Rear Control Arm Replacement

[dmd4343]

Hi all,

My buddy has a 2019 Model 3 and he has noticed squeaks/clunks coming from the rear drivers side. Even when parked, we can sometimes hear the noise by pushing down on the trunk or car body. When we had the tire off to clean the brakes, we noticed the part in the pictures I linked isn't centered like the other suspension parts are.

The part number is (P)1044427-00-C and is the Rear Upper Front Position Control Arm. We did see some older discussion online that it should be centered and can cause the noise when it is not. Unfortunately, my friend's warranty is up and, from what we have seen online, it can cost $1,000 to $2,000 to replace this at the Tesla Service Center. Plus our closest Service Center said it has a 39 week wait.

We are somewhat mechanically inclined (replace brakes, batteries, etc) and have the tools, but neither of us have dealt with suspension parts before. We reviewed the Tesla online service manual and it indicates that, after installing the new control arm but before tightening the bolts to torque spec that you should compress the rear coil spring. Is this step actually necessary?

We watched videos for replacing the rear control arms on other vehicles and none of them compress the springs so we're wondering if anyone has come across this and worked on it themselves.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dangerous Fish]

Not all arms need to be torqued with the car on the ground/springs compressed, but it's important to follow the service manual for the ones that do, otherwise the bush will be loaded up at rest which will just lead to it failing prematurely.

As you can see from the service manual, it's a very easy job apart from that last step. You may be able to get to it to torque it with the car on the ground or on low ramps if you don't have the tools to compress the spring with the wheel off.

Can't see how Tesla would charge $1000+ for that job though. Less than 1 hour's work and the part is probably around $100.

 

[dmd4343]

Thank you, that makes sense. We'll check if we have access to torque the bolts when it's on the ground

 

[The Other Dan]

Thank you, that makes sense. We'll check if we have access to torque the bolts when it's on the ground

No, don't do that....
when it's still on jack stands, put a jack under the upright and jack it up. You may lift it off the closest jackstand a bit, but thats OK. With the upright jacked up, then tighten and torque it down.

 

[dsgerbc]

No, don't do that....
when it's still on jack stands, put a jack under the upright and jack it up. You may lift it off the closest jackstand a bit, but thats OK. With the upright jacked up, then tighten and torque it down.

If doing this, undo the swaybar linkage as well to get that spring compressed a bit more before the car lifts off the jackstand.

You won't get it to compress all the way to the proper ride height this way, but it's probably a reasonable compromise between following the service manual and a reasonable amount of effort.

If you have some blocks of wood laying around, see if you can see how many you can stuff under the rear lower control arm with the car on the ground, then jack up, replace the link, and then lower back on those stacked blocks and tighten.

I highly doubt anyone can reach those bolts with the car on the ground (or even up on wheel ramps).