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Discussion in 'Video' started by TEG, Aug 14, 2009.
Interesting that opening/closing the charge port door 10 times supposedly initiates some sort of a reset. Anybody know any more about this behavior and what gets reset?
I got those "Early Adopter, My Expensive Sports Car Won't Charge Blues".
That has to be really annoying, but as an engineer, and considering how complex the Roadster is, I'm surprised there haven't been a lot more of these in the first 500 cars or so. I remember the early Prius had a problem where it would just stop and not go again. One friend of mine had to have his Prius towed to the dealer twice. He still kept the car and still loves it.
The cause of this Roadster failure might be something as simple as a loose wire, or something much more serious. I hope that Tesla can take care of it quickly.
It's unfortunate, but each time something like this happens Tesla learns a little bit more about how to make the car more reliable.
My Tesla #108 recently experienced a power failure on the freeway, showing 7920 miles on the odometer and a completely full battery. The car was at the peak of acceleration up an onramp, when it lost power around 60mph; I had to coast over to the shoulder (brakes/lights/steering were ok, just no acceleration), and after cycling the key and charging port door I was able to restart the car, but it failed the same way after a couple seconds driving.
So the car went on a flatbed 75 miles to the LA Tesla store, where they opened up the PEM and found a loose connection and a pinched wire. These were evidently assembly/manufacturing defects, though it doesn't quite explain why the failure didn't happen until now, or why it failed again immediately after I reset the car. I should have the car back Sun, and we'll see how it goes.
Btw, the Tesla folks have been incredibly courteous and helpful through this process; big kudos to them.
Sorry to hear about the troubles with your Roadster and glad to hear that it was a simple fix.
An automobile is a high vibration environment. An insufficient connection (be it a solder joint, a crimp, or a connector, etc) can eventually shake loose. A pinched wire can lose it's insulation or eventually break.
A bad electrical connection is often an intermittent one.
Got my car back Mon, everything seems fine. The loose bolt and pinched wire actually were in the battery pack, not the PEM, but nice to know it was a "minor" and easily fixable problem. Now my emergency clunker can go back to gathering dust!
Thanks for the update.