Ohlins R&T Coilovers with Swift Springs!

[tom @ eas]

Ohlins just released the "Street Tuned" version of their R&T kit this week:

Ohlins - Road & Track DFV Coilover System (Street Tuned) - Tesla Model 3/Model Y

Ohlins new Street Tuned suspension package combines unparalleled ride comfort with premium features and tuning options, resulting in the ultimate comfort upgrade for Tesla Model Y & 3. No matter your destination, the Öhlins Street Tuned dampers deliver a smoother ride with superior handling and...

europeanautosource.com

 

[Sweed269]

Ohlins doesn't provide springs with enough stroke. They have negative adjustment range if you want to use spring preload to adjust height and keep stock bottom out specs.

 

[Jigglypuff]

Redwood tool the Ohlins RT and lifted my MY and it works fine. A bit stiff, but a ton better handling than stock. The narrow range of motion at least keeps the car out of the weird camber issues.

 

[kodenco]

Has anyone here tried going to a 11kg square setup? I have the normal non Redwood Ohlins R&T, and I’m running 11 clicks on the front and 25 clicks in the rear.

The front rides perfect, feels a bit firm but definitely has some give with damping set to 11, exactly what I wanted.

But the rear feels significantly stiffer than the front. I’ve adjusted damping on the rear from 15 all the way 25 and haven’t noticed a significant difference in stiffness with it set to either….you can definitely feel the difference from front to rear going over any speed bump.

 

[Sweed269]

I'm running a 7 front 11 rear. After 10 clicks from closed there is very little change. I have the Dyno graphs and 1-10 is 75% of the range.

I had mine revalved to the 7/8k street tune and they are much better. I can almost get them too soft. Full stiff is about 15 on the old tune.

The 11k rear now feels almost soft.

The rear has a significant reduction in droop travel if you set them for stock bottom out. You can remove 2 of the 3 rear spacer and then add the 20mm stroke to the total length of the shock to get 24ish more wheel droop. Or you can get up to 15mm of extra shock compression with reduced pack clearance at bottom out.
It's not the spring that super stiff. It's the shock tune.

 

[slzeal]

Has anyone here tried going to a 11kg square setup? I have the normal non Redwood Ohlins R&T, and I’m running 11 clicks on the front and 25 clicks in the rear.

The front rides perfect, feels a bit firm but definitely has some give with damping set to 11, exactly what I wanted.

But the rear feels significantly stiffer than the front. I’ve adjusted damping on the rear from 15 all the way 25 and haven’t noticed a significant difference in stiffness with it set to either….you can definitely feel the difference from front to rear going over any speed bump.

How many miles do you have on your kit? I have about ~15k miles and either the rear is worn in now or I'm used to the rear.
Currently at 14/16 f/r

 

[kodenco]

How many miles do you have on your kit? I have about ~15k miles and either the rear is worn in now or I'm used to the rear.
Currently at 14/16 f/r

Kit is relatively new, about 5k miles on the setup.

 

[kodenco]

I'm running a 7 front 11 rear. After 10 clicks from closed there is very little change. I have the Dyno graphs and 1-10 is 75% of the range.

I had mine revalved to the 7/8k street tune and they are much better. I can almost get them too soft. Full stiff is about 15 on the old tune.

The 11k rear now feels almost soft.

The rear has a significant reduction in droop travel if you set them for stock bottom out. You can remove 2 of the 3 rear spacer and then add the 20mm stroke to the total length of the shock to get 24ish more wheel droop. Or you can get up to 15mm of extra shock compression with reduced pack clearance at bottom out.
It's not the spring that super stiff. It's the shock tune.

How much did revalving them cost? Just curious.

 

[Cypcode]

Probably cost $250/shock

 

[Sweed269]

Total was $500. I also needed new adjusters which was 150.

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Top professional shop.

 

[kodenco]

Found a deal on some 10kg swift springs for the rear. Will try that out and see if it achieves the result I’m looking for. If so, I’ll probably change out the front to 9kg.

If not, I’ll probably send it all out to performance shock and go back to the Ohlins 12kg rear setup.

 

[slzeal]

Found a deal on some 10kg swift springs for the rear. Will try that out and see if it achieves the result I’m looking for. If so, I’ll probably change out the front to 9kg.

If not, I’ll probably send it all out to performance shock and go back to the Ohlins 12kg rear setup.

Keep us updated!

 

[Sweed269]

FYI the stock 180mm rear ohlins spring has almost zero preload adjustment range. Depending on ride height and rate you can get a swift 203mm spring. 11k will give you a -5 to +10ish range vs MYP. 10k is about 5mm less.
As soon as you go less than 11k in the front you have to get a longer spring. Stock ohlins front spring will coil bind at full bottom out. Front needs at least 110mm of spring stroke. Rear needs around 90mm.

 

[kodenco]

FYI the stock 180mm rear ohlins spring has almost zero preload adjustment range. Depending on ride height and rate you can get a swift 203mm spring. 11k will give you a -5 to +10ish range vs MYP. 10k is about 5mm less.
As soon as you go less than 11k in the front you have to get a longer spring. Stock ohlins front spring will coil bind at full bottom out. Front needs at least 110mm of spring stroke. Rear needs around 90mm.

Good to know, thanks. TBH, that's kind of why I only ordered the rear first. Half because I wanted to see if this will solve the "rear being too stiff" woes before decided to revalve, but half because I wanted to see how it feels with 10k in the rear and the stock 11k in the front. 11k should keep me within that 20% difference, I ordered PN Z65-178-100.

I also need to do some research for what the stock fender to hub height was from factory. I was already lowered on MPP Comforts before I switched to this Ohlin's setup and I kept it at roughly the same height, but I have no frame of reference currently to how many mm lower I am from factory.

 

[Sweed269]

I know it sucks having to buy more springs. If you want a flat ride suspension you need 3-4k softer front spring. Otherwise it will be a pitch setup and have a lot of rocking front to back over bumps.
Rear fender gap is 10ish mm higher than the front on my car with a 155mm battery height. I tried lower but was hitting the bump stops on our terrible roads.

 

[slzeal]

FYI the stock 180mm rear ohlins spring has almost zero preload adjustment range. Depending on ride height and rate you can get a swift 203mm spring. 11k will give you a -5 to +10ish range vs MYP. 10k is about 5mm less.
As soon as you go less than 11k in the front you have to get a longer spring. Stock ohlins front spring will coil bind at full bottom out. Front needs at least 110mm of spring stroke. Rear needs around 90mm.

Does this mean you are running 7k 9 inch springs in the front and 11k 8 inch springs in the rear?

Would a 9k 8 inch spring in the front and the stock Ohlins Rear 12k spring in the rear do well? I may switch to swift springs in a lower rate as well but not in a particular rush

 

[Sweed269]

I'm running a 7k 10 inch front. You need 40ish mm of preload and a 9 would coil bind or lower the car at least 10-15mm.
9k 8 inch has 128mm of stroke, but you need to leave around 5mm of safety buffer. Usable spec is 102mm.
Figure 13mm max preload. I can calculate you min and max ride height tomorrow.

Gut feeling is that you need a 9k 9 inch spring or it will sag too much and not accept enough preload. 9 inch has 143mm max stroke.

I have like new Swift 7k 203mm and 8k 178mm springs for sale if anyone wants them.

Metric Coilover Springs | Swift Springs USA

» Metric Coilover Springs |

www.swiftsprings.com

 

[dsgerbc]

Found a deal on some 10kg swift springs for the rear. Will try that out and see if it achieves the result I’m looking for. If so, I’ll probably change out the front to 9kg.

If not, I’ll probably send it all out to performance shock and go back to the Ohlins 12kg rear setup.

I have Redwood's shocks with 7/11 and 11/13 spring sets. I did actually try 11/11 and it was predictably somewhat more understeery, with little perceived benefit in putting the power down on autox courses. I think street comfort (at least on RW-tuned shocks) is largely a function of front springs.

 

[dsgerbc]

Correction, I tried 10/11 setup. Redwood HPDE setup is 10/13k.

 

[Sweed269]

Does this mean you are running 7k 9 inch springs in the front and 11k 8 inch springs in the rear?

Would a 9k 8 inch spring in the front and the stock Ohlins Rear 12k spring in the rear do well? I may switch to swift springs in a lower rate as well but not in a particular rush

A 9k 8 inch front spring needs 63mm of compression to support the weight of the car. This would give a 20-25mm drop from stock performance.
Moving to a longer 9 inch spring would give you -10 to +15ish range.