Pulsating/Vibration 23 MYLR 65-74 MPH

[HighVoltage717]

Anyone experience pulsating like a sonicare toothbrush in the steering wheel/ car at 65+ MPH to about 80 then it goes away.

SC took apart tires, checked foam, balanced twice and road force balance. Still same.

They did extended drive and said it’s normal. Anyone else have this issue.

Have Geminis with Continentals. Thanks.

 

[SpicyPaneer]

Anyone experience pulsating like a sonicare toothbrush in the steering wheel/ car at 65+ MPH to about 80 then it goes away.

SC took apart tires, checked foam, balanced twice and road force balance. Still same.

They did extended drive and said it’s normal. Anyone else have this issue.

Have Geminis with Continentals. Thanks.

You may need a wheel balancing, go to wheel shop and get that diagnosed.

 

[Chewy13]

You may need a wheel balancing, go to wheel shop and get that diagnosed.

He said they balanced them twice and did road force balance. I guess I’d ask next is if they looked at them while they spun, to see if any of the rims were warped.

 

[SpicyPaneer]

He said they balanced them twice and did road force balance. I guess I’d ask next is if they looked at them while they spun, to see if any of the rims were warped.

Then it’s your tires, get them replace under warranty from manufacturer

 

[jcanoe]

Simple test; move the rear wheels to the front and test for the steering wheel vibration.

Check the basic stuff like the correct colored dot on the sidewall of each tire being aligned with the valve stem on the wheel.

A yellow dot indicates the lightest part of the tire. A red dot indicates the highest part of the tire.
* If both red and yellow dots are present on the tire then the red dot takes precedence.

If you have alloy wheels then align the correct dot with the valve stem on the wheel (the valve stem of an alloy wheel is the heaviest part of the wheel.)

* If both red and yellow dots are visible on the tire and there aren't any dots or marks on the wheel, red takes precedence over yellow and you should align the red dot with the valve stem. Cancelling out the high point takes precedence over the lightest point of the tire, which can be addressed with wheel weights.

Tyres explained; red dor vs yellow dot

 

[Chewy13]

Simple test; move the rear wheels to the front and test for the steering wheel vibration.

Check the basic stuff like the correct colored dot on the sidewall of each tire being aligned with the valve stem on the wheel.

A yellow dot indicates the lightest part of the tire. A red dot indicates the highest part of the tire.
* If both red and yellow dots are present on the tire then the red dot takes precedence.

If you have alloy wheels then align the correct dot with the valve stem on the wheel (the valve stem of an alloy wheel is the heaviest part of the wheel.)

* If both red and yellow dots are visible on the tire and there aren't any dots or marks on the wheel, red takes precedence over yellow and you should align the red dot with the valve stem. Cancelling out the high point takes precedence over the lightest point of the tire, which can be addressed with wheel weights.

Tyres explained; red dor vs yellow dot

I know about the dots, but even on new cars on lots - straight from the factory, I’ve never seen this followed.
I’ve never seen new tires from a tire shop come out this way either, when it’s in their best interest to do this - to reduce the amount of weights they have to put on.

I also think a tire shop might look at you funny if you insist on it. Maaaybe you’ll get someone who knows their stuff and will agree with you - but I imagine there will be a lot of ‘don’t tell me how to do my job’ feelings.

 

[T3forMe]

Anyone experience pulsating like a sonicare toothbrush in the steering wheel/ car at 65+ MPH to about 80 then it goes away.

SC took apart tires, checked foam, balanced twice and road force balance. Still same.

They did extended drive and said it’s normal. Anyone else have this issue.

Have Geminis with Continentals. Thanks.

This could be the tesla model Y lane departure warning. At speeds between 40 and 80 mph, the steering wheel will vibrate if you drift into the next lane (tire touches lane line). This feature is defeatable by changing the setting on your touch screen. See manual (could be in the safety section).

 

[jkdman123]

This could be the tesla model Y lane departure warning. At speeds between 40 and 80 mph, the steering wheel will vibrate if you drift into the next lane (tire touches lane line). This feature is defeatable by changing the setting on your touch screen. See manual (could be in the safety section).

While this MIGHT be the problem, I wouldn't characterize the vibe from the lane departure warning like a Sonicare toothbrush, which would be a much higher frequency vibe.

 

[BWJ.]

Simple test; move the rear wheels to the front and test for the steering wheel vibration.

Check the basic stuff like the correct colored dot on the sidewall of each tire being aligned with the valve stem on the wheel.

A yellow dot indicates the lightest part of the tire. A red dot indicates the highest part of the tire.
* If both red and yellow dots are present on the tire then the red dot takes precedence.

If you have alloy wheels then align the correct dot with the valve stem on the wheel (the valve stem of an alloy wheel is the heaviest part of the wheel.)

* If both red and yellow dots are visible on the tire and there aren't any dots or marks on the wheel, red takes precedence over yellow and you should align the red dot with the valve stem. Cancelling out the high point takes precedence over the lightest point of the tire, which can be addressed with wheel weights.

Tyres explained; red dor vs yellow dot

Dot indications do not apply when balancing entire wheel with road force. The indicated dots are only for displaying the condition of the tire.

 

[kaizen099]

I love how we all have become vehicle scientists since acquiring our Tesla's. Before my Tesla, I'd just "take it to the shop" and it would be fixed.

 

[Chewy13]

Dot indications do not apply when balancing entire wheel with road force. The indicated dots are only for displaying the condition of the tire.

What does this even mean? Dots displaying the condition of a tire?
Are you talking about the wear bars for minimum tread depth?

The post you're quoting, is referring to the colored dots put on by the factory, on the sidewall - to show where the tire is heavier. So you align it where the wheel is lighter; the cut out for the valve stem - so that when the wheel and tire are balanced, you're less likely to use as many weights to get the wheel and tire balanced.

 

[BWJ.]

What does this even mean? Dots displaying the condition of a tire?
Are you talking about the wear bars for minimum tread depth?

The post you're quoting, is referring to the colored dots put on by the factory, on the sidewall - to show where the tire is heavier. So you align it where the wheel is lighter; the cut out for the valve stem - so that when the wheel and tire are balanced, you're less likely to use as many weights to get the wheel and tire balanced.

We talk about colored Dot on sidewall.
Now, very few people (nobody) drive around on tires alone, that requires a rim. The dot marking says nothing about the rim's possible weight biases. The dot marking can be used as an indication for standard balancing, but for road force balancing the Dots are almost never at the valve.

 

[WheresMyKeys]

I had an issue very similar to this on my previous car. Eventually I gave up - determining it was most likely a wheel itself had a slight bend.

Do try to swap wheels front to back and see if it improves or if the vibration changes in feel. If you were feeling it in the wheel and that gets better but you start feeling it in your butt / feet it's tied to the wheel / tire assembly that went from the front to the rear.

I changed tires, re balanced, road force balanced, alignment, everything short of just throwing parts at it and the only thing that helped (but didn't get rid of it completely) was keeping what I think was ultimately a bad rim on the rear axle. In my case, my winter set was also improved vs the summer set. But the dealer refused to accept wheel as a possible issue and swap it out and I refused to buy one so it forever lived on the back of the car (until I traded it in).

That said, if you're feeling something like the electric motors tugging at the wheel vs a driveline vibration I think you have a different problem.