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parking brake fault

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Like the rest of the folks here I have come to the same situation. I had the error appearing once in a while and wiggling with gearstick managed me to get on my drives. Until the caliper came to a seizure and you just are not able to move it without any help or by the solution given on the video. One tip on the trick on video, if you remove the motor of caliper then there is rubber O-ring seal (seen on the photo), you do not want to loose it... I managed to get used one from ebay and eventually the other side came from SeC. On the photos are new and mine (RH) side-by-side. You can see how much the pins are corroded and covered by the road dust. I believe the caliper and the motor are all fine as if the pads are not moving (the motor has inner sensors to tell the car if it’s released) then you will get the alert. I did mounted the used caliper back on, obviously cleaned all up before the job. Will see how long this will last. The motor engaged after three-four times of getting the car to P.
One suggestion to all, if you do not want to shuffle 1,8 grand to Tesla for the new set then clean the pins and the pads ANNUALLY.
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Any idea where i can purchase these replacement rear parking motors?

Would rather DIY the replacement than send them in.
 
I do not know that the motors are old separately, they come with the caliper. When I did my search online that part no. did brought up some exotic car names that have used this same caliper on their cars. I also found that on ebay was seller who had several unmarked rear calipers for sale. I did not dear to purchase them as after reading that recall document, it was clear they had some issues with the parts manufactured before 2017 and that was the reason they made the recall. If choosing used one from ebay I would definitely go for parts past that date (see for the engraved imprint on the part, two first no. reflect the man. year). If there is none and you have to choose from earlier date then definitely make an overhaul before installing it on the car.
Mine has worked fine, planning to make new cleaning this spring, when the weather allows.
 
Thanks for the response. Were you under warranty for the brake replacement?

Also, when you said "it does not apply to my 2015," that's what I thought originally based upon Tesla's own recall notice. However, the updated notice says Tesla Model S vehicles between 2012 - 2016.

The recall report says, "Descriptive Information: Select model year 2012-2016 Tesla Model S electric vehicles Production Dates : JUL 12, 2012 - NOV 17, 2016"

I have a 2015 85D with this exact issue along with a service appointment on the 16th. Of course, I'd like it if Tesla fixed this under the recall.

I have an inquiry into NHTSA to see what their take is on it.
How did this go?

Super frustrated as I just got the free rolling error and you can hear the solenoid gear grinding from time to time. Tesla service made me go in to get a diagnosis, all I asked for is if my car was covered in the recall.

The production date on my car was November 21, 2016 and the recall was for up to November 17, 2016. "Can't cover it sorry sir"

Trying to get a used one to replace my failing one as I don't want to drive my car until I replace it.
 
How did this go?

Super frustrated as I just got the free rolling error and you can hear the solenoid gear grinding from time to time. Tesla service made me go in to get a diagnosis, all I asked for is if my car was covered in the recall.

The production date on my car was November 21, 2016 and the recall was for up to November 17, 2016. "Can't cover it sorry sir"

Trying to get a used one to replace my failing one as I don't want to drive my car until I replace it.
If there's an electric motor shop in your area then they could rehab them.
 
Yes, exactly the same happened to me. I bought a new caliper + motor from ebay and replaced it (a 30 mins job). Working flawlessly since months.

In my case, the motor developed an intermittent fault. IMHO either you fix it yourself o go to service to have it fixed. It will get you stranded if it does not release.
Can you give details of the parts you bought and changed? I’d like to do the same for my model x. It’s very annoying that it’s happening on a daily basis and sometimes multiple times a day. The quote from tesla was 1300. That’s crazy. Thanks.
 
HERE IS THE SOLUTION - If you saw my other thread about a 5000 lb lawn ornament - it is the parking brakes that caused that and DOZENS of other errors.

The issue is the motor itself - and this affects the "classic" model S AND X cars that have separate parking calipers on the rear wheels.
The motor has a sensor in it as well as the two wires for the motor itself, and the housing LEAKS. When water gets in past either of the two O-rings, it can short out the sensor (parking brake errors) OR - and this is the fun part - it can short out the 5v CANBUS TO THE WHOLE CAR! The 5v reference supply to the CANBUS communications is on the same source as what feeds the 5v reference to the sensor in the brakes - so if that shorts out, the communication bus crashes over a fence and into a river. The drive inverter and the gateway and the parking module will all throw errors at you... The shift selector may not communicate, the horn may not work, the windows might not work.... It's a mess.

All because of a 20 cent O-ring.

NOW THE HAPPY NEWS: You can buy the motor AND the gearbox together on Ebay from the (very likely the original manufacturer) Chinese supplier for about $60 each. Here you go:


TIPS: When you are ready to install the motor, you don't even have to remove the caliper from the rotor. But if you want to, take the motor off the caliper (T20 torx) and then rotate the large gear CLOCKWISE (tighten) and the pads will release.

I used a Q-tip to push more grease into the motor gearbox before installing it. I also wiped off both O-rings (motor to gearbox and then gearbox to caliper) and coated both in silicone sealant to make SURE that there was no way moisture could get in.

This isn't hard to do, and it is definitely not an $1800 job! You can do both wheels in about 30 minutes total if you drink the beer VERY slowly. If you are nearby the border with New Hampshire that is above Boston... Go to the Electrified Garage, they were the ones that helped me solve this problem and pointed out the underlying cause to all the electrical errors. They deserve our support!
 
I have exactly the same problem, 2015 s that had complained for a while of random parking brake problems and then after I get my Tesla service last week and mentioned it to them they said I need a new caliper and they ordered it and then I came home and it was permanently locked now. I'm going to try to unlock it.

Anyone have a place in the Seattle area that can do this fix?
 
I have also had intermittent issues with error codes. I have taken apart both sides and found corrosion in the gear assemblies. I suspect there is also a source for issue in the plug connection, I had both sides full of wet sand. These plugs are not well protected. I also second the idea of putting silicone over the electric motor mount to lessen the water ingress into the gear assembly.
 
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I have also had intermittent issues with error codes. I have taken apart both sides and found corrosion in the gear assemblies. I suspect there is also a source for issue in the plug connection, I had both sides full of wet sand. These plugs are not well protected. I also second the idea of putting silicone over the electric motor mount to lessen the water ingress into the gear assembly.
I suppose you could, I mean its happening where the o-ring is based on what I can tell.
 
I suppose you could, I mean its happening where the o-ring is based on what I can tell.
True, but in my case both side o-rings were fine and I have not seen that dramatic interior damage on the motor side. So as preventative method I have now since this autumn added that silicone threat to the motor part aluminium section. I know from my past that fillform corrosion is one major risk if the metal is not protected from elements.
 
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I wish I had a local place in Seattle that could have replaced them for me, but I paid tesla the $1800 or whatever it was. That particular repair seems like highway robbery since the parts are cheap and the videos make it look fairly easy. If I had any guts I'd have bought some heavy duty lifts and done it.
 
You don't even need any "heavy duty lifts" I did it with nothing more than a $75 floor jack from Harbor Freight. Lift from the pad with or without the puck and take the wheel off. You don't get under the vehicle at all and if you are paranoid about the jack, put a jackstand under the base of the control arm (which by design HAS to hold the weight of the car) and don't release the jack. Just leave the stand there as a safety.

The work takes 10-15 minutes if you are really slow with the beer.