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Summary video coming. The 'tubes' are clogged, so it is taking time to upload.
Yep. Hit reverse, it pops up. No guidelines though (at the moment) - not sure if this is me, or just not available.
The Alpine HCE-C107D my car came with will only work with selected Alpine head units (proprietary connector). Yours may be different. The Parrot comes with a RCA standard video in. The solution I found was to get a clearance discounted newer Alpine HCE-C115, which comes bundled with a little adaptor box. The adaptor box plugs in to the end of the cable from the HCE-C107D and converts it to RCA video. I only needed the adaptor box, but couldn't find any way of buying one on its own cheaply and quickly. The alternative, of replacing the backup camera, and running all that cable through the car, was too much hassle, and the solution I found works well and cost me about US$115.
Anyone want to buy a HCE-C115 camera, with cables, but no adaptor box
Yep. GPS based, though. CAN will be possible when I get OVMS working with this. I just installed a Google Play App called Android Speedometer that includes a full-screen display, a home screen widget, and an optional floating display (which shows on top of anything else running).
OK, here's the video. Sorry, no HD - the youtube pipes were just too clogged.
Seriously considering changing the title of this thread to "Tesla Roadster - Any song, any time".
This is no 17" display, but it is fully programmable, incredibly powerful, and just amazing for tech-heads. The thought of having OVMS running on this has me salivating...
Some notes:
Postives: Almost everything.
Negatives: Only two: (1) There is no hard volume control (so I'm trying to work out a gesture based volume control that works in all the apps) - the pop-up volume controller is not amazing, and (2) I wish Parrot had just put standard stock Android on this with Google Play (rooting was not hard, but just a hassle).
Conclusion: This is a unit for tech-heads, unless you are happy with the base functionality provided (iGO maps, Spotify and a currently-limited number of apps in the Asteroid marketplace).
Mark.
Seriously considering changing the title of this thread to "Tesla Roadster - Any song, any time".
This is no 17" display, but it is fully programmable, incredibly powerful, and just amazing for tech-heads. The thought of having OVMS running on this has me salivating...
Some notes:
- I bought a US Parrot Asteroid SMART head unit, and Alpine HCE-C115 backup camera set.
- I rooted the parrot with Framaroot (I think I should rephrase that for our Australian readers, but what-the-heck).
- I SU'd the parrot with SuperSU.
- I installed the google frameworks and google play. Thence, google maps, youtube, etc.
- I use ADW Launcher Ex as my launcher, with ADW.Elegent theme.
- I use Android Speedometer as the speedometer display.
- I use Smart Volume Control+ for speed-based volume adjustment.
- I use PullOpen Settings for a pop-up volume control.
- I use TomTom for navigation (maps onboard), or Google Maps / Waze for Internet-based navigation. It has iGO for US-based users (maps onboard), but no iGO maps for Hong Kong (so I use TomTom).
- The facebook app is on, as it is needed by other apps which do facebook sign-on. No, I haven't 'checked in' to my car yet.
- Parrot Asteroid has Spotify and voice control apps available (either included or downloadable from their market), but I am experimenting with Utter as a very open and configurable solution.
- Spotify just launched in Hong Kong. US$6/month - any song, any time (tm).
- I got help installing this - just didn't want to mess with the roadster side of things too much. Had to re-wire a new audio harness, but everything needed was in the car (even though the head-unit side plug was the same, +12V and GND were the only two wires on the Alpine and Parrot harnesses that matched - all the others had to be swapped around). Mappings can be worked out by looking at the diagrams on the back of the Alpine and Parrot head units.
- An alternative to cutting-up the old Alpine-Tesla harness is to make an adaptor cable (1xfemale and 1xmale head-unit side connector and 16 wires).
- The backup camera in my car was a HCE-C107D, which only connects to Alpine head units. I purchased a discounted HCE-C115, which comes with a little adaptor box to convert the proprietary Alpine connector to standard RCA video (which then plugs in to the Parrot).
- There is a setting buried three deep in the advanced settings page of the parrot, which turns on/off the launching of the reversing camera app when you put the car in reverse. :cursing:
- You can arrange how you want, but we put (a) the laptop cable (for rooting and sideloading) under the fuse box, (b) the 3G dongle in the centre console (using existing usb extension cable from Alpine), (c) the gps dongle able the car's speedometer cluster, and (d) the iPhone cable driver-side beside the steering wheel.
- We put the Parrot noise-cancelling microphone above the rear-view mirror (between the mirror and the root). A brilliant location (very hidden and very good sound pickup).
- Apps that come from Google Play are not tagged as usable when driving (even if they are), and the Parrot will stop you using them when not parked. Solution is to ground the parking-brake line at the head unit side to disable the nanny.
Postives: Almost everything.
Negatives: Only two: (1) There is no hard volume control (so I'm trying to work out a gesture based volume control that works in all the apps) - the pop-up volume controller is not amazing, and (2) I wish Parrot had just put standard stock Android on this with Google Play (rooting was not hard, but just a hassle).
Conclusion: This is a unit for tech-heads, unless you are happy with the base functionality provided (iGO maps, Spotify and a currently-limited number of apps in the Asteroid marketplace).
Mark.
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A few pictures to finish this off, and give some suggestions.
The noise canceling microphone fits nicely just above the mirror. Works well there as well, and is well hidden.
I never liked the iPhone mount down by the handbrake, so moved it high up near the drivers door. It is now in line of sight. Also there (in that unusable storage cubby) is a spare USB socket and the mute/display for escort detector.
All together. Very neat and tidy - hard wired so the 12V accessory socket is free.
The noise canceling microphone fits nicely just above the mirror. Works well there as well, and is well hidden.
I never liked the iPhone mount down by the handbrake, so moved it high up near the drivers door. It is now in line of sight. Also there (in that unusable storage cubby) is a spare USB socket and the mute/display for escort detector.
All together. Very neat and tidy - hard wired so the 12V accessory socket is free.
felixtb
RsEU502,Sp+14274,XpEUSig4
mark this is looking great. I bought a head unit and will have it installed by my local Parrot installer in the next couple of weeks. I also bought the camera adapter box for the alpine. are you guys making a third generation OVMS box that will work more closely with this sort of set up.....?
thanks for the trailblazing....!
thanks for the trailblazing....!
The one thing that really bugs me about the Parrot Asteroid SMART is the lack of physical volume control buttons. The roadster doesn't have steering wheel audio controls, so UNIKA is not a possibility. Parrot make a bluetooth steering wheel remote for the Asteroid tablet, but it won't work on the SMART (they say it will later this year).
It is Android and that means the Parrot supports USB keyboards using the HID protocol.
So: markwj/hidmedia · GitHub
Using a PIC18F2550 (US$6 @mouser) usb-capable micro controller, I threw together a workable hand built prototype. It has a d-pad, two function keys and a mode switch. At the moment, I've got it programmed as mode 0 directional control and mode 1 media control. In directional control mode, it behaves like up, down, left, right, enter, esc, menu, etc - useful for navigating around the Android screens. In media control mode, the two top buttons are volume decease/increase, and the others will be for previous song, next song, play/pause, stop, mute, etc. There is a little led that currently blinks when you press a key.
Still some tuning to do, finding the correct media control codes, but not bad for a few hours work at the weekend - with my six year old daughter as a little helper she told me she wants to be me when she grows up
At the moment, volume control and directional control is perfect, but media pause/play and song navigation still a work-in-progress (I need to find the correct HID codes). Last thing would be to 3D print a nice box. Or, I could try to work out how that 4pin UNIKA connector works.
It is Android and that means the Parrot supports USB keyboards using the HID protocol.
So: markwj/hidmedia · GitHub
Using a PIC18F2550 (US$6 @mouser) usb-capable micro controller, I threw together a workable hand built prototype. It has a d-pad, two function keys and a mode switch. At the moment, I've got it programmed as mode 0 directional control and mode 1 media control. In directional control mode, it behaves like up, down, left, right, enter, esc, menu, etc - useful for navigating around the Android screens. In media control mode, the two top buttons are volume decease/increase, and the others will be for previous song, next song, play/pause, stop, mute, etc. There is a little led that currently blinks when you press a key.
Still some tuning to do, finding the correct media control codes, but not bad for a few hours work at the weekend - with my six year old daughter as a little helper she told me she wants to be me when she grows up
At the moment, volume control and directional control is perfect, but media pause/play and song navigation still a work-in-progress (I need to find the correct HID codes). Last thing would be to 3D print a nice box. Or, I could try to work out how that 4pin UNIKA connector works.
What you are doing Mark is just amazing and long overdue. I'm so excited to see it. I assume you are flying your car to Teslive where we can drool over your wizardry.
- - - Updated - - -
As for the controller, what is Tesla using in the Model X? It looked like a little ipod screen in the steering wheel.
- - - Updated - - -
As for the controller, what is Tesla using in the Model X? It looked like a little ipod screen in the steering wheel.
I did consider it:
$14.31 1.8 Mini LCD Touch Screen MP4 Player with Clip (4GB) - black at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Touch screens are cool - and from a UI standpoint their biggest advantage is that they can be changed in software, with the display updated to reflect current use. Works great for an in-your-face phone, but becomes a huge disadvantage for steering wheel controls.
(Soapbox)
The UI designer in me screams NO! when I see this.
Steering wheel controls are there so the driver can keep his eyes on the road. Forcing the driver to look down at a tiny screen to (a) see the labels so he knows which button to press, and (b) get the feedback he needs to hit the correct button, is a really bad idea.
Steering wheel controls should be simple, and usable purely by touch. That means a limited number of buttons, with fixed buttons, and some feedback mechanism (press click, sound, etc).
Have you ever tried to touch-type on an iPad screen? Try it without looking at the keyboard.
(/Soapbox)
So, I really hope the Model X doesn't end up with those little nanos. Maybe if they had little raised dots on each of the four corner buttons, plus a deep press to hactivate, plus haptic feedback - but I still hope not.
The system I'm building for my roadster is based on physical buttons with voice control and feedback. The touch screen is there for navigation on the go, as well as YouTube videos while in the parking lot.
Mark,
still liking your unit?
still debating this or the pioneer but the previous model and this one doesn't get the greatest reviews
Pioneer's AppRadio 3 adds MirrorLink, Siri Eyes Free and more
still liking your unit?
still debating this or the pioneer but the previous model and this one doesn't get the greatest reviews
Pioneer's AppRadio 3 adds MirrorLink, Siri Eyes Free and more
Still liking it. Way better than the Alpine, or any other head unit I've used.
I've got my gripes with it, but it is Android so I'm 'fixing' them in software one by one. The possibilities are endless.
It is not perfect, but it is the closest to perfect I have found,
Mark,
Thanks for your posts about the Parrot Asteroid Smart, it seems to be a good replacement for that not-so-great Alpine radio.
Spend an evening on rooting it, and getting the play store to work, but its working stable now.
Then i had to remove the Alpine IVA-W502R from the Roadster... Well that took way more time then i thought.
Removing the HU itself, was not that difficult. But trying to follow all the cables, lead me to a bluetooth module, navigation module, RDS tmc adapter and backup camera adapter wired to the Alpine HU.
They had to come out too (except for the backup camera adapter).
In order to do that you'll have to remove the dashboard completely.
I found a excellent writeup on how to do that here:
Replacement of Alpine IVA-NAV-10
The Alpine navigation unit sits on top of a plastic box (switchpack) behind the instrument cluster. It's held there by very sticky double sided tape.
I routed the new USB cable behind the VDS, to the IPhone socket. If you use this route, the cable length will be sufficient. If you use the official way, it's much more difficult to do as the USB cable runs under the passenger air bag though a hole to the passenger foot well area, and is clamped to a wire harness multiple times with tie-raps.
Re using the original USB cable is difficult, as Alpine used it's own proprietary plug.
As for fitting the Parrot Asteroid Smart, i'm having some problems fitting it with the side brackets into the holder. It does not line up correctly, and needs to be about 1cm further in.
Mark, how did you install it?
Thanks for your posts about the Parrot Asteroid Smart, it seems to be a good replacement for that not-so-great Alpine radio.
Spend an evening on rooting it, and getting the play store to work, but its working stable now.
Then i had to remove the Alpine IVA-W502R from the Roadster... Well that took way more time then i thought.
Removing the HU itself, was not that difficult. But trying to follow all the cables, lead me to a bluetooth module, navigation module, RDS tmc adapter and backup camera adapter wired to the Alpine HU.
They had to come out too (except for the backup camera adapter).
In order to do that you'll have to remove the dashboard completely.
I found a excellent writeup on how to do that here:
Replacement of Alpine IVA-NAV-10
The Alpine navigation unit sits on top of a plastic box (switchpack) behind the instrument cluster. It's held there by very sticky double sided tape.
I routed the new USB cable behind the VDS, to the IPhone socket. If you use this route, the cable length will be sufficient. If you use the official way, it's much more difficult to do as the USB cable runs under the passenger air bag though a hole to the passenger foot well area, and is clamped to a wire harness multiple times with tie-raps.
Re using the original USB cable is difficult, as Alpine used it's own proprietary plug.
As for fitting the Parrot Asteroid Smart, i'm having some problems fitting it with the side brackets into the holder. It does not line up correctly, and needs to be about 1cm further in.
Mark, how did you install it?
Seems to be some differences. I managed to re-use the alpine USB cable, but my reversing camera had no adaptor box (I had to buy one).
The cage has some pull out tabs. But even then it was a little loose. We thought about taping it, but were concerned about what would happen in an accident. In the end, we ended up bonding the metal cage to the parrot plastic shroud. Rock solid. The parrot is still removable (4 screws) - just the two surrounds bonded.
One other warning: We put the GPS dongle under the dash dial cover, but reception is not ideal. I suspect I will have to move it, as the windscreen is treated to reduce heat and that seems to be killing reception.
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I also have the solar windscreen, and therefore moved the GPS receiver to the following location:
This is the drivers side of the dashboard, you can see where the windscreen ends as the black stripe in the picture, the air duct is also visible.
I stuck the GPS receiver with double sided tape to the spot indicated by the arrow.
After connecting the ACC and BAT wires to the Parrot, i noticed that there was no sound.. It seems the amplifier of the Radio is never used, but instead the speaker wires are used as inputs for the Amplifier that must be in the car somewhere.
Connecting the Remote turn on lead to the ACC connection powered on the Amplifier.
Everything seemed to be working ok, but then i noticed that the coolant pump was running every now and then.
Turns out, the vibration sensor in the parrot is to sensitive. Even a big car or truck driving by will trigger it, and also power up the car. not good.
The solution was to run a wire from the 12V socket to the BAT wire of the parrot (and disconnect the BAT wire in the roadsters wire harness).
Now the parrot will power up once you unlock the car or open the door, and will not power up the car any more with it's vibration sensor.
This is the drivers side of the dashboard, you can see where the windscreen ends as the black stripe in the picture, the air duct is also visible.
I stuck the GPS receiver with double sided tape to the spot indicated by the arrow.
After connecting the ACC and BAT wires to the Parrot, i noticed that there was no sound.. It seems the amplifier of the Radio is never used, but instead the speaker wires are used as inputs for the Amplifier that must be in the car somewhere.
Connecting the Remote turn on lead to the ACC connection powered on the Amplifier.
Everything seemed to be working ok, but then i noticed that the coolant pump was running every now and then.
Turns out, the vibration sensor in the parrot is to sensitive. Even a big car or truck driving by will trigger it, and also power up the car. not good.
The solution was to run a wire from the 12V socket to the BAT wire of the parrot (and disconnect the BAT wire in the roadsters wire harness).
Now the parrot will power up once you unlock the car or open the door, and will not power up the car any more with it's vibration sensor.
What is the top surface there made of? Is the reception ok now you've had a few days to try it? Mine (under steering wheel cowl) is find most of the time, just some days it can't get a satellite lock at all.
I've noticed the same thing recently with mine, but not so sure it is the vibration sensor for me. When the vibration sensor activates, the little white led on the front of the parrot turns on, so it is easy to see. I can open and close the car door without that turning on. Only when my large 'bulk' slides (not so gracefully) into the drivers seat does it turn on. For me, it is not sensitive enough and doesn't help much with boot-up times.
I had a look at my OVMS logs, to see if I could find a correlation. My Parrot was installed on 26th April, and I looked at the vehicle state just after 2am each night (when the car should be very asleep). Here is what I found (the columns are date, door1[ignore], Tpem Tmotor, Tbattery, Tambient, coolingpump):
Code:
2013-04-05 104,29,31,24,23,0
2013-04-06 108,33,32,24,27,0
2013-04-07 104,21,19,22,18,0
2013-04-08 104,32,40,22,20,0
2013-04-09 96,32,39,24,20,0
2013-04-10 96,34,51,24,20,0
2013-04-11 128,37,28,24,19,2
2013-04-12 96,33,48,23,18,0
2013-04-14 136,33,26,24,27,2
2013-04-15 104,33,41,25,23,0
2013-04-16 104,33,52,27,24,0
2013-04-17 104,34,51,28,27,0
2013-04-18 104,34,54,30,27,0
2013-04-19 104,33,49,28,28,0
2013-04-20 104,33,51,26,26,0
2013-04-21 104,23,23,24,22,0
2013-04-22 104,34,48,25,22,0
2013-04-23 136,40,51,26,32,2
2013-04-24 104,34,50,28,26,0
2013-04-27 104,34,43,27,23,0
2013-04-28 104,27,28,24,22,0
2013-04-29 234,34,46,26,22,2
2013-04-30 104,34,46,26,27,0
2013-05-01 108,35,53,29,22,0
2013-05-02 96,34,47,25,20,0
2013-05-03 96,35,49,24,21,0
2013-05-04 108,31,33,26,26,0
2013-05-05 104,24,22,24,26,0
2013-05-06 104,35,47,25,23,0
2013-05-07 104,35,47,28,24,0
2013-05-15 104,36,47,30,30,0
2013-05-16 104,36,47,30,30,0
2013-05-17 104,36,47,29,30,0
2013-05-18 104,36,47,29,30,0
2013-05-19 104,36,47,29,30,0
2013-05-20 104,37,36,37,30,2
2013-05-21 104,35,33,35,27,2
2013-05-22 104,35,50,29,27,0
2013-05-23 104,33,33,30,28,0
2013-05-24 104,36,47,31,30,0
2013-05-25 104,35,46,30,26,0
2013-05-27 104,35,48,30,30,0
2013-05-28 104,36,35,37,30,2
2013-05-29 96,37,36,37,30,2
2013-05-30 96,38,37,38,30,2
2013-05-31 96,38,37,38,30,2
2013-06-02 128,46,56,38,36,2
2013-06-03 96,39,38,39,31,2No real change to cooling pump behavior around 26th (OVMS was disconnected for annual service and Parrot installation on 25th and 26th, so 27th is the first 2am that shows up).
What is interesting is that since the 28th, it has been on most of the time. Since 9pm on the 31st, 100% of the time. I reckon that at least one trigger for it is Tambient>30C, but there seem to be other triggers as well.
Slackjaw
Member
Sorry if I missed it but have you mentioned Tesla Motors' reaction to stuff like this Parrot installation? I'd love to do this. Looks amazing and the Alpine unit annoys me no end, but I'm afraid I'll be disavowed by Tesla if I start taking my car to bits like you had to. Actually I'm afraid that the car just won't work, like I'll accidentally connect the handbrake to the windscreen wiper control, or something. So for now I'm 100% enthusiastic but only 1% brave enough to try this.
Oh, but oh so awesome. Thanks for posting all the details here and inspiring the rest of us.
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