-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Problem with the front camber after drop
- Thread starter TonyUsa
- Start date
If you shorten the springs, you will get more negative camber. Hard to adjust on stock underpinnings. FWIW, MPP says to expect about -1.5 on the front if you lower to height they recommend with their coilovers. That much negative camber won't likely be a problem insofar as it will reduce understeer at the expense of some increased wear on the inner part of the tread. Not so sure about the amount of asymmetry, tho that probably was already there.
Good chance the alignment shop didn't even try to adjust the camber/caster on the front because they probably don't know how.
Did they tell you that nonsense line that your car only has toe adjustment?
The fact that your right front camber is almost zero means that it's very likely your left front can be adjusted to be within spec. You didn't get -1.5 on the right side, did you?
Did they tell you that nonsense line that your car only has toe adjustment?
The fact that your right front camber is almost zero means that it's very likely your left front can be adjusted to be within spec. You didn't get -1.5 on the right side, did you?
Last edited:
Oh, and while your rear toe is in spec, that's still a lot of toe from a wear and tire noise perspective. Much better to be closer to 0, like the front.
Mrcarcrazy
In need of a shrinking gun to zap a plaid with.
As someone who used to align cars for a living, TLLMRRJ is spot on. I haven’t tinkered with my Tesla, but I’ve seen many “non adjustable” cars which I could get small amounts of adjustment out of. It’s not easy some of the time... I wouldn’t assume that just because your right side is near zero, the left can be brought to normal. Unless there’s a cradle/subframe. (I haven’t taken any of the under trays off my car, so I don’t know).
I’m somewhat shocked nobody has built a camber correction kit. Hmm.
I’m somewhat shocked nobody has built a camber correction kit. Hmm.
He just say the he can not adjust the front camber.
No. The right camber was the same (-0.3).
Do you think I need to get rear toe links adjustable such as SPL toe links or the stock can make it to 0?
Rear Toe Links Tesla Model 3
From my understanding while doing an alignment the car must be in neutral, wondering why have to be in neutral? This mechanic did not put my car in neutral and I don't think he know how and he didn't even ask me. But the first mechanic that did the alignment 4 months ago for this car told that the car need to be in neutral for the alignment and he did but he moved to other shop.
You definitely DO NOT need to buy aftermarket toe links to get the rear closer to zero toe. There's tons of toe adjustment in the factory suspension for both front and rear toe.
Many shops won't do the rear toe because they don't want to bother taking off the rear under tray plastic that's around 10 fasteners. They are often super lazy like that.
The front camber is adjusted by removing the trunk lining and then loosening the bolts holding the top shock mount to the car and sliding it until the camber is correct. Your shop probably doesn't know that, or even more likely, they didn't feel like removing the trunk liner (which is easy and only about 7 or 8 fasteners).
The rear camber can also be adjusted slightly by adjusting the suspension links.
It's all in the shop manual. The hard part is getting these guys to do their job because they have figured out that, for the most part, they make the same money whether they do a simple "toe and go" on the front or spend the time to adjust everything correctly. They also know how to trick the alignment machine to produce numbers that look like they adjusted everything correctly.
For that reason, I do my own alignments now with accurate measurement tools I purchased.
Mrcarcrazy
In need of a shrinking gun to zap a plaid with.
I wouldn’t say he’s no good. He’s probably just ignorant to the Tesla. They are rather unique in how well the hide the upper shock mounts, rear toe adjustment, etc.
Thank you. Yes, we opened the Frunk lining and was going to do like what you mention as the computer alignment guided them to do but he said the shock will only be able to move about 1/2 degree so it will not be enough for -1.3 degree so we didn't do it. And I guess that he doesn't have the 13mm thin wall socket to loose the stud bolts. Do you think it be able to go below -1?
Other question, do the car need to be in neutral? If yes, why?
Last edited:
RED FLAG!
You don't need the "thin wall" socket to adjust the camber and caster. You only need that if you plan to take the shocks off without removing the top shock mount. The guy is clearly clueless.
And just because you can't get one side to match the other doesn't mean you give up. He could have easily gotten both sides to match and to both to be in spec.
The way I do my alignments, it doesn't need to be in neutral. And I even if it did for his alignment machine, I don't think that's the biggest clue that he's clueless. He's proven that in other ways.
After read the instructions (that I posted with pics) above three times. I guess I got it. Please correct me if I wrong.
So only loosen 4 bolts that mounted FUCA mount to the car body.
Do not loosen the 3 bolts that hold the shock to the car body.
PS I lowered this car myself by removed only the 3 shock bolts but never remove the FUCA mount. I guess FUCA mount have more play so the shock with the FUCA mount can move around much more than just the shock with 3 bolts.
So only loosen 4 bolts that mounted FUCA mount to the car body.
Do not loosen the 3 bolts that hold the shock to the car body.
PS I lowered this car myself by removed only the 3 shock bolts but never remove the FUCA mount. I guess FUCA mount have more play so the shock with the FUCA mount can move around much more than just the shock with 3 bolts.
Last edited:
Thank you so much for your help. I guess I will take it to other alignment shop and will report back.
So from my alignment print out all other numbers are okay right? Only need to tell them to get the rear toe as close to 0 as possible. And of course the left front camber as close to 0 as possible.
