Rear Hatch Latching Problem (Model S)

Yes, it's well covered and confirmed that it's $200 per visit. Even says so in the contract.

They're fixing it today, so I can't answer that yet.

 

Really? Did did they change the wording of the contract?

 

I asked them how they did it, but the tech who worked on my car was out the next day. The service adviser said they go in through the back (duh!) and pull the emergency release. I told him I tried that and it was jammed, and then he said they just remove the trim panels from the inside. I don't know how accurate that is or just a guess, but he confirmed that they didn't cut or break anything and definitely didn't use a "sawzall" method.

The strange thing is that they upgraded my faulty door handle with the latest "Version 3" handle, which he said required a bit of re-wiring and I'd lose the carbon fiber vinyl wrap I put on all the handles. But when I went to pick it up, the CF wrap was still there. So I wonder if they replaced the whole module and also swapped in my existing handle.. or if they did something else entirely to the existing unit to fix it and didn't replace it.

 

The actual handle part comes off separate from the rest of the module, so they just used the old one on the new module.

In some cases, it has been reported the emergency release works but most of the time it doesn't. There is NO way to remove the trim panels with the hatch shut without cutting them.

 

Guys, excuse my ignorance on this subject, however does the model S rear truck latch have a motor that actually drives the locking mechanism shut? I've noticed on ocassion that after the truck has closed, there's a sound much like a motor that I assume is driving the locking mechanism shut? Sometimes it works, other times not, which is why I believe dust is infiltrating into the car.

Please advise.
Thanks, Citation

 

Yes, that is the “chinching” motor that’s known to go bad. You might want to get it checked out before it fails completely.

 

I just had the cinch motor replaced last week under warranty. You could hear the motor working but the cable was still loose when you looked inside (pull the plastic handles out to take a peek).

 

Hi There - I'm a new member on this club and have the same issue with my 2015 90D - the manual rear boot won't latch. The bolt enters the mechanism but the latch doesn't trigger so it stays open. As you say it bounces a little going over bumps but is driveable - just not lockabable. You mention you fixed it yourself once - what parts did you order as I would like to do the same? Many thanks for your help
Mark

 

I can look up the invoice if I remember. Putting back the large trim piece for the hatch is no picnic by the way.

Check out this possible solution though.
Trunk Latch Problem

 

Thanks for the pointer Brass Guy - that trick worked and it's reset and now works - amazing - I suspect lots of Tesla customers would have spend 100's of £/$ getting the mechanism replaced without knowing this little gem
Many thanks

 

You're welcome. Thanks for posting your results. I haven't had the problem since the last replacement, so haven't had the opportunity to test that procedure. I doubt the service technicians know about it.

 

My rear latch cinching motor broke again. Another $200 deductible.

Have to wait two weeks for a mobile service repair.

 

Audi just unveiled their eTron GT RS, coming to the USA this summer. If the trunk opening is big enough, I'm in. If not, awaiting the Taycan Sport Tourismo. Wife not willing to move somewhere with garage large enough to keep a Taycan and a Hummer EV.

 

Does anyone know what the parts/labor warranty is on ESA repairs?
Since I just had the cinching motor fixed at a SC in Sep/2019, I'm wondering if it might still be covered if there's a two-year repair warranty.