer the option of a dual subwoofer package.

I’m slightly confused because wouldn’t it not affect the 12/15V battery until you upsize the amp from what they provide in their single subwoofer kit? Perhaps the assumption is that they would upsize the amplifier in order to provide the subwoofers with the optimal amount of power? Anyways, this is just food for thought.

 

[C-Bus Y]

You can use their 500W amp on 2 subs, it is 1 ohm stable. It is just a bit low on power but still sounds good. 1000W sounds great!

 

[St3phen]

Interesting that something changed back there even though the outside is the same. Is it bc of the cargo cover? People have swapped the rear panel from a 2023 to a 2022 and older before and they didn’t mention any issues

Good question. Could be? My wife has a 2020 Model Y - I suppose I can see if it drops in there easier (just to check). If I had to guess, the cubby may be shallower in the 23? I'll have to play with it some. I fixed the grill and will try again.

 

[St3phen]

You can use their 500W amp on 2 subs, it is 1 ohm stable. It is just a bit low on power but still sounds good. 1000W sounds great!

Yeah, I honestly don't know if I'd run anything more powerful if just tapping the penthouse for power. I've been using the smaller 500RMS amp for 3 years now (in 2 different teslas) and have never received a battery error, but I know a part of that is how efficient that little amp is. Anything bigger may be asking for issues

 

[St3phen]

Nah - when I had this setup in my Model 3, I had the XLA2 tucked behind the carpet shell (near the tesla amp) and had the amp on the side in the trunk area. On the Y, I just put both under the rear deck (near the back seat). There is a couple of inches of clearance space. The amp is very efficient too. As sucky as the supplier is, the NVX hardware itself is impressive - not worried about overheating.

So, slight caveat - I noticed today that the amp and line converter were almost too hot to touch. A little concerning. It doesn’t help that it is a billion degrees in Texas right now though. I figured maybe some of it was due to running the VADM1 in bridge mode too, so I stopped doing that. Curious to see if that helps. I’m also wondering if the line converter ever shuts off. I put a camera in the car and have been timing how long before it cuts out. Up to 30 minutes right now and it’s still powered on. Don’t know if I like that too much

 

[St3phen]

I had to unplug the high level input to the XLCA2 and it finally shut off (along with the amp). Any ideas for what else can be used as a remote lead for the line converter on a 15v system? I tapped the wires at the amp plug; maybe I need to tap the wires leading to the sub (from the amp) instead.

Also, I noticed the Tesla amp is very hot too, so some of the heat is just weather related. I just don’t like the fact the amp or line converter isn’t shutting off like it’s supposed to. (Didn’t have this issue with the 12v system BTW)

 

[TwoK4drSi]

I had to unplug the high level input to the XLCA2 and it finally shut off (along with the amp). Any ideas for what else can be used as a remote lead for the line converter on a 15v system? I tapped the wires at the amp plug; maybe I need to tap the wires leading to the sub (from the amp) instead.

Also, I noticed the Tesla amp is very hot too, so some of the heat is just weather related. I just don’t like the fact the amp or line converter isn’t shutting off like it’s supposed to. (Didn’t have this issue with the 12v system BTW)

Lol didn’t you say cooling wasn’t needed

 

[C-Bus Y]

I had to unplug the high level input to the XLCA2 and it finally shut off (along with the amp). Any ideas for what else can be used as a remote lead for the line converter on a 15v system? I tapped the wires at the amp plug; maybe I need to tap the wires leading to the sub (from the amp) instead.

Also, I noticed the Tesla amp is very hot too, so some of the heat is just weather related. I just don’t like the fact the amp or line converter isn’t shutting off like it’s supposed to. (Didn’t have this issue with the 12v system BTW)

Add a manual toggle switch or tap into the driver seat sensor…which would only turn on the amp when you are in the driver’s seat.

 

[St3phen]

Lol didn’t you say cooling wasn’t needed

LOL - I did! So hard to tell if it’s running hot due to the 15v system or running hot because it is so incredibly hot outside! The low is in the 90s right now

 

[St3phen]

Pictures from my install in a 2023 MYP. Not happy with the fit-n-finish at all. I know this isn't a 100K car, but now it looks like a jalopy in the back, which I don't like. Definitely do not recommend for the 2023, which has a different trim setup and dimensions in the back.

1. Not flush at all
2. No place to install the supplied mount to keep it tight and secure
3. Compresses the grill
4. The border trim piece (that goes up against the grill) is no longer sitting flush because of item #1.