creaking @slow speed /turning after upper control arms replaced

[Jesla Fett]

I understand this topic has been discussed quite a bit over the years so don’t beat me up too much, but I am curious y’all’s thoughts on my best course of action given my circumstance.

just bought a used 20M3P from a Hyundai dealership in Huntington Beach and within a day, I had the creaking at slow speeds and turning…
(80k miles, just under 4 years old)

dealer has said it isn’t a safety concern so nothing they will do, despite Tesla Service saying someone clearly greased/lubed the control arms to mitigate the sound..
(Also to note, a day after taking delivery, driver side headlight DRL inop and rear passenger seatbelt issue/OCS per the notifications)

dealer replaced my headlight and has so far balked on the seatbelt/ocs issue stating they couldn’t duplicate despite the notification popping up ever day…

anyhow,
Tesla replaced the Upper Control Arms, stated all is working as designed, yet still creaking .

my question is this:
doesn’t appear they replaced the ball joints nor ‘filled them’ so should I just buy the gear and pump grease into the ball joints or will that be futile if it’s the lower compliance and lateral links making the noise?

or should I purchase the lateral and compliance links aftermarket and look for a private mechanic to replaced them?

along with what I think is the sway bar links due to slight metallic rattles overs bumpy roads…

that said, any mechanics in SoCal (LA to OC)
that might wanna do the job?

thoughts, as I’m not willing to go back to Tesla and drop $1500 before I’ve made my first payment on the car?

and thank you for y’all’s time.

Coming from a decade back when I was all over the e93post forums with an 07 bmw 335i, so I love it here…

 

[N54TT]

I understand this topic has been discussed quite a bit over the years so don’t beat me up too much, but I am curious y’all’s thoughts on my best course of action given my circumstance.

just bought a used 20M3P from a Hyundai dealership in Huntington Beach and within a day, I had the creaking at slow speeds and turning…
(80k miles, just under 4 years old)

dealer has said it isn’t a safety concern so nothing they will do, despite Tesla Service saying someone clearly greased/lubed the control arms to mitigate the sound..
(Also to note, a day after taking delivery, driver side headlight DRL inop and rear passenger seatbelt issue/OCS per the notifications)

dealer replaced my headlight and has so far balked on the seatbelt/ocs issue stating they couldn’t duplicate despite the notification popping up ever day…

anyhow,
Tesla replaced the Upper Control Arms, stated all is working as designed, yet still creaking .

my question is this:
doesn’t appear they replaced the ball joints nor ‘filled them’ so should I just buy the gear and pump grease into the ball joints or will that be futile if it’s the lower compliance and lateral links making the noise?

or should I purchase the lateral and compliance links aftermarket and look for a private mechanic to replaced them?

along with what I think is the sway bar links due to slight metallic rattles overs bumpy roads…

that said, any mechanics in SoCal (LA to OC)
that might wanna do the job?

thoughts, as I’m not willing to go back to Tesla and drop $1500 before I’ve made my first payment on the car?

and thank you for y’all’s time.

Coming from a decade back when I was all over the e93post forums with an 07 bmw 335i, so I love it here…

If they replaced your upper control arm, you have a brand new ball joint. Presuming they installed a new control arm lol…..there’s no need to inject grease. Sounds like the creaking you heard wasn’t from the upper control arm….or not the only thing creaking.

BTW I had a manual e90…welcome to TMC!

 

[canasion35]

Could you describe the creaking to the best of your ability? Could be the LCA bushings too - might be worth spraying some white lithium grease on them to see if it quiets them down some.

 

[Jesla Fett]

If they replaced your upper control arm, you have a brand new ball joint. Presuming they installed a new control arm lol…..there’s no need to inject grease. Sounds like the creaking you heard wasn’t from the upper control arm….or not the only thing creaking.

BTW I had a manual e90…welcome to TMC!

Thanks brother, had one of the 1st 335s on the east coast and adored that car.
haven’t fallen in love with a car till this M3P..

Anyhow, yes, I finally took a look myself the other night and the boot looked brand new, pushed on the fender and dialed squeaking to the lower area…

next question is to go aftermarket parts or oem which costs over $1300 (with the Sway bar links)…

And then the next step might be finding a decent mechanic as I don’t quite trust myself with suspension parts

 

[Jesla Fett]

Could you describe the creaking to the best of your ability? Could be the LCA bushings too - might be worth spraying some white lithium grease on them to see if it quiets them down some.

Yea it could be or the bolts/joiners, but I don’t know specifically without lifting it and having someone nearby to pinpoint.

Gonna try the lithium route first,
Maybe even inject the lower boots, then move on to replacement option last.

As for describing the creak, it’s the same as so many threads here at low speeds or at a standstill when you turn the steering wheel, either to pull out of a parking spot or a three-point it sounds like an old rust bucket truck, creaking.
I don’t know that it’s necessarily a safety concern unless it spends many years or thousands of miles doing it but again, I’m not certain.

Still hoping to find a fair mechanic that I can come back to often in the southern California area if anyone happens to know someone.

 

[eevee-fan]

 

[afadeev]

just bought a used 20M3P from a Hyundai dealership in Huntington Beach and within a day, I had the creaking at slow speeds and turning…
(80k miles, just under 4 years old)

Wow - congrats, I guess?
You are braver than I am, buying an out-of-warranty Model 3 with 80K miles and no service history!

Tesla replaced the Upper Control Arms, stated all is working as designed, yet still creaking .

Most likely - something else in suspension is creaking. It's full of links with rubber bushings and flimsy bearings.
In addition to the front upper control arms (aka FUCA) they replaced (known ~40K mile wear item), there is the lower trailing link, lower lateral/front link, and sway bar link.
Then there are the shocks (all but dead at 80K miles), and upper camber plate (some vendors call it top-hat).
At 80K miles, all rubber components on the 4,200+ lbs vehicles are liable to be ready for a replacement.

Model 3 Service Manual | Tesla

service.tesla.com

doesn’t appear they replaced the ball joints nor ‘filled them’ so should I just buy the gear and pump grease into the ball joints or will that be futile if it’s the lower compliance and lateral links making the noise?

The ball joints get replaced together with FUCA.
You only fill them with grease if you are trying to sell the car to the next guy, and want to temporarily quiet the squeaks until the sale goes through!

or should I purchase the lateral and compliance links aftermarket and look for a private mechanic to replaced them?
along with what I think is the sway bar links due to slight metallic rattles overs bumpy roads…

Anyone can replace those, including yourself. Very straight forward job.
Any reputable independent mechanic will do a better job than Tesla SC. And if you will be using aftermarket parts (shocks, etc), and independent wrench is the only way to get them installed.

thoughts, as I’m not willing to go back to Tesla and drop $1500 before I’ve made my first payment on the car?

Sorry, but if you had listened to Tesla shills who claim these cars have zero maintenance, this is the moment you get to realize you've been had.

Model 3's are fun cars, but they are neither inexpensive to maintain, nor maintenance free. At 80K miles, you are looking at replacing the bulk of the suspension pieces. Either one at a time (and pay for an alignment after each job), or all at once (and pay for just one alignment). It's up to you.

Coming from a decade back when I was all over the e93post forums with an 07 bmw 335i, so I love it here…

If you are a car guy, then consider upgrading shocks and springs "while you are in there" as well.
I went with Ohlins, and they've transformed the car. But there are a few other quality options out there as well, like KW. There are also less reputable alternatives for a bit less.

HTH,
a

 

[69KWH]

I just ignore all the creaks and rattles. Chances are if I try to get any of it "fixed" under warranty, the service center will half-ass it or break something else in the process. I'll probably be fine for the next 100k miles and if not, it's new car shopping season

 

[Jesla Fett]

Good stuff, thank

Wow - congrats, I guess?
You are braver than I am, buying an out-of-warranty Model 3 with 80K miles and no service history!



Most likely - something else in suspension is creaking. It's full of links with rubber bushings and flimsy bearings.
In addition to the front upper control arms (aka FUCA) they replaced (known ~40K mile wear item), there is the lower trailing link, lower lateral/front link, and sway bar link.
Then there are the shocks (all but dead at 80K miles), and upper camber plate (some vendors call it top-hat).
At 80K miles, all rubber components on the 4,200+ lbs vehicles are liable to be ready for a replacement.

View attachment 1047203

Model 3 Service Manual | Tesla

service.tesla.com

The ball joints get replaced together with FUCA.
You only fill them with grease if you are trying to sell the car to the next guy, and want to temporarily quiet the squeaks until the sale goes through!



Anyone can replace those, including yourself. Very straight forward job.
Any reputable independent mechanic will do a better job than Tesla SC. And if you will be using aftermarket parts (shocks, etc), and independent wrench is the only way to get them installed.



Sorry, but if you had listened to Tesla shills who claim these cars have zero maintenance, this is the moment you get to realize you've been had.

Model 3's are fun cars, but they are neither inexpensive to maintain, nor maintenance free. At 80K miles, you are looking at replacing the bulk of the suspension pieces. Either one at a time (and pay for an alignment after each job), or all at once (and pay for just one alignment). It's up to you.



If you are a car guy, then consider upgrading shocks and springs "while you are in there" as well.
I went with Ohlins, and they've transformed the car. But there are a few other quality options out there as well, like KW. There are also less reputable alternatives for a bit less.

HTH,
a

all great stuff, thank you and yes, fairly sure I’m looking at replacing the lower lateral and compliance links, as well as the sway bar links for the metallic rattle over bumps…

as for shocks, gonna have to wait as these are far outta my budget for now and tbh, all else feels pretty great on the suspension front, especially on shitty LA streets (I also Uber )…

I’d love to replace all that and know I could, but I also know I may not torque things correctly as I have basic tools, and of course the alignment would need to be done professionally as well.
for now, on the hunt for a decently priced and Tesla savvy mechanic.

Thank you for taking the time and energy in you comment.

 

[eevee-fan]

So it looks like every 50K miles = new tires + new control arms.

 

[afadeev]

So it looks like every 50K miles = new tires + new control arms.

New tires are once / year for me, or ~12K miles (with smiles).
I'm sure many can drag the tire life out longer with shittier tires and carrying less speed through the turns, but what's the fun in that?
I'm also sure someone has more fun with their TM3P's than me, and marvels at my tire longevity...


FUCAs?
Yeah, the rubber boots protecting ball joints are exposed to road debris, sitting right on top of the tire. No big surprise, they will get degraded and eventually punctured. Then the water gets in, ball joint starts to rust, and it's game over. You can prolong the inevitable by injecting grease, but the end result will still be the same.

It's all cost of living with a Model 3.
Good luck finding that in a Tesla manual, or in Tesla's 100K mile "zero cost of maintenance" claims:

Four of the Five Least Expensive Car Brands to Maintain Are American - Consumer Reports

In this look at the cost of car ownership, CR reveals the difference in maintenance and repair costs among 29 car brands at 5 and 10 years of ownership, based on member data.

www.consumerreports.org

a

 

[eevee-fan]

New tires are once / year for me, or ~12K miles (with smiles).
I'm sure many can drag the tire life out longer with shittier tires and carrying less speed through the turns, but what's the fun in that?
I'm also sure someone has more fun with their TM3P's than me, and marvels at my tire longevity...


FUCAs?
Yeah, the rubber boots protecting ball joints are exposed to road debris, sitting right on top of the tire. No big surprise, they will get degraded and eventually punctured. Then the water gets in, ball joint starts to rust, and it's game over. You can prolong the inevitable by injecting grease, but the end result will still be the same.

It's all cost of living with a Model 3.
Good luck finding that in a Tesla manual, or in Tesla's 100K mile "zero cost of maintenance" claims:

Four of the Five Least Expensive Car Brands to Maintain Are American - Consumer Reports

In this look at the cost of car ownership, CR reveals the difference in maintenance and repair costs among 29 car brands at 5 and 10 years of ownership, based on member data.

www.consumerreports.org

a

12k miles per tire change. Don't even have to worry about tire rotation...

I can see why Hertz is getting out of renting EVs. LOL