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Power Trunk Retrofit on Current 3s

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That's great, thanks.

To be honest I started watching this video thinking "guy who sells an aftermarket auto trunk lift and stands to lose money by saying a OEM retrofit is possible - I have a feeling I know what his conclusion is going to be....", but he laid it out clearly and without bias.

Would never have thought that the hinges would have been changed, and if there are looms/computer changes I think this makes it almost impossible that it'll be offered by Tesla.
 
Looking at the video, at around the 1:21 mark you can see how Tesla have routed the strut power wires. They go straight through a new hole (with grommet) they've made in the bulkhead. Is there any reason people don't replicate this when fitting these aftermarket kits? Seems like it would be a lot easier than taking off the bumper, and drilling a hole there?

is it simply a case of not wanting to drill new visible holes into the car for aftermarket parts?
 
For people that have installed an auto trunk (Hansshow or Tesla Offer I guess) on a 2019 on car... the TO website suggests that the recommended method (3 of 3) to run the strut wire through the blue grommet on the right hand side of the bumper, getting access to the wire through the panel underneath the car (which is also removed when fitting the foot sensor).

I'm having trouble visualising how that works.. do you run the left strut wire underneath the trunk seal on the left, and then behind the panel where the trunk LED is in? If you're behind the trim at that point why do you need to go inside the bumper and back inside the car again at all?

Can anyone who has done it that way give any pointers / images / videos? I haven't got the kit yet, but I'm trying to plan ahead and ideally want to avoid removing the bumper if I can help it - but I also want the cleanest install, and not risking water ingress going via the lights.
 
For people that have installed an auto trunk (Hansshow or Tesla Offer I guess) on a 2019 on car... the TO website suggests that the recommended method (3 of 3) to run the strut wire through the blue grommet on the right hand side of the bumper, getting access to the wire through the panel underneath the car (which is also removed when fitting the foot sensor).

I'm having trouble visualising how that works.. do you run the left strut wire underneath the trunk seal on the left, and then behind the panel where the trunk LED is in? If you're behind the trim at that point why do you need to go inside the bumper and back inside the car again at all?

Can anyone who has done it that way give any pointers / images / videos? I haven't got the kit yet, but I'm trying to plan ahead and ideally want to avoid removing the bumper if I can help it - but I also want the cleanest install, and not risking water ingress going via the lights.
I would watch these two videos from Tesla Offer themselves showing how to install the electric trunk.
1)
2)
 
Just order it from China sent to EU.

I’ve orders the wide view Tesla mirrors from Tesla in Europe and shipped to US.

Even if you can’t get it direct from Tesla service shipped internationally there are always plenty of third parties. Try eBay.

When I had my Tesla A7 I got the German mirrors shipped to me in the US as well.
 
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At one point, I was hoping that Tesla would offer this retro-fit. However, after seeing the Tesla OEM power trunk in action on a few 2021 and 2022 M3’s, I’m not impressed with Tesla’s implementation. For one thing, it’s not very smooth, especially at the end of each movement. The trunk lid sort of “bounces” as it approaches/stops at the fully opened position, and the final closing/latching sequence is also not as refined/smooth as I would expect from an OEM.

Honestly, I think the aftermarket ones (from EVOffer and Hansshow) are more refined & smoother in operation (when installed correctly). As mentioned in another thread, I installed & have been using what I think is either the 1st or 2nd gen power trunk and frunk from Hansshow back in October 2019 and they have worked flawlessly from day one and continue to do so. Thankfully, I have not needed any product/customer support from Hansshow (sounds like they don’t have a good reputation for service/support). Regardless, I can say with absolute confidence that my 2-1/2 year old aftermarket power trunk operates smoother than what I’ve seen on recent Tesla vehicles. I’m guessing the current generation of powered trunk/frunk kits from EVOffer and Hansshow are even better/smoother than my old ones.

My other gripe with Tesla’s OEM power trunk is how they have chosen to position the weather stripping around their powered strut. I do not know if this is normal, but on the vehicles I saw with the OEM powered trunk, the weather stripping does not completely cover/hide the strut when the trunk is in the closed position. So, even when the trunk is closed, you can still see part of the strut when standing around the back of the vehicle. I’ve seen a few other threads about this issue, but not sure of the outcome (whether it is considered normal and within Tesla’s tolerance, or if it is a fit/finish defect affecting only some vehicles).

Of course, the big advantage of this Tesla supplied retro-fit is full integration into the vehicle‘s computer/UI and the 3 year warranty. This alone, will make the retro-fit a great choice for many.
For those like me who are perhaps a little more picky & critical of the functionality/smoothness (ability to also add/have a kick sensor, is one example), and accepts some of the inherent risks of (and even enjoys installing) aftermarket products, I’m glad there are other options out there. So, a hard pass for me on the Tesla powered trunk retro-fit.

Now, when Tesla offers the AMD Ryzen chip and the 4680 battery pack retro-fit, then I’m all in and will be the first in line for these retro-fits!! 🤪
I know, it’ll never happen. On the other hand, that’s what many said about the powered trunk… 🤔
 
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Does anyone know if it’s possible to retrofit 2018 model 3s with an oem power trunk ? Im assuming Tesla would tell me to just buy a new car and wouldn’t allow ordering parts if vin doesn’t match but maybe using an alternate vin ?