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Possible wind noise around drivers side mirror Model X Raven

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
First let me start off that the Model X is way quieter than my Model 3.

But I'm not sure if what I'm hearing is normal or not, it's fairly subtle.

If while driving I lean toward the center I cannot hear a thing on the passenger side.

It starts as low at 30 mph.

I suspect it's one of the window gaskets is not quite sealing against the glass near the bottom around the front "opera" window.

When I sit in passenger seat I hear nothing and if I lean left over the center console I still can't hear it. It's pretty subtle.

I could certainly live with it, but if it's not right I'd like to get it fixed. It's so subtle I think Tesla might balk or say they can't hear it. So I'd like to see if I can locate it myself first. I don't recall it on the overnight Demo either.

Also wanted to check if there is a common issue like this that is already known and what the resolutions were.

Thanks
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
I had the same issues with my new 2019 MX. I put in a service request and the technician recognized the issue immediately. It had something to do with the foam strip inside the door. Apparently, the proper one was not installed during manufacturing. After the fix, its perfect and there is no noise.

Was this a Mobile Tech or Service Center?
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
Interested in this. Got my raven end of may, notice the same faint almost like a whistling from driver side. Starts at low speed, and the actual level of noise stays the same during high speed.

I'm 99% sure I found it.

There is a gasket attached to the door that fills in the seam between the door and front fender. There is about a 1 foot section that has no glue and is just flopping around.

I just ordered some 3M Gasket cement and will fix it myself. Will try to take a few pictures.
 
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davezforce

IG @davezforce
Jan 18, 2017
574
280
NJ
I'm 99% sure I found it.

There is a gasket attached to the door that fills in the seam between the door and front fender. There is about a 1 foot section that has no glue and is just flopping around.

I just ordered some 3M Gasket cement and will fix it myself. Will try to take a few pictures.
If you could take a picture before and after so I can look on mine as well. Thanks.
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
If you could take a picture before and after so I can look on mine as well. Thanks.

I will.

I initially found it by looking between the door and fender and observing how uniformly the gasket looked with a flashlight (mainly how deep the gasket appeared). One side looked consistent all the way down (like 1/2 inch in). The other side clearly did not, was the same like half way down and suddenly the gasket is 1 inch in for a foot or so and then comes back.
 
I noticed whistling from the driver side mirror area while driving two days ago - good to see this thread. I checked mine this evening and found the same thing reported above: 1+ feet of gasket not attached to anything. In fact, I couldn't even tell if it had adhesive on it originally or not. What do y'all think, fix via Mobile Service visit or DIY?

EDIT: Both driver and passenger side doors have the same issue.

Tsa8t10.jpg
 
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mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
Your photo on red looks way better than mine trying to show it. The glue is completely missing on sections.

I fixed it myself. Was not fun. If I knew Mobile would do it I would have had them do it. But when you schedule most anything it does it to service center. And they might dispatch it to mobile.

I need to double check passenger side.

Also check the boots.

The boots that goes over the “pusher” arm were not installed correctly. Poor design and even poorer install on both sides.

Here is the passenger side not fixed. Total mess.

The rubber is collapsed and in the hole. The lip of it should be between the clamp and the door all the way around.

Clamp is held with one nut and an awkward hook. Not surprised they were not installed correctly. Horrible design. Reminds me of the triangle plastic that sticks out on Model 3 (also horrible design).

48835163953_30d139a19a_h_d.jpg
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
How does one get a mobile tech appt. mine always end up being at the service center. These type issues should be doable by mobile tech.

The more I look for the air leak the more other issues I find that are not quite right. And obviously wrong because the left side is different than the right.
 

davezforce

IG @davezforce
Jan 18, 2017
574
280
NJ
How does one get a mobile tech appt. mine always end up being at the service center. These type issues should be doable by mobile tech.

The more I look for the air leak the more other issues I find that are not quite right. And obviously wrong because the left side is different than the right.

I selected other and it came up with mobile option.
 

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mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
I found it !!! Damn it.

There is a rubber flap that rubs against glass on the INSIDE of the door for the entire length of the glass.

It’s not touching the glass on the drivers side for the whole length but is on passenger side.

I confirmed it by putting a towel a long that edge and pure bliss.

I knew the Window was not correct by the 2nd photo but it didn’t seem to be a problem. Notice the jog in the gasket. My passenger side has no jog. The two pieces of glass are on the same plane on passenger. This just confirms glass is not in the center of its track at the base. Showing a jog on the outside and a gap with a seal on the inside.

All it needs is a window adjustment.

Not much to see in first pic, just for reference in where to look. Make sure the rubber flap is touching the glass the full length. Just grazing it, is enough. A gap will let noise in.

48865329616_968766d5e4_b_d.jpg


48864814368_23166391d6_b_d.jpg
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
Finally, I think I fixed it myself.

I bought the 2015-2018 Model X Service Manual off E-Bay which showed how to adjust "Inboard/Outboard" adjustment which is one of the nicest setups I've ever seen for making such an adjustment. Once I saw that I thought it would be easy.

This Video was also extremely helpful in removing the Door Panel (also in the manual), but the Video made a big difference.


Turns out it was not that bottom was too far out. The problem was the top was too far in.

The rubber flap on the inside would pull away on the last inch or less of the window going up because it had to much pressure against the gasket along the top. The passenger side didn't move on the last inch.

Time to get to work.

1) Pulling the wood trim off was the easiest step.

2) Getting the rubber mat out of the door handle pocket was a challenge. I didn't want to gouge a corner with a tool. Kept trying different kinds of tape. Finally Duct Tape worked.

3) Removed the 3 bolts (I should have taken the 4th under rubber mat right then, because I forgot later)

4) Now the hardest part, eluded to in the Video. Getting that first corner started was a bitch. I pulled harder than you can imagine. After that it was easy coming off.

5) In the Video he unhooked two things and I thought they were both electrical. Turned out one was a cable. Took a little time to figure that out. Turns out you just yank it out.

6) There are 4 adjusters for top and bottom of each track. Some adjusters just didn't want to budge, I don't know why and didn't want to force it. Luckily the most critical one did adjust the best. The bottom one near the front near the speaker. It's hard to know which way to turn. I tried several turns on the first shot it was perfect. The rubber flap no longer pulled away as the window closed on the last inch. Luckily the door was still fully operational with the Door Handle Missing and all the Windows Buttons. I could use the screen from inside and the door handle from the outside to test.

7) There are lots of foil tapes over holes, applied a little haphazardly. I went over everyone, because those could leak too.

8) I broke one door panel clip. I almost didn't tackle the job because the manual said they were "use once" clips. They all seemed fine. One stayed in the door and when I went to get it out I cracked it. I decided to put one less clip in the corned that you start in. Why 3 clips in that corner I don't know.

9) Nice sound deadening foam on the back of the door panel. Found a couple spots that could be neater. Again possible leaks.

10) Door panel went back on fairly smooth.

11) Also adjusted the door striker. Door was pulling in slightly too far. Had a hard time in breaking the adjusting plate loose. Door is much better aligned now with the FWD. It was not enough to solve the issue though. I did that first.

Initial tests seem very promising. Problem is, it's raining which adds a whole new dimension of noises. Tiny bit concerned I pulled the top too far away. But it looks perfect. Planer with other glass.

BTW, I used a credit card to test if the rubber flap contacted the glass. With door fully shut and window fully up the credit card would slide along the glass with no resistance from the flap. Now I can’t get it in anywhere along the whole flap. Just like passenger side.
 
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mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
This is a nice Video someone posted in a thread unrelated to Model X.

This shows very close to what I had to do to adjust my window and points out one of the adjusting nuts.
I bet this older Model X had the same issue I did that eventually broke the top adjuster because there was to much tilt inward at the top of the glass (just a hunch).

 
I picked up a new Raven model X 12/14/2019, on the way home I noticed a whistle near the drivers mirror. The trim looks fine, the noise happens between 20 and 50 mph. I have two model S that do not have the same noise. Over all the X is very quiet and the wind sound is a faint whistle and doesn't get louder as I go faster but does go up in pitch. I tried to have the service center fix it but I'm too far away for mobile service and it would be weeks before they could give me an appointment at the service center 60 miles away.

I could hear the noise when the window was open, so I knew it wasn't the window seal. I took apart the frunk to made sure the left A pillar didn't have any space for air to blow, that didn't seem to be the problem. I could make the noise go away by putting my hand out the window in front of the left mirror while driving, so I knew it was the mirror making the noise. First I placed packing tape all around the openings on the front and bottom of the mirror housing and the noise was completely gone. I couldn't leave the ugly packing tape which prevented the mirror from being able to move but at least I knew where the noise was coming from. It seemed the noise was coming from the wind blowing through the small openings under the housing where the movable part of the mirror housing attaches to the permanent arm. I have two Tesla model S that both have the same mirror but neither make any wind noise and there isn't anything visible wrong with this mirror that would cause it make the loud whistling noise. I took off the packing tape and placed a thin line of duck tape into the space to try to stop any air from passing into the space but allowing the mirror to move normally. Amazingly, the whistling is gone and the mirror moves fine. I don't know how long the tape will work, obviously it isn't the right way to fix it, but now I can give people rides in my new Model X without being embarrassed about the whistling noise. The rest of the car is very quiet and I love it.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: davezforce

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,605
7,075
MA, NH
I picked up a new Raven model X 12/14/2019, on the way home I noticed a whistle near the drivers mirror. The trim looks fine, the noise happens between 20 and 50 mph. I have two model S that do not have the same noise. Over all the X is very quiet and the wind sound is a faint whistle and doesn't get louder as I go faster but does go up in pitch. I tried to have the service center fix it but I'm too far away for mobile service and it would be weeks before they could give me an appointment at the service center 60 miles away.

I could hear the noise when the window was open, so I knew it wasn't the window seal. I took apart the frunk to made sure the left A pillar didn't have any space for air to blow, that didn't seem to be the problem. I could make the noise go away by putting my hand out the window in front of the left mirror while driving, so I knew it was the mirror making the noise. First I placed packing tape all around the openings on the front and bottom of the mirror housing and the noise was completely gone. I couldn't leave the ugly packing tape which prevented the mirror from being able to move but at least I knew where the noise was coming from. It seemed the noise was coming from the wind blowing through the small openings under the housing where the movable part of the mirror housing attaches to the permanent arm. I have two Tesla model S that both have the same mirror but neither make any wind noise and there isn't anything visible wrong with this mirror that would cause it make the loud whistling noise. I took off the packing tape and placed a thin line of duck tape into the space to try to stop any air from passing into the space but allowing the mirror to move normally. Amazingly, the whistling is gone and the mirror moves fine. I don't know how long the tape will work, obviously it isn't the right way to fix it, but now I can give people rides in my new Model X without being embarrassed about the whistling noise. The rest of the car is very quiet and I love it.

Thanks for sharing, can you post pic of where you put the duct tape?
 
Here are some pictures of the space on the left mirror where the wind blows through and makes the whistling noise. With the tape in place there is no whistling noise at all. So far it has not prevented the mirror from folding and unfolding.

With the mirror in the normal position you can barely see the tape.
20191230_123511.jpg

With the mirror folded, you can see the black duck tape covering the chrome metal.
20191230_123537.jpg


View from under the mirror, folded.
20191230_123551.jpg

View from under the mirror, unfolded.
20191230_123617.jpg
 

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